curtis_leblanc

<p>Thanks for the feedback y'all! </p>

<p>When I went to photo school I brought my own chemicals for that very reason. Well It still clears a negative test strip in under 20 seconds which indicates it is still very strong. I just mixed 4 litres of fresh fixer before this happened, and the 500ml of developer was just used to develop 2 rolls of 120. I understand that crossing chemicals will weaken or kill the solution, but the fixer is not exhausted... Just to be sure I would dump it either way, but my question is out of curiosity. Would developer mixed into fix (that is not exhausted) have any effects on the film?</p>

<p>Hello<br> I accidentally added 500ml of extol to 4 litres of fixer stock. Its been a long time since I have done something so silly and I can't remember if it will cause me problems. I did a test strip in the fix and it cleared the emulsion from the film, but will the added developer damage the film in any way? <br> Thank you </p>

<p>shot raw and cooked in LR. Just brought the highlights back a bit and added contrast </p>

<p>Hey all<br /> Wondering if anyone knows anything about having lens haze cleaned out from a fuji gsw690ii? I wouldn't be doing it myself but my Hassy/Rollie/Lieca repair man voiced concern about scratching the inside by cleaning it. The front and rear elements are coated with all sorts of lovely things to prevent scratches but all the elements in between can sometimes be really soft. Soft lens elements were pretty normal in older lenses but these fujis are a pretty new in comparison. The haze is minimal but the cost of cleaning is being covered by the seller off ebay. The haze is located in between the front and second element so its not invasive surgery. The front element seems super thin also.<br /> I am wondering is has anyone had this or another gw or gsw lens pulled apart for cleaning? and what was the result? Better yet does anyone know how tough the inner elements are against scratching? <br /> To clean or not to clean? that is my question?</p>

<p>Thanks for the input </p>

<p><a href="/photodb/member-photos?user_id=8262627">http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=8262627</a> example photos 1,2,3</p><div></div>

<p>Hey all<br> I know this question has come up here a few times but I haven't heard of any solutions besides getting a new one.... has anyone had the lens repaired with success and at what cost $$? I have been shooting with the lens for work and personal for over 6 months under every setting possible. I know the lenses good and bad characteristics like soft corners (until you stop down) and distortion and thats just one of its normal characteristics. Its never been dropped but it does get banged around and is really well used while I'm shooting weddings. I started to notice it now that I'm using to shoot landscapes on a tripod at its optimum apertures (5.6-11). Basically besides the centre the rest is sub par... even when the image was shot at 24mm 100 iso f8 and 250th of a second on a tripod. I know wide angles have bowed curvature of field and is this lens just especially bad? the there just good and bad generations of this lens? i would think even a large amount of field curvature would go away by f8.. bottom line is there anything wrong? is there a fix? links and suggestions would be great<br> Cheers<br> Curt</p>

<p>Hey everyone<br /> I just picked up a Voigtlander r2a and 35mm f2.5 color-skopar on CL. I have shot about 5 rolls on the camera and I'm getting great sharp and in focus results from minimum focus distend till about 5 to 10 meter. After about 5 to 10 meters I'm getting really soft results even when stopping down to f8 and 11. After the first few rolls I thought I was missing focus but after a few more rolls I'm thinking there is something wrong but I have found no post relating to this issue. I check the rangefinder alignment and it seems perfect from .7 of a meter till about 10-20 meter where it pretty much hits infinity focus. It seems like the after about 15-20 meters the rangefinder hits infinity is this normal with a 35mm lens? I shot a bunch of buildings with the focus set to infinity and f8 and I got soft results (the images look front or rear focused)</p>

<p>I always use a thermometer to check my chemicals and rinse but my house is old and the taps fluctuate in temperature. I was told that the rinse temperature was not super important so I haven't been keeping the closes eye on it recently. I usually run everything at 20C. Ill keep a closer eye on it from now on. <br> Now that I'm thinking back it might have been the pre wash water being to hot... either way I won't be making that mistake again. <br> Both rolls were subject to the exact some development and washed together. Stored in the fridge but the 35 was sitting in my hot car for a day... both shot and developed on the same day. <br> I usually shoot Delta or hp5(120) and tmax or Delta(35) developed in d76 but I felt like changing things up and shooting HP4 and HP5 developing in Ilford chemicals. I'm still figuring out my go to bw films and developers<br> Might switch up my developer to Xtol and see how that goes </p> <p>Thanks for the thoughtful responses</p>

<p>I know there has been some discussions about his in the past and I'm hoping there is a quick answer now. I just developed two rolls of hp5 in the same tank, one was 120 and the other 35. I just finished scanning the 35mm roll and it not very sharp and has the worst grain! I love grain but this is bad. the 120 looks fine as always. I shoot hp5 all the time and always get good results. </p> <p>Did I just get a lemon? are there film lemons? the film is new not expired or anything<br> But the 35mm looks not so great. it looks like cracks in dry mud or a dried up lake... not little circular dye clouds<br> I think this could also just be a scanner issue because one of the shots from the 35 looks fine (grainy but good grainy) <br> I tried re scanning at different resolutions and with or without sharpening (Epson v700)</p> <p>*I used ilfasol 3 developer and recommended time and temperature *</p> <p>The only thing I can think of is that I washed it for longer than usual (I read here that is a possible cause) and I used hotter than usual water during the wash. I also agitated a little harder than usual (still not very hard though) I have done all three of those things before and avoided these results. </p> <p>Thanks!</p><div></div>