dxin

<p>I'm not sure whether this is a solution. I just want to share an interesting picture.<img src="http://i.imm.io/1laiQ.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>If you have a smartphone, you might consider an GN calculator app. Or, a slide rule. It's old school but quite handy.<br /> However, if you shoot indoors, "bounce flash" can make it a lot easier, because the distance becomes a constant (twice or three times the height of the ceiling). Then you can shoot all day without making many calculations and adjustments. A typical initial setting is ISO200, F4 or F5.6, full flash output at 35mm zoom position, 75 degree to the ceiling.<br /> <br />YN560 is actually targeted for strobe and bounce use, and that's why it has an impressive GN but no TTL of any kind. Yongnuoes do have a series of TTL flashes(YN-462/465/467/468) within the same price range, but the GN is pretty low and only sufficient for direct shot.</p>

<p>Snow night, when the snow reflects the light of city back to the ground, and the whole city is orange-colored and as bright as if it were twilight, even thought it's in the middle of night.<br>

I've never got a chance to take a picture of it because I moved to a city where it hardly snows soon after I got into photography. Camera? I second Andrew for a pocket camera, but my choice is a Ricoh GR.</p>

<p>Just kidding!<br>

The point is, even if you opened it, you still could not figure which part went wrong. It might just make things worse.<br>

I suggest send it in and leave the difficult and risky part of work to the pros.</p>

<p>Don't open it! There's monster in the lens!</p>

<p>No way can RF-603 do that.</p>

 

<p>I tried 280V flash on my D60 a few times 3 years ago, and the camera still works fine till now.<br /> And I also tried an optical sync on it and the sync survived, too.<br /> Though I have never used a high-voltage flash ever since, I don't think it's so big a deal.</p>

<p>what about a set of gel filters for SB-800? it helps "disguise" the flash.</p>

<p>Actually it won't make your life a lot harder if it's not a CPU version.<br>

It still has AE on D7000 as an AI-S lens.</p>

<p>Ask a dealer to see whether it's interchangeable with other bodies?<br>

I heard that screens of N6006/8008/FG/FG20/N90/N75/FM3A/FM/FM2/FE/FE2 are all interchangeable, but I might be wrong.</p>

<p>Do remember to charge your spare batteries and clear the spare cards!<br>

I ran into this situation once when my main battery ran out and I switched to the spare one, which, I found out, had ran out a week before and I forgot to charge it. Luckily I had the vertical grip with me and rushed to buy a group of AAs.</p>

<p>http://www.davidkinghamphotography.com/blog/2012/10/external-power-for-a-nikon-d700<br>

Check this out, pretty cool, 8500mAh, and that's 4 En-El15s or 25 AAs.<br>

For D7100, you can the same via an EP-5B 'fake battery'.</p>

 

<p>Well, that's a lot, but hard to say.</p>

 

<p>It depends on the kind of battery you will be using.<br>

A typical alkaline is about the same capacity of an Ni-MH, and a group of 6 is 1x or 1.5x of a single EN-EL15.<br>

Don't use carbon-zinc, they only give dozens of shots before starting to heat up and leak.<br>

---------------------------------------<br>

Going somewhere cold? Do prepare for the climate!</p>

<p>I agree with Pete. RAW is actually faster when you sort pictures.<br /> I suggest use ViewNX to sort and pick pictures. It is not a good RAW converter(super slow), but it's one of the best viewers. The tag and filter tool is really handy.</p>

<p>First of all, this is (probably) not a CLS compatible flash, meaning that you shall NOT set you D90's built-in flash to COMMAND MODE.<br /> If you did, then each of the dozens of light pulses carrying CLS commands would trigger the TT560 ones and drain its capacitor before the shutter even opens. However, as you said, if you use the lowest output setting, there can be some energy remaining, and you could see some flash in the picture.<br /> -------------------------------------------------------<br /> I assume this TT560 is one of the Chinese flashes like this one(one of the better ones, far way better than Yongnuo):<br /> http://www.godox.com/CN/Products_Camera_Flash_TT560.html<br /> There are two ways to do it:<br /> A) Set D90's flash to M(1/1 to 1/16 as you wish), and TT560 to S1, then D90 would only give ONE flash pulse after the shutter open and it triggers TT560.<br /> B)Set D90 to TTL and adjust its output by Flash Compensation, and set TT560 to S2. On this occasion, D90 would give a pre-flash to calculate its output before the shutter opens, and TT560 would ignore it, and after shutter opens, D90 gives a exposure flash which also triggers TT560.<br /> -----------------------<br /> Problem with option B is that if the gap between the pre-flash and exposure flash is too long (>1/20 sec, approximately), then your slave flash might ignore both of them, which might be an issue when when you use rear-sync and slow shutter speed.</p>

<p>Oh， how did I forget that!</p>

 

<p>Hi, Mike, I asked a friend and he told me about the Nikon WR-10 kit, which perfectly meets your need.<br>

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Remote-Transmitters/27106/WR-R10%252FWR-T10%252FWR-A10-Wireless-Remote-Adapter-Set.html</p>

 

<p>Image sharpening tend to exaggerate noise, and that's why sometimes pictures at ISO100 still looks pretty noisy.<br>

If might want to turn it off if you care a lot about noise.<br>

Also avoid using VIVID (VI) or VIVID PLUS(VI+) as they not only enhance saturation but also enhance image sharpening by default.</p>

<p>It's not a problem. The worst case is to convert a PC cord to hot shoe.<br /> You might want to consider a Yongnuo RF-602/603 RF trigger because the 560III has a built-in receiver for RF-602/603 transmitters. No need to go PW if you don't need TTL.</p>

<p>Simulate a 5.5 FPS Df on your D4 and you know the answer.</p>

 

<p>I'm right handed but I'm really looking forward to a left handed body. Because sometimes it's good to have two bodies in both hands.<br>

I'm right eyed, but I don't think it's too much a trouble. I use right eye to look through the viewfinder most of the time, although I would switch to lift eye if I want to keep both eyes open.</p>

<p>Just buy a bunch of RF shutter controls, set all the receivers to the same channel and use a single transmitter to control them.<br>

You worry too much. There are more than a dozen venders to provide everything you need.<br>

No need to worry about 2-pin/3-pin/10-pin and half-press AF, either: they offer all kinds of cables that fits to all shutter control sockets.<br>

------------------------------<br>

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YTCNJY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1384772257&sr=8-4&keywords=RF603<br>

Good thing about this one is that either of them can be either a receiver or transmitter. So 4 pair of them can control 7 cameras(1 transmitter+7 receivers).</p>

<blockquote>

<p>No error messages on the back when I press either of the info buttons. Was there anything you were expecting?<br>

Yeah, 'unable to communicate with lens, please clean the copper contacts' or something.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>There are 999 better ways to spend the money than mounting a FX super wide angle on a DX body.</p>