nze_christian
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Posts posted by nze_christian
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Ware recommand to dilute by half to get less contrasty image.
But it is better to get less contrasty negative.
Ware cyanotype appreciate quite normal neg Just a little over develop. You a classic developper and add 20% time .
CHristian Nze
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You could also try fuji Mi dup film, it is a direct positive film used in radiography to make copy of radiography.
It give good result develop in D19, the blue based density film is a little stron comapre to usual film ? But I am quite nice Platinum with negative enlarged on this film.. You're lucky enough to find it at a good price in the USA, here is a web page to find it.
http://www.bussvc.wisc.edu/purch/contract/wp5517.html
Christian Nze
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isn't your darkroom colder than before??? cold snap. this happen with many papers.if ti si cold snap just warm up your darkrrom a little and everything will turn good.
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I think that anthotype is the safer as sensitizer is made of flower's petal.
Christian
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Hello Markus,
I will talk of the 2 way to get digital negative.
The image setter wil give you great and tough negative . if you have acces to an image setter of 300lpi, they give terrific result.
But Inkjet give also terrific result. Now I just can't see the difference between an optically and digital inkjet negative. But I find them a little bit harder to do, compare to digital neg for image setter.
You need to take care on sharpening on the sky to avoid graining, work the max. in 16 bit.
But well made, you will not see any differences.
The inkjet negative are more fragile and you should avoid to touch the inked part.
if you need advice just contact me.
here is an example of what can be obtained of a 35 mm enlarge 6 times
<body>
<center><img SRC="http://perso.club-internet.fr/cnze/images/buda1.jpg" height=600 width=351></center>
</body>platinum print
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Just make a research on the alt photo list , I 've seen nice anthotypes made by one of the member on the web. THis process require a lot of exposure. I made one a year ago but it was'nt as good as I am waiting for.
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Hello william,
I always clear my platinum print this way:
first bath : citric acid 3% 5 minutes
second bath: Hypowash kodak for 10 minutes
then I rinse the print in water bath (to avoid creation of sulfuric gas) before the third bath of citric acid (5 minutes)
I get really god result with this method what ever the paper.
But the clrearing method depend on the paper. I remark that Arches platine badly react with hydrochloric acid, which is known to be one of the better clearing agent.
Some paper clear better in oxalic acid.
I also change my clearing depnding on the process: when I do a ziatype I give a longer first bath (10 minutes),but when I do a POP I let my print 3 minutes in my home made developer which is a little acid to help the ferris toget out at this step.
If you want to test your clreing method just print wuthout black border and you will see when the paper start to be white again. youshould also consider that the final wahsing also help to take out ferric salt.
Have nice printing
Christian Nze
www.c-nze.com
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The better thing to do is to ask this on the carbon list. I know that some people their have already done color carbon transfer.
http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/carbon
CHristian Nze
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Hello,
Another way to get cold ton ito switch to Ziatype. The pure ziatype give a neutral tone and when you add gold it give really cold tone.
Using more platinum(in D.O.P) also help to get cold tone. A paper like Buxton platinotype (somawhat expensive)give me colder tone than others.
regards
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Hi
If you truely want to use a densitometer to read your negative, and if you havee computer, a scanner which permit to scan film (like espon 3200 or other). the easiest way and the cheapest will be to buy a software like vuescan. It will allow you to read the density of your film.
regards
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Hello Isaac
You want to be sure to buy a real carbon print so you will find some at the following address: http://www.carbonphotoprint.com/
The Artist of this page called JP stringa , he live in switzerland and made is own carbon paper with is own machine. He 's carbon paper is great and is work too. He doesn't put a lot of image online but I think it is worth to try.
He also sell some carbo paper for whose who want to try this process.
In fact there are a lot of french photographer which use carbon but they don't have any web page.
regards
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I sell My work through my web page www.c-nze.com , And some on ebay.
And there are some nice platinum print avaiable through ebay. just amke a search for platinum print in ART Photography section.
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just try www.modotti.com , nice page, the image are too small and bad jpeg but nice.
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Hi ,
Paris is not a really great place for Large format, compare to New york or other USA city.
But there is a shop called "Le grand fromat" on the boulevard beaumarchais , tube station "Bastille" or "chemin vert" http://www.legrandformat.com/ . But price are truely expensive compare to us price (about twice or 3 time the US Price ).
There is also some second hand but the large formart french market is not as develop as the american one.
There is also a place called "BIP" , they're closed to paris in the near surburb of porte d'orlean. http://www.bipphoto.com/
for film a good place is Prophot www.prophot.fr , there are other place specilased for pro but I don't recall their name.
regards
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D19 is real contrasty developper. apply on might photography it will give something contrasty. you will surely loose some info in the low light and get extremly dense high light. This developer conti a lot of potassium bromide so if you want to keep inforation in the low light you shoud over expose your film.
In fact you will make your film look like a lith emulsion.
But isn't night photography contrasty enough???
normal dilution is 1+1and timing is around4-6 minute. this developer is realy energic.
regards
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hello
Just visit www.kerik.com and www.stanklimek.com
Kerik kouklis, stan klimek and stuart melvin Make great work
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Hi Wayne,
I have no problem with flattening Crane's paper. Just keep it flat with my others prints before matting.
For the choice of paper I think you should consider Arche 's platine or Cot 320 (about the same ) and Buxton. They both have a different look and work great with PoP and DOP. I also use BFK rives, and a lot of japanese paper.
Socorro isn't y prefered paper as I find it a little bit too cotrasty.
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Hi all
I got and old 12x15 camera which is really pleasant. I will be
pleased to transform itina 10x15 camera by adding a new back.
Does any one know where I could get the jod make (for film holder and
back)??
regards from France
Christian
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if you' ll go to Ny try to visit http://www.johnstevenson-gallery.com
For the book I think that the Sullivan and Weese cover both POP and DOp process and are interesting.
The last Arentz also really great if you think you will do only D.O.P.
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If I well understand you want toprint your neagtive on plain paper and then contact it on albumen paper.
If it is this one of my friend done it I use light art paper, print is negative using his inkjet printer and then oil this paper before exposing it . He don't use albumen paper but salt paper.
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Sure sandy,
Iso is not a fixed thing in photography.
I use the 320 iso for normal contrast scene but switch to higher iso when their is less contrast (foggy scene). In oppposite I use lower iso when I am in front of a to contrasty scene.
But as always expose for the shadow develop for the highlight it will always work.
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Hi Chris
Both are right , but they don't use the same system.
Arentz wrote is book on the traditionnal platinum process which tend to give good seperation in the black.
R.S and C.W. wrote them book for both Ziatype and Traditional but ziatype need more density in the low value, this process suit larger density range negative and if you don't take care of the low light you will lose some detail in it.
But 320 rating is also good for traditionnal it will just give a longer time exposure.
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The thing is to develop your negative to obtain a density range of 1.8 to 2.2. You should also take care to get enough detail in the low value so it is better to expose normally and develop for a longer time.
A good approach is to use PMK as you can print both in platinum and silver with this developper. It gives great platinum negative. Carl Wesse wrote a really good article on it, you can read it t this address: http://www.phototechmag.com/previous-articles/nov99-weese/nov99-weese.htm
Christian Nze
too much contrast in NEW cyanotype---- Help
in Black & White Practice
Posted
I read again the article of Ware and find this:
"The contrast of the sensitizer can be lessened by adding citric acid, so that it can even accommodate a negative density range of 2.6 or so. Conversely,the contrast can be increased by the addition of more ammonium dichromate solution."
hope this help