<p>For a while I'd noticed that I could wobble the barrel of my 110 f/2.8 up and down slightly when it was properly seated on the camera. This didn't happen on my other three lenses (50mm, 180mm, and 250mm) so the problem was obviously with the lens and not the camera, but I wasn't using it much, was in the process of moving and had to close down my darkroom, etc. I hadn't observed if it affected image quality (of course, I usually shoot stopped down somewhat which would minimize any negative effects, I think, as long as the lens hadn't moved much, and I frequently used the other lenses anyway) so I didn't worry about it until recently, when I got the camera out of storage to exercise the shutters, and it seemed the barrel was somewhat looser. It occurred to me that even a degree or two of deviation from a perfect right angle to the film plane would change the plane of focus, just as it would on a view camera.<br> I examined the lens more closely and realized that a split ring held the cell and shutter unit in place within the barrel—which has the mount, of course. When I tried to unscrew the ring, sure enough the lens unit itself was loosened in the barrel, and could be advanced or withdrawn slightly. Being careful not to scratch anything (!) I was able to tighten the ring and—voila!—the lens no longer wobbled in its barrel. But when I went outside to check the focusing, I realized that the lens was advanced very slightly, <strong>and could not be properly focused at infinity</strong>: with the bellows racked all the way in, it was still focusing about 20 meters away. It also seemed that the faint ring indicating slight wear from rotating the breech locking ring was visible, rather than underneath the ring, as it should be. Monkeying with the inner split ring and trying to press down on the mount as best I could while tightening it, I was still unable to get the 'infinity' position to focus further away than 30 or 40 meters at best. I checked with my longer-focus lenses and the camera itself is OK; these lenses at 'infinity' are sharpest when trained on trees 150 or 200 meters away. The problem is definitely in the 110 lens. Also: to the best I can tell, the barrel is about 2mm shorter on the bottom than the top, although without sharp reference marks, it's hard to judge exactly.<br> Does anyone have any experience with this issue? The present time is, let's say, not a good one to drop money on a serious repair service (I'm not even sure who to go to.) Usually, they charge a high flat fee before they'll even look at your camera. Is there some part of the adjustment procedure I don't know about? Obviously, if the distance were a hair <em>too short</em>, I could just rack out the lens ever so slightly and be at infinity then; otherwise, I'm focusing on the ground glass anyway, so if the distance scale is off by a tiny amount it's no big deal. The problem is that it is slightly too long. I'm not sure if the few repair manuals for sale on the web even go into adjusting lenses; the adjustment procedure for RB lenses is definitely different (and involves exposing the shutter assembly—no thank you: at that point, it would be an expert shop or no one. Any suggestions?</p>