Jump to content

sean_yates

Members
  • Posts

    716
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by sean_yates

  1. My first darkroom was a portion of the basement with no windows. The

    door was light proofed with a large piece of Duvytene and the other

    "finished" room had to have the lights of so they wouldn't leek

    through the cheap panel job the owner had installed. I set the trays

    on a large piece of 3/4 ply on top of the washing machine and dryer.

    The enlarger sat on a homemade work bench - cast off top of an old

    kitchen table and legs made of 4 X 4's.

     

    <p>

     

    My most recent darkroom is a 6' X 6' X 6' walk-in cedar closet in

    the basement with no running water. Electricity comes from a power

    strip, the cord run through a hole drilled in the door. The trays are

    on a shelf that used to hold clothes and the Beseler 4 X 5 sits on the

    floor. All washing and mixing of chemistry occurs in the two

    chambered deep sink that came with the house. I still have to use the

    Duvytene to block the light when developing film.

  2. I don't believe it. Someone came into the library today and asked a photography question. Unfortunatley I couldn't answer and they were far from Net oriented.

     

    <p>

     

    What film and developer does/did Hamish Fulton (British photographer/artist/walker) use in the book "Landscape Theory". I think we may be getting it I.L.L.'d from a university but somehow I don't think the technique topic is going to be in it.

     

    <p>

     

    Any suggestions?

  3. Alan - both Bill Johnson and I noticed this with our prints at the

    workshop. Bill also had an Amidol print which was more neutral to

    just slightly warm. He also thinks that the fixer plays a part in

    the image tone. I've got his e-mail address if you need it.

  4. I second Doug, for the Calumet C series a Majestic or Saltzman is the

    way to go. Brett and Cole used 'em on a Ries, but as you say,

    there's a cost factor involved. When you search Ebay for your

    Majestic, make sure to search the entire site, not just photography.

    I found a good one in "hand tools" and won it for $30.00

  5. Grey Wolf, Able Fox Five here, Over.

     

    <p>

     

    At least two well known large format photogs I know of do not/did not

    use loupes. With a fresnel I find I don't need a loupe with my 8 X

    10.

     

    <p>

     

    The last studio I worked in seemed evenly split - some of the

    shooters used 'em allatime, some used 'em only when shooting 4 X 5,

    and some never used 'em. No one ever singled out one shooters work

    as sharper than anothers and no client ever complained. The studio

    before that used 'em, but not with any degree of consistancy - i.e.

    if the G.G. was too dark, out came the loupe. The first studio I

    worked in used an old process lens.

     

    <p>

     

    Others have suggested you use the 50mm lens from your 35mm reversed.

     

    <p>

     

    Edward Weston used his pince nez glasses. Ron Wisner uses (and

    sells) a linen tester - not the same as those coated multi-element

    mega-buck loupes. I have bought lenses that cost less.

     

    <p>

     

    If it works and you are satisfied with your prints, then it's good

    enough. If you are a worrier, or obsessive, or whatever, buy one if

    it'll make you more confident. I kinda doubt someone will stop dead

    in their tracks and point an accusing finger "You didn't use a loupe

    on that one! It's no good!" If the image is strong, no one will

    care how you got it.

  6. The last studio I worked in shot furniture almsot exclusively -

    although they did do things from machine parts to tractor trailers on

    occassion. All their cameras were Horesman - most 8 X 10, but they

    did have 2 or 3 of the 4 X 5's.

     

    <p>

     

    We never used the calculator. I never heard anyone complain about

    them. Smooth, solid, flexible. If we ever had a gripe it was that

    you had to have a really solid stand under them because the L

    standards seemed to pick up any vibration and magnify it. There was

    one stand we wound up using more than we wanted to because of this

    and we always had to waaaaaa-aaaaa-aaaaa-it for it to settle down

    before actually opening the shutter.

  7. Edward Weston used century universal in 8 x 10 and graflex super d in

    5 x 7.

    -- kevin kolosky (kjkolosky@kjkolosky.com), August 24, 2000.

     

    <p>

     

    You sure about that Kev? I know Weston had a 2.25 X 3.25 and a 4 X 5

    Graflex, but I've seen no citations on a 5 X 7. Did Graflex even

    make a 5 X 7 Super D? I know Strand used a 5 X 7 Graflex. What's

    your source?

  8. I never met A.A. either. And I'm not a member of A.A.

     

    <p>

     

    or A.A.A.

     

    <p>

     

     

    I don't even have an M.A. I once saw an A.A. gun though.

     

    <p>

     

     

    Anyway, the two most famous A.A. Aspens were shot with an 8 X 10. I

    think you wouldn't be too far off the mark to say that Adams

    owned/used/borrowed one of almost any camera you can think of at one

    time or another. Anyone have any shots of him with an Argus C-3?

  9. p.s. Do I get credit in a citation? It's gonna look kinda wierd to

    say "...some guy on the net wrote...."

     

    <p>

     

     

    for the record, pg. 15 ISBN 082121750x

     

    <p>

     

    "In the early 30's my excursions were more cautious, and I used my

    camera with serious intent. My cameras of that period were 4 X 5

    Korona View, 5 X 7 and 3.25 X 4.25 Zeis Juwels, 5 X 7 Linhof, 5 X 7

    Deardorff, 4 X 5 speed Graphic, 2.25 X 2.25 Zeiss Super-Ikonta B and

    a 35mm COntax - not all possessed at one time!"

     

    <p>

     

    I also now recall seeing a self-portrait of him with a Century

    Universal

  10. Charles,

     

    <p>

     

    Nathan Congdon has written a thorough and detailed review here:

     

    <p>

     

    http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/photography/lf/ebony.html

     

    <p>

     

    I'm sure he would be willing to discuss the camera in detail and

    answer any questions you might have. Nathan showed me his camera

    when I was in Bal-mer last March. With all do respect to Mr. Wisner,

    I would have to agree that the Ebony is the most solid woody I have

    seen.

     

    <p>

     

    Any camera will brake under the right conditions. When I was in

    Tunisia I lost my Wisner to a concrete abuttment. I couldn't count

    on getting it back if I shipped it from Tunis to Massachusetts for

    repair. I could however find all kinds of skilled craftsmen right

    there who could fix that wooden camera even though they weren't sure

    what it was.

     

    <p>

     

    I have a metal camera now and am nervous enough about it that I don't

    like being without a spare. I know when/if I break that 'un - it'll

    probably be less expensive to buy another used than to get it fixed.

     

    <p>

     

    Re: Mr. Greenspuns comments, I can only liken the difference between

    a camera with non-geared movements to a SINAR P2 or Linhof as being

    similar to the difference between a 1958 Dodge Power Wagon and a

    Mercedes whatever - totally different creatures for different

    purposes goals etc. BOTH will get the job done when used as intended.

     

    <p>

     

    Personally, I favor the Dodge.

  11. I made a temporary and portable drying cabinet out of translucent

    shower curtains, nylon string, wooden clothes pins, and 1/2 PVC pipes

    from the local hardware emporium. Kind of a big tinkertoy thing.

    Worked well enough, and I have 18 cats and shoot 8 X 10.

×
×
  • Create New...