michael_hanisch

Hi,<br>

I own the Mk II model of this lens. Mine doesn't have a tripod collar, but so far I haven't found any need for it. I even use it for hand-held shots on my Elan 7 (EOS 30); the whole setup feels fairly balanced and stable. In other words: No need to worry about it <tt>:-)</tt>

<br>

Hope this helps,<br>

Michael.

Here's a link to <a href="http://www.barbeephoto.com/using_split_neutral_density.htm">an article on using split ND filters</a> that you might find helpful. (Havent't tried the instructions given there myself; the link had been posted in one of these forums a couple of months ago.)

Just for the record, since the AF light was annoying me as well: there is a custom function to turn it of. I did, and I haven't missed it ever, even in dim light.<p>

But as others said, you probably have little need to upgrade your camera body...

Thanks Richard, and also thanks to Henning (who sent me an email).

 

I will follow your suggestions and try the aperture/shutter combinations Richard mentioned. If they let me, I'll also run a roll of film through it, just to be sure everything works as it should.

I'm currently pondering about whether or not I should buy a Rolleiflex

3.5F (Planar).

 

I've seen one in pretty good shape (lenses OK, only some scratches on

the bottom of the body, all speeds seem to be working well AFAICT)

which -according to the guy in the camera shop - has been CLA'ed

recently, and for a good price (EUR 459).

 

The only thing that worries me is that the shutter speed dial is

somewhat sticky, you can turn it but not as easily as it should be -

but only when you turn it in one direction (towards slower speeds),

turning it in the other direction works just fine. In addition, I

can't seem to move the dial to the "green" section - 2 seconds is the

slowest one I can see. (Not a big problem as I realize that this is

just the "bulb" setting, though...)

 

I guess what I'm asking is:

Does the issue with the shutter speed dial indicate a more serious

problem, or could it be fixed with some oil? (Can I do that myself?)

I'm just curious, since the camera seems to have been cleaned only

recently, so I don't understand why they didn't bother fixing this -

hence I suspect that it might be a bigger problem...)

 

In addition: Is this a fair price on the German market, considering

that it does include no extras (lense shade, lens cap etc.)?

 

Thanks for any help with my dilemma...

<b>Minilab (Konica) - C-41, b/w, E-6</b><br>

Flash Foto<br>

Hohenzollernstrasse 90<br>

80796 München<br>

Tel. (++ 49 89) 30778832<br>

Decent minilab, pewtty fast; Konica paper only<br>

Hi,<br>

this is probably a dumb question, but I couldn't find a good

explanation in the Administration and Forums categories of this

forum, so here I go...

<p>

I often see a quite interesting and useful thread in the General (Not

archived) forum, a thread which could clearly serve as a reference for

other people who will ask the same question again later. One example

is <a

href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005W4Z&unified_p=1">Copy

Photography on Location</a> - pretty useful and interesting stuff IMO.

This is one example of a thread which I believe is worth keeping

around...</p>

<p>Now obviously, sending an email to the forum Moderator saying "Hey,

please don't delete this" is surely not a scalable procedure for this

kind of thing, especially since you'd probably want similar requests

from other people before you consider keeping this thread from

expiring.<br>

So my question is: What is the proper way to do this? Is there any? Or

is it just taken for granted that threads in that forum will be of the

"here today, gone tomorrow" variety?</p>

Raymond,<br>

when you use your ISO200 film rated as 100 ISO, you don't need to compensate - just change the ISO setting to 100. (Not sure if this is possible with the Rebel 2000; as an alternative, you can also set the exposure compensation to +1.) Also, the film should be processed normally, i.e. no push/pull.

Probably depends on the film...<br>

There have been quite a few posts on this topic, on "rating" films at different speeds and finding your personal exposure index. Try a google search for <tt>site:photo.net rating EI color</tt> and read what it turns up... For example, you'll find a good explanation by Scott Eaton in <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001x3Q">this thread</a>.<br>Hope this helps,<br>

Hmm, I haven't heard any new announcements, but there already is an auto-focus camera by Rollei - the <a href="http://www.rollei.de/en/produkte/produkt_detail.cfm?id=2243&name=medium">6008 AF</a>; there has also been <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001kNJ">a thread on this camera</a> in this forum.<p>

Is this the camera you've heard about, or have there been any new announcements (new model, etc.)?

Thanks for the warning, Douglas. I guess I'll stick to my new battery and maybe replace the fuse in the old one w/ a medium-acting, 1A fuse as well. Funny that I only found out about this by accident... I wonder if the previous owner ever knew...

Hi there,<br>

I recently bought a spare (used) battery for my Rollei 6008

professional. I should have looked more closely, but when I compared

it to the battery that came with my (also used) camera, I noticed a

difference:

<p>The old battery is labelled "T 1.25A slow acting", while the new

one says "M 1A medium acting".<br>

"Too bad, you bought the wrong battery," I thought... But after

checking the manual I realized that the "medium acting", 1 Ampere

battery is in fact the correct one!</p>

<p>So the question I'm asking is: To which kind of camera does the old

battery belong? And if I use it in my 6008 professional, do I risk any

damage to the camera?</p>

<small>(The answer to the last question is probably obvious, but I

have to admit that I don't really tell the difference between "medium"

and "slow" acting fuses...)</small><br>

Thanks in advance for your replies!

Have a look and/or search the other threads on this site, they contain a lot of useful info. For example, check <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005AW9">Agfa Ultra 100 vs Kodak Portra 400 UC?</a> and <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004MwQ">New Agfa Ultra Color 100 Print Film</a>. There have been a couple of other threads in the general forum, but I guess they've all expired...

<p>That being said - I like the film. It's great fun on days with flat light (helps to bring out colors in textures), and whenever you need that extra bit of color. Contrary to what others have said, I don't think that Ultra 100 is very grainy, but then again I haven't tried Kodak's Portra 400UC (yet).</p>

Hope this helps,

Yes, that's correct - the camera will use the Speedlight's "red beam" as a focussing aid. BTW, I also found the Elan's built-in "focus assist" (read: popup flash) annoying, but fortunately there is a custom function that disables it. So far, I haven't noticed any real focussing problems even at lower light levels even without any focus assist light (using fairly fast primes).

If the missing tripod bracket is your only concern, then just go ahead and buy it. I own the Type II version of that lens, and never felt the need for a tripod bracket - the lens is still light enough and seems to be pretty well balanced, whether handhold or on a tripod, even though my camera (Elan7) is pretty light. Bottom line: don't worry to much, most likely you won't really need the tripod bracket at all.

Thanks for sharing this - I'll give it a try as soon as I got my scanner...

There's also some info on the <a href="http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Village/3762/Rollei/index.html">Rollei FAQ site</a>; there's also <a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/rolleislr.html">a table giving an overview of the features</a> of the 600x cameras

Hi Cindy,<br>

I own a Canon G1, a camera for which there are several adapters available. I use one with a 49mm thread size, so availability of filters is no problem.<p>

Usually I always leave a UV filter on the lens for protection, sometimes I use a circular polarizer, though I have to admit it can be hard to adjust the polarizer correctly if you can only use the LCD monitor. (I find it much easier to do on a SLR, the "electronic viewfinder" can make it hard to see the effects of polarization.) If you're doing a lot of landscape work, you should get some grad. ND-filters to lower the contrast of some scenes.<p>

Other than that, I think you won't need any color correction etc. filters on a digital camera, since you can as well adjust the image on your computer.<br>Hope this helps,<br>

A different (and probably easier) way to achieve this is called "emulsion transfer" - basically, you take the emulsion of a polaroid image and stick it somewhere... You can find more info on this if you <a href="http://www.photo.net/search/query-by-example?sections=bboard&table_name=bboard&the_key=000sxy&subject=Polaroid%20Emulsion%20Transfers">search this site for "emulsion transfer"</a>. <p>

Of course, this process is less flexible since you're restricted to making images on Polaroid film.

Also note that the "annoying flashing white light" of the Elan 7 can be disabled by using some custom function (forgot which one, sorry). I'm never using the focus assist flash and hardly ever experienced any problems with focusing in low light, provided I'm using a reasonably fast lens.

I think the easiest way to do this would be to just write a small program that opens each file, and moves it to folder A or folder B, depending if (width > height) or the other way around. Unfortunately, I don't know if such a program already exists; if not, it should be rather straightforward to do. Which platform (OS) and other software do you use?