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dxin

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Posts posted by dxin

  1. <p>For the IR part, yes, but only a little bit of short wave IR, or, near IR.<br>

    For the thermal part, no. You'll need multiply sensors to capture light of different wavelengths. It's the spectrum that carries temperature information, not strength. <br>

    For the see through clothing, yes but with limitations. There must be a lot of available IR light to create strong IR reflection, a sunny noon will be best. And the target has to be very reflective, and the material of clothes also matters.<br>

    Above, my motorcycle.<br>

    Middle, my motorcycle and my t-shirt.<br>

    Bottom, my motorcycle, t-shirt, cellphone and IR filter.</p><div>00cnBo-550747784.thumb.jpg.176a527e1c3768addd604fd2670d0527.jpg</div>

  2. <p>Hi, Laurie,<br>

    I checked the website, very useful, although little luck, but I'll keep on looking for some other options.<br>

    <br />Lex,<br>

    VGA camera seems to be attractive. But I think I prefer phone with more recent sensor technologies and some basic smart features.</p>

    <p>Wouter,<br>

    Yes, I saw the ONE, and ONE MINI. Even though there's a MINI version, it's still too big to me.</p>

    <p>Thanks everyone.</p>

  3. <p>Hi, guys.</p>

    <p>As a long time photography enthusiastic, I'm very NOT interested in most of those camera phones with tiny pixels.<br>

    I'm very satisfied with the 3.2MP camera on the Pantech P8000 that I've been using for two years.<br>

    I'm looking for a new phone with similar features: low MP, small in physical size, and QWERTY keyboard would be a plus.<br>

    Any inputs?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Dehuan</p>

     

  4. <p>Many cameras can do 50MB/s through USB 2.0, which is about 2-3 20MP full size RAW images per second.<br>

    Connect to a computer with Nikon Camera Control Pro 2, my Nikon D60 shoots infinitely at 3.5 fps. Note that D60 only shoots a 5 burst with the fastest SD card.<br>

    <br />Just some interesting off topic facts.</p>

  5. <p>The pitfall of buying a computer is that, the basic configuration is incredibly low priced to catch your attention, but the upgrade features raise the price sky high.<br>

    This is the computer I just bought, or semi-built. You can see in the list that adding 8GB DDR3 to the second DIMM costs $550. That's insane! <br>

    http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/servers/thinkserver/towers/ts140/<br>

    <br />So, I decided to only order the E3 1245 processor, mainboard, and case from Lenovo. And I bought 2 1TB enterprise class HDD and 4 8GB ECC DDR3 from other sources.<br>

    In this way, I got Lenovo warranty, top end enterprise class components that fits my need, within around $1100. I can't ask for more.<br>

    --------------------------------<br>

    If you have symmetrical multi displays, using a graphics card like nVidia NVS might be a good idea.</p>

  6. <p>I know that a flash meter is a good tool to determine the amount of exposure.<br>

    But ultimately we always judge the exposure perceptually. However we adjust exposure, before taking the picture or during post processing, we do whatever we can to make the picture <em><strong>look good</strong></em>.<br>

    <br />Here is a picture I took. The meter measures a F4.5. I adjusted the camera to F2.8 and the picture looks good on the camera's screen. But when I loaded it to my computer, I still found it a little dark.<br>

    Then I post processed it to +0.7EV to make it look good on the computer, but at the same time it looks over exposed on the camera.<br>

    <strong>My question is, what does the correct exposure look like?</strong> A quick answer might be, <em>which of the following pictures you think looks better?</em><br>

    How do you determine the total brightness of the picture? Meter? Histogram? What if the it looks perfect on the meter and histogram but the picture is just a little bit darker/brighter than you want it to be?<br /><br>

    Any input will be helpful. Thank you.<br /><br>

    <br>

    <img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/ulh3p.jpg" alt="" width="698" height="471" /></p>

    <p><img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/8fusz.jpg" alt="" width="696" height="460" /></p>

  7. <p>Late version of Tamron 28-75 has a built-in motor. Like other Tamron lens, it's a AF-I type, slower than AF-S but works.</p>

    <p>Below is a picture of this version. Note the 8 contacts.<br /> Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 - Nikon Mount

    <p>Here is the D version with aperture ring. See there are only 5 contacts. There's also a "screw driver".<br /> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tamron-SP-28-75-F-Mount.jpg</p>

    <p>I'm not sure whether there's another version between the two: G type, no aperture ring, no built-in motor. I can't find a picture for that one.</p>

  8. <p>A group of parents is different from a pair of parents.<br>

    One says some good of the picture, and then another agrees, and then the snow ball starts to roll. <br>

    Within five minutes, the picture becomes "excellent".<br>

    Then one buys one for their kid, the others must buy some for theirs, too.</p>

  9. <blockquote>

    <p>I'd like to increase the shutter speed to relieve the burden of the flash.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>That's not going to happen. HSS always cuts 1 stop more flash power than ND filter.<br>

    At a shutter speed 1 stop above X-sync speed, HSS will cut the GN by 2 stops, or, a half. But with a 1 stop ND filter to bring the shutter speed down to X-sync, it only cut the GN by 1 stop.<br>

    See SB-900 user manual Page F19 and F20.</p>

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