zekai_h

<p>Thank you, Stephen and Nige. <br /> I didn't think of examining the negatives (Still thinking in digital photography mode). When I got home tonight, I will use a magnifier to inspect the negatives. I am not really sure why the last two looks underexposed. I remember that it was quite bright and the light meter indicated it's fine. <br /> @Nige, The color one is ISO 200 (on a CL), but somehow it looks more blurry than the ISO 400 (on a R4M). That's also something I don't understand.</p>

<p>Yet another one<br /> <a href="http://photomentary.com/albums/Leisure/32590036.jpg"><img src="http://photomentary.com/albums/Leisure/32590036.jpg" alt="" width="1544" height="1024" /></a></p>

<p><a href="http://photomentary.com/albums/Leisure/32590033.jpg"><img src="http://photomentary.com/albums/Leisure/32590033.jpg" alt="" width="1544" height="1024" /></a></p>

<p>BTW, by "I was testing the leica CL", I meant I just got it from ebay and not sure whether there is a problem. (So it's a "reviewing test".)</p>

<p>Thank you Bill and Les.<br>

Sorry for that. I am not sure how to insert a large versions here, so uploaded the two pictures in tumblr.<br>

Follows are two links:<br>

<a href="http://cultofleica.tumblr.com/image/48091437541">http://cultofleica.tumblr.com/image/48091437541</a><br>

<a href="http://cultofleica.tumblr.com/image/48091398764">http://cultofleica.tumblr.com/image/48091398764</a><br>

Please note that you when the cursor turns (+), you can click to zoom. And that's the size what I got. </p>

<p>Thanks again.</p>

 

<p>I am new to film (more exactly, it's been 10 years since my last using of film camera, which was an auto one). Just started to try out film camera again and got two rolls of film from two used film cameras developed. <br /> 1. trix-400 B&W on a voigtlander R4M <br /> 2. Fuji color 24 on a leica cl (the reason for a cheapo film was it's cheap and I was testing the leica cl)<br /> After a few minutes exciting, I noticed that some problems. And would like to ask for some suggestions.</p>

<p>trix-400 B&W developed by thedarkroom<br /> <img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/064553d8c4fc872d78a0cadebd36c97a/tumblr_mlbthpVwzq1rmwfsro1_500.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Fuji color 24 developed by walgreens 14th street <br /> <img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/36991a3d51dbac1cd3c6e4df24edebd1/tumblr_mlbtihrHpy1rmwfsro1_500.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="331" /></p>

<p>The resolution is kinda low, especially the color film on leica cl. <br />Could anyone share some thought on whether it's the film, the camera, the scaner or my problem? Feel free to criticize them.</p>

<p>Thank you very much. <br /><br /></p>

<p>Thanks Steve. I like it's compact size, easily fit into my pocket. And as you said, the price is giveaway for the combo. I tested the lens on my m9 and works great. The light meter looks accurate(I compared it with what my m9 suggests well-expose.) I would finish this roll of film and develop to see whether there is any light leaking.</p>

<p>Thanks Stephen. I did find those screw, but they are hard to loosen. <br>

The black tape is a great idea. I forgot that I have black tape (I used them to mask my other cameras' logos). I would use it and remark the apertures.<br>

I still can tell the DOF because only the aperture ring is wrong, the DOF and the focus marks are still correct. <br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>As for the debate, it's great to know how everyone thinks, and agree to disagree. </p>

<p>Last Sunday I went out for some shots. And there was a lady playing with her kid on a stroller. I stepped closer and saw she was so focusing. So I tried to composite a little bit. However she noticed that and turned towards me while still talking with her kid. Then I pressed the button, but the picture ended up looks like she's angry and yelling at me. </p>

<p>Got a leica cl and a 40mm lens at $210, and you get what you paid. It turns out that the lens has some serious problem. Although the aperture works from 2 to 16, but the mark is offset by about 4 stops. So I wont be able to easily tell what's the current aperture, any suggestion?<br>

(I was crazy enough to try to disassemble the lens to adjust it, but some screws are too old to take off )<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>@ Jeff, sorry for my poor expression. It's merely a personal opinion. And by "much better", I actually meant "much closer to what I was about to take.". Cuz there were many times I saw moments and would like to catch, but because I was too slow and ended up catching a different moment that the subject turned towards me and stared at me surprisingly.</p>

<p>@Leslie In the case that I replied to Jeff. My problem was not that my camera is not fast, was that I try to composite a little bit and raise the attention of the subject and either missed the shot or the scene became less interesting.</p>

<p>@Lex I do believe it's always a good idea to listen to some different opinion and try new things out.</p>

<p>But when the subject is unaware of being taken photo, it does look much better. There were many times when I try to composite a little bit and the subject's facial expression completely changed.</p>

<p>Thanks again. <br>

@David, the max iso for M9 is actually 2500. But I will try to raise my setting higher than I used to set. I will try out ETTR later this weekend. And I have a feeling that it would be much better cuz I did notice fixing over-exposed photo is much easier than those under-exposed. While the other side, shooting full manual film is hard to me at the beginning, but somehow it forces me to improve. (Though I also use full manual mode on my M9, but I still chimp to make sure I set the camera right. And a funny thing is when I used my film camera for the first week, every time after taking a photo, I tried to see how it look by looking at the back as a first instinct)<br>

<br>

@Stephen I used to take landscape for fun. And I would spend time adjusting the setting to get a well-exposed, sharp photo even with a very entry level dslr. Now for street photography, sometime some great views are just too short to allow me adjust my camera and I would go with the presetting. But since they are preset for this purpose, most time it works great unless I forgot to set it back after some occasional focus at infinite point. <br>

Also, I had used AE on a dslr before and I feel like most sunset view is a little bit over-exposed, at least not the feeling that I wanted and I always use -1 EV. <br>

Nice picture and pretty lady. Thanks for sharing. <br>

</p>

<p>@Marc, Thanks for the long input. That totally makes sense and also clear my another doubt about cropping, though I try not to crop at all. </p>

<p>David, that's a great idea. I would definitely try it out this weekend. Thank you. And yes, I should raise the ISO to get better exposure.</p>

<p>Sorry that I didn't explain some background so it seems odd to you.<br>

1. In my digital RF, I did raise my ISO high when the light condition is bad. But later I have a confusion (see Point 3).<br>

2. I am new to film, and currently set the ISO to exactly same as my film (400). (Should I push the whole roll to some higher one?)<br>

3. For many reasons, I only carry my R4m during weekday. So in order to get used to the "limitation" of the film ISO, I also try to use lower ISO on my M9 (below 640).<br>

When I am typing this, I realize that this is a lousy reason. What I should do is probably using the right ISO on my M9 while pushing my film on my R4m. </p>

<p>Thanks for all the input. <br>

I will reply briefly now and more detailed coming up later. <br>

I am using Leica M9 during weekend and Voigtlander R4m (fully mechanical) daily. I am not full time photographer, but I carry my R4m everywhere, everytime. And the film I am using is trix-400, I am new to film, so haven't pushed it yet. </p>

<p>Thank you, Lex. I like Brassai's "Paris at Night", too. <br>

Thanks for the share of the DOF calculator. I am using a rangefinder camera. Thus actually relying heavily on the mark of the lens, which appears to me very easy to understand the depth of field. And yes, I actually use f/8 quite often especially during the day time, though not really stick to it. <br>

I know that it's not so strict on post-processing when comes to candid photography. Just not sure that whether it's a good idea to intentionally allow under-exposure in order to get clear shot. But for now, it seems to me that under-exposure is easier to fix afterwards than blurriness. </p>

<p>When taking street photograph during the light condition is not good. I try to always set aperture smaller than 1/4.5 during the day, or smaller than 1/2.8 at night to get wider dept of field so that the prefocus works for more cases; and shutter speed always higher than 1/125s so that even the subject is moving, I wouldn't end up get a blurry picture. However, apparently this setting most time would get an under-exposed photo. I currently use lightroom for postprocessing. <br>

My question is: I read that some people believe that street photography (especially for documentary purpose), is not supposed to do any postprocessing. So I would like to know how do you handle this situation? Is it a good idea to guarantee a sharp photo first, then the right exposure. Or there is a good way to guarantee the two?<br /> Thank you in advance.</p>

<p>Haha, Tom, I guess then I have to ask where can I find a yellow pages directory. Just joking. <br>

I got two rolls of neopan 400 from calumetphoto yesterday.<br>

I check the price at uniquephoto. It's even slightly cheaper than B&H.<br>

I've passed by foto care before, but it was close. So never been there. will try it out later.</p>

<p>Thank you all. <br>

Calumet's film is little bit higher than B&H, but acceptable once a while. The guys who work there see very nice. I will explore the store and the neighborhood more often. <br>

To Jim: I am new to film, so still trying out mainstream film types, thus haven't started stocking yet. But I will definitely stock some once decided. </p>

<p>Thank you all, I was focusing on camera stores only and ignored other general places.<br>

And I just realize that J&R sells film as well, though the price is much higher than b&H, but at least they open pretty much everyday. Adorama has pretty much same hours as B&H, they are close from 3.25 thru 4.3 too.<br>

But Calumet<strong> </strong>and walgreens look like pretty good alternatives. <br>

Thanks, guys. </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Thank you for the input. I know there are several online places that I can get. Just trying to look for a local store for urgent need. </p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>Hi all,<br /> I searched the forum but doesn't come up with any. <br /> I was wondering where I can get 35mm B&W films in NY city besides B&H, cuz they are close from 3.25 ~ 4.3 for holiday. <br>

And since I am here, is there any alternative camera store besides it and Adorama, sometimes it's too hard to find a time to visit their stores. Do you know any big camera store in new york that open until 8:00 and Saturdays? Not necessary one that sells everything, but small accessories and consumables.<br /> (I believe that same question must been asked before but I missed it, if so, please kindly redirect me. Thank you very much.)</p>

<p>Just to put an end to this thread, I eventually got a Bessa R4M. Thanks again. </p>