allen_gara

<p>Really nice shots, and the contrast and grain is IMHO, right on.No mistaking these for anything other than "CMC" goodness. <br> I'm a recent recipient of an F model (my only Nikon, strangely). I've had it for a year and never used it because I only had the Photomic finder, and it didn't work. Just got a plain finder (which cost way too much money). This F model with a plain finder is really a great camera! I've been looking at the 28mm and 105mm options...now I'm settled.</p>

<p>I've fixed quite a few CDS meters and generally, if they go from +/- 1/3 stop accuracy to 1-2 off, it's not a matter of calibration. More like the CDS cell or other components have gone bad, necessitating repair. If it slowly drifted out, then it's still more likely in need of repair than calibration. They sell for $50-$75 online in good working order, it might be easier to just buy another. It's hard to imagine that even Mamiya has replacement CDS cells, since the camera is likely 30+ years old. An independent repair person might be able to fix and calibrate it if you find someone to do it, but in the meantime another prism can be bought to give you time to look.</p>

<p>Aires 35-III, H-Coral 45mm f1.9, Kodak Ektar 100.</p><div></div>

<p>Aires 35V, W-Coral 35mm f3.2, Kodak Portra 160NC.</p><div></div>

<p>Refurbished Mamiya/Sekor Super Deluxe...pretty to look at, takes beautiful pictures, and is terrible to work on.</p><div></div>

<p>Yashica "M" rangefinder, Kodak Ektar 100.</p><div></div>

<p>Ciro-Flex Model C, Wollensak Velostigmat 85mm, TMax-100. Southwest side of Chicago.</p><div></div>

<p>Peter, you should convince your friend to sell it to you. I have the mentioned Rheinmetal version, and it's a really great and super compact MF camera. I have the 645 mask but only ever shot it 6x6.</p>

<p>Yashica Mat-124, Ilford Delta 100. Lab scan..haven't had time to process my "housemade" scans yet.</p><div></div>

<p>-Even with the processing"irregularities" I'd say job well done. Some of my best photographs (to me) are accidents or at least unintended in part, something that is extremely rare when using a digital camera system. I also have grown to love TLR's, and until 6 months ago, I thought I'd never own one. Problem I have is finding one that takes a <em>bad </em>picture, most decent brands take great pics.</p> <p>Now...if I could just figure out how to get the Rectar lens from my Fujica 6x6 folder into that shutter. Recta-Flex? </p>

<p>And now the attachment (oops).</p><div></div>

<p>Sunset on the Esplanade, La Defense Paris. Ciro-Flex Model C w/85mm Wollensak Velostigmat. Fujifilm Provia 100.</p>

<p>Mr. Johnston- back to your original 2 questions. You are getting what you paid for, which is, low resolution scans to view your images as "proofs". As is suggested already, if you're not going to do all your own scanning, and frankly I can't blame you for not wanting to, what you want is to be able to tell which frames you want to print. The previous posters have explained this thoroughly; you need to know how big you want to make a print, then work backwards from there to know how big a scan you need.</p> <p>I'm not in the UK, so I can't recommend better places. A quick google search for "film processing UK companies" turns up some, and also a few forum sites discussing this in detail (with recommendations). I quickly found a few that gave a little bigger scan for about the same price you're paying. Most of the better quality houses will then provide a bigger scan of a frame when you need it. Finding a good print shop is just as tricky.</p> <p>I'd still consider doing as a few have suggested, namely, get yourself a $200 Canoscan 9900F MkII or equivalent Epson. You can then skip the lab scans altogether and make proof scans yourself.</p>

<p>Had a work trip to Paris last month. For some strange reason I took my newly acquired Ciro-Flex Model D (Rapax, Velostigmat 85mm). Two Americans in Paris? After scanning everything, I won't laugh at Triplets anymore. </p><div></div>

<p>Great idea. I have two "photography" backpacks. One doesn't hold enough photo gear (but holds extras like a laptop, headphones, etc.) and the other holds tons of gear, but not enough outside room for even headphones. You get the best of both here. And, meets another of my travel backpack criteria: it doesn't look like a photo backpack filled with expensive camera gear!</p>

<p>One advantageous feature of the AE-II metered prism (and the -III) is that they allow 1/3rd step adjustments to the shutter speed. With manual viewfinders (prism or WLF), only whole steps are possible. I frequently use the AE-II on auto, and also manually meter to fine tune using the exposure compensation dial. </p>

<p>There's no need to improvise. Bronica makes a magnifying diopter. One on a popular site for $19.50 <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bronica-ZENZANON-E-C-U-L-1-CLOSE-UP-LENS-E-75mm-Lens-Filter-Magnifier-/191343283543?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8cf2cd57">here</a> . You could try stronger power diopters maybe. Also, the WLF is a great idea, and they're not expensive. Bronica also makes stronger magnifying diopter lenses for the WLF too. So many options!</p>

<p>South Side Cinderella?</p><div></div>

<p>Same location, but facing NE. I have a new appreciation for triplets.</p><div></div>

<p>Is it Monday already? Ciro-Flex w/Rapax shutter and Velostigmat 85mm. Kodak TMax100. Chicago.</p><div></div>

<p><strong>Bill Bowes</strong>, the shots are really great. The 6x9 aspect is terrific for the landscapes you're capturing. The contrast and dynamic range are super, and the Zeiss is clearly the better lens (assuming shots are taken and processed the same). What is the film and processing, if you don't mind me asking?</p>

<p>Yashica Mat 124, Ilford Pan F 50. The take up spool was off center, causing the edge to bunch up, hence the line on the right edge. I would crop it out for print, but for CMC...flaws are, well, part of the experience sometimes.</p><div></div>

<p>I would suggest contacting this repair shop, to see if it is a repair that can be accomplished without too much trouble. They may have spare body parts that can be swapped. I'm not necessarily suggesting them as the place to go to, but the conversation may reveal to you whether or not it is reasonably possible, and if so what it might cost.<br> http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_lens.shtml</p>

<p>First shot was with the 28mm/f3.5. This is handheld with the 50mm F1.4 II.</p><div></div>

<p>A couple of recent shots with a Canon FT QL, both with Kodak Ektar 100.</p><div></div>