fredrik_blomberg

Konica Auto S2 | Flickr.

When I was trying to resurrect the 2 that I have here, I took some detailed photos. I hope that they can be of some use to you.

Thanks a lot! This is very good help for me.

My issue now is to find a tool to remove the link pin without damage it.

What tool did you use?

Mine is very stuck

 

That pin (yellow arrow) will have to be extracted from the spindle before you can pull the trigger part out.

 

[ATTACH=full]1423067[/ATTACH]

This is correct.

I did find a copal manual for yarsica that mention this on page 15.

They recommend some Petri pin puscher tool to remove the in.

 

It is very stuck so I need to think of something smart to not destry it more.

 

Any suggestion of any simular tool?

 

https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/SPT-Copal-SVE.pdf

There is a lot of good videos on YouTube done by kind people that share there experience. This model is missing

So you just push it out?

Hum, it is really stuck there.

I destroyed the cocking arm on a scrap yarsica with same shutter to find out how to remove it gently.

I still don't get it.

If this was a valuable camera then I would send it to a proffesonal. Now it's more win ore lose and most of all learn

 

Thanks :) I will try to lift it of, can't se any screws that hold it in place

These 3 copper screws will lose the shutter.

So I can reach the shutterblades. Problem now is still that it will be super difficult to put them back because of the cocking arm block it.

Ether way I do something completely wrong ore other way this shutter is super difficult to work with.

I have some other yarsica with same shutter so would be good to find out.

 

I suspect I need to remove this part, but how?

 

I did find a 4th skrew and that one did lossen all of it.

My problem now is the cocking arm.

I don't understand how to lose it to be able to lift out the shutter.

 

 

Hello!

 

I would need to get help to desamble the shutter to put back the shutterblades in correct possiition.

 

I have a Konica auto S2 that have hade some issues with self timer and the focus ring.

I could fix the self timer and the problem with the focus ring was because one of the screws that holds the shutter had dropped out and blocked the focus.

 

It was easy to mount back but the problem is that one of the shutter blades came out if possiition because of this.

 

I have lossen the 3 screws that holds the shutter together but it is something on the side of the shutter cocker arm that still need to be lossen.

 

I need to take the shutter appart to put the shutterblades back in correct possiition.

 

For me it looks like the cocker arm need to be removed ore something.

 

How do I desamble the shutter?

 

 

I usually use medium format cameras. The 35mm is not that serius for me. Then I want the light meter in the camera to

work.

I will see if I can open the top.

I mean it dies ;)

So the contact are bye the metre it self and not in the shutter?

Halo I have a contaflex super b in very nice condition.

Everything works but there is one problem with the light metre.

Some times I die and if I just touch the camera back a bit it get alive again.

This is more common if I use an speed that are not used that much like 1/500.

In 1/60 it works almost all time.

I I just tuch the speed ring it start working again.

Where is the contact that tells the light metre which speed that is set?

Think I need to clean that contact?

Greetings

 

Fredrik

<p>I do inversion. I normaly use peterson system 4 but this is an other on dont remember but it take one 120 ore tow 35 film, it is made in spain. I will try to only use the peterson to se the differens.</p>

<p>Halo<br>

I now use xtol 1:1 and sometimes I get problem with uneven. I use the right amount of developer and turn the developer tube every 30 second and constantly the first 30 seconds.<br /> <br /> Most of my films get god but some get like this wish is very frustrating.....<br>

Should I use more developer ore what could the reason be?</p>

<p><img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/00078.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="611" /></p>

Normalt i develope 2 120 rolls at the

time. This time as nr 6 just one 35mm

roll.

I used a smaller tank for 35mm.

Maybe the problem was becaus of to

little developer.

I think I will use it in one shot any way.

Think the results will be better any way

I Will try a 1:1 an see what I think. Some if my films must be 1:1 like the rollei retro 400.

It is only 7 euros for 5 litre so not that

expensive.

It alsow means more dirt when you reuse so not that good.

What would you say is this the case of

all developers or is there others that

are better to reuse?

I don't want grain.

 

Greetings

Fredrik

<p>Halo<br>

I have started to use XTOL insted of D76. It do stands in the manual that it is possible to prosses up to 15 rolls with time compensation.<br>

I have now done 6 and I think the first ones are beutiful. But thous ones I have done now are not that great. it is more like a gray scale than b/w. Usaly I do cool down the developer to 20c but this last I did proces at 23c but with the temperatur and time compensation.<br>

What are your experenses? I want good negativs but dont want to wast a lot of developer if it is not needed.<br>

Shuld I mix it as 1:1 and use it just on time ore what is best?<br>

<img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/image005.jpg" alt="" width="610" height="415" /><br>

One of the first rolls. T-MAX100 (I just get happy when I look at this)<br />contaflex super b 50 mm tessar<br>

<img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/image011.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="672" /><br /><br />This is alsow T-MAX 100 but the 6 roll in same xtol. It feals under exposed and not that nice.<br />contaflex super b 50 mm tessar<br>

Greatings<br>

Fredrik</p>

I Will developer it as bw tomorrow an

treat it as plus-x.

I did put it in the tank tonight and it

stand 90a on the backing paper.

Don't know if that say anything about

the film.

One thing I notice is that the film was

very thick.

<p>I will try to process it in B/W if I dont find any more information. I shuld be asa 12 och 32 maby the backing paper give me more information when I have put the film in the cassett.<br>

I have compleat c41 kit and b/w developer so will do i myself.</p>

<p>Halo<br>

I did find an old exposed film in a camera that I buyed. It is a Gevacolor N5. Is this ordinary c22 developing och what chemicals can I use?<br>

<img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_1206.jpg" alt="" width="492" height="236" /><br>

<img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_1207.jpg" alt="" width="490" height="298" /><br>

<img src="http://monorecords.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_1208.jpg" alt="" width="492" height="596" /></p>