adam_nash2

Thanks Michael,

Yes I thought of marking the lens too but if you turn the focus ring to its extreme, left or right. One it has reached infinity

(or just beyond) it just keeps on turning meaning unless you are carful this technique won't work on this lens. It really is an

apparently idiotic feature as it essentially renders the focus distance indicator useless. Or even worse actually gives you

totally wrong information. I have wasted at least one precious night in Patagonia finding this out. However I may be

missing something.

Yes I am aware if the influences on noise and I am quite sure I haven't mastered them as we'll as I could. Certainly more

experimentation is needed on my part. However I live in Dubai where stars are rare meaning when I do get to see them I

have traveled far (Patagonia) to see them and losing nights through trial and error is costly and frustrating.

So I'm just trying to give myself a head start with at least an ideal lens fit for purpose.

<blockquote>Voigtlander Color Skopar f/3.5 20mm lens. This lens has a cpu to meter with the D7000. It has an infinity stop for your astrophotography and you can set your hyperfocal distance for your landscape shots</blockquote>

<p>Thank you for this, very interesting. I'll look into it.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I guess the OP wants wide-sky astrophotography, rather than imaging a telescope's view.<br /></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Exactly right</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Adam, have you attempted any shots with your existing lenses?<br /></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes I have and with differing success rates. I also found a very peculiar trait with the 16-85 lens. When focusing say on the moon, distant stars of the horizon, the distance indicator is WAY off infinity. In all cases it indicates a focus around the 1.5m range, Trying to focus on infinity yielded totally out-of-focus results. I have tested this day and night and in hot and cold conditions all with the same result. I have also found others on the net with similar problems with this lens. Although when I do get the focus right the focus is sharp although a quite noisy due to it not being a particularly fast lens. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>Conversely, maybe you can point to an image you'd like to replicate.<br /></p>

</blockquote>

<p>More videos than images but here are some great examples of the kind of work I would like to shoot for, eventually. <br>

http://vimeo.com/57130400<br>

http://vimeo.com/24456787<br>

<br>

I should note that I will most probably be using a eMotimo or a Syrp Genie with this to get some motion. Rick, with this in mind tracking the stars will have to come a little later I think..</p>

Hello all,

I am becoming increasing interested in astrophotography. Specifically timelapses, star trails and nightime landscape shots. With that in

mind I presume I'm after a wide prime. Of course I will be looking to use this lens for daytime landscape as well as general low light shots.

I currently have the 16-85 and 70-300 used with a D7000 and am looking to grow my lens collection with this function in mind.

Any thoughts? And please don't limit on price I am aware of the costs and have allocated myself a budget (although I am just an enthusiast)

<p>Antonio, David</p>

<p>I think the next step would be to do some (more) research on whether the D7000 is a good bride for the Hoya R72. currently there doesnt seem to be much that supports this on the net so I will have to try and borrow a filter and give it a go myself. When doing so I will certainly give the green point selected white balance a go. On the other hand there seems to be many more decent examples of the D3000 and the 550D being capable of decent IR photography. We shall see and I will post the results here.</p>

<p>In the meantime I am awaiting the results of shooting a roll of Kodak Aerochrome i shot in Patagonia in.... Shock... A taped up 120 Holga with orange/ yellow filter. Again we shall see. </p>

<p>Wow, some great responses here and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you all that have contributed your time to some enlightening explanations. </p>

<p>In short I think the answer may be as Antonio and Joseph stated, that some camera/ IR blocker/ filter combos are just not as efficient as others in capturing the type of near IR images I am after. I am looking for white glowing foliage, dark skys and crazy colours.</p>

<p>Yes Joseph, you are correct I do have the Marumi HB-700 and the more I play with the images and utilise the techniques described well by Antonio I see that I am in fact getting some subtle IR white foliage glow in parts of the image. The lack of this characteristic was making me think, as did Bob, that the filter was fake.</p>

<p>So, am I correct in assuming that this filter is letting in too much "barely visible light" starting at about 68onm whilst my cameras IR blocker kicks in at around 700onm effectively giving me a very red image rather than recording actual IR reflectance? If im wrong please set me straight here.</p>

<p>Now, if that is correct I cant see a work around for filter camera combo, as many people have touch on such as exposing for the green channel (which I presume would have to be a manual exposure bracketed for trial and error). I would simply need a higher IR filter that blocked more barely visible light. Something like the Hoya R72. Is this statement correct and do you think this filter would work on my camera? Please bare in mind that it is "colour" infrared images I am after. I am aware that some creative license go into exactly what colours are within an image. </p>

<p>Once again thank you for your time.</p>

<p>Adam</p>

<p>But if I had it open any longer the image would be over exposed.<br>

Do you think dropping the aperture to f22 would help? </p>

<p>All my test shots were taken at f16 at ISO200.<br>

This particular shot was a 0.8 second exposure.</p>

<p>Agreed but ripping the filter off my brand new D7000 isn't really an option for me.</p>

<p>Yep, nothing but red. Thats the problem. Zero editing on this though so not much use to anyone, the raw file ill post later.<br>

Is it me, the camera or the filter? Any ideas?</p>

<p>You do not have to remove the IR filter to be able to take IR images with a DSLR. You are just required to take longer exposures to "burn" through the blocker. Some cameras have a better filter than others. For example my D7000 is better at blocking IR light than my girlfriends D3000 so I opted to use that<br>

You are correct though in the channel swapping. I did try it numerous ways and even entering greater values than suggested. No luck, still a heavily red image. <br>

Yes I will certainly upload the raw file to a file hosting site later. In the meantime here is a jpeg of one of the test shots.</p><div></div>

<p>Hello<br>

I recently bought a Marumi infrared filter on Ebay. After quite extensively reading up on exactly how to shoot and process infrared images I have not been able to reproduce the effects I have seen and am now wondering if the filter itself is to blame.<br>

I am aware that a lot of the colours seen in these type of images can and are added in post and to personal preference but I simply end up with a heavily red cast image even after full adjustments to the white balance sliders in both Lightroom and Camera Raw. No white branches, grass or foliage. No IR reflectance at all. <br>

As I said I have followed numerous tutorials to the T with no luck. I am currently in the office but will upload a unedited .dng file later today in case anyone has the time to take a look themselves. It was shot with auto WB, tripod mounted and focused prior to applying the filter. All other metadata will be readable in the file. I am also happy to take more shots with the same filter if anyone has any further ideas. <br>

Many thanks,<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Thank you everybody for taking the time to contribute such well considered and thorough responses. Much appreciated.</p>

<p>In short its looking like the cut and perforation method is well and truly out of the window unless i can find a specialist with the dedicated and specific machinery already in place. A long shot to say the least. </p>

<p>I have already purchased a new D7000, multiple lenses, filters and bags for this upcoming trip as well as taking my LCA+ and Holga meaning purchasing another niche camera is a bit of a luxury. Another one. </p>

<p>With that in mind borrowing an old medium format is probably the best option unless I can find one at a bargain price. Im going to check out the only store in Dubai that hold such cameras and will keep you posted on what the options are.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I'm not feeling the Lomo love around here!<br>

Check out what is possible with Lomo products and Infrared film http://www.lomography.com/magazine/tipster/2011/10/11/making-the-most-of-kodak-aerochrome<br>

Some great lighthearted off-the-cuff shots. <br>

So it appears as always there is no magic solution to getting this film (or any medium format) film cut down for use in a 135mm camera. I must admit I do love those old metal frame cameras and know of exactly the place where I can pick an old refurbished model here in Dubai for a decent price although it is ANOTHER camera to lug around with me. I love my LCA and it rarely lets me down when you know its limitations and unlike the Holga it is a metal build with a glass lens.<br>

As far as the Fujica GS 645S goes. I love it but not really an option for me at +/- $400 and the 120 folder looks a bit delicate for the patagonian tundra where I plan to use at least some of this film.<br>

So still at a dead end here with the only possibility seeming to be a reasonably priced medium format camera. Although I must say im still waiting for a miraculous post telling me how to chop it down and sing the praises of the LCA+.</p>

Hello

I am lucky enough to have a handful of some of th last remaining rolls of Kodak Aerochrome Infrared film. Whilst I can load this intomy

Holga it seems a bit of a waste with such a cheap camera as it tends to be so hit and miss. I also have a Lomo LCA+ which I can

consistently get some great images from through negative and cross processed slide http://www.lomography.com/homes/adamnash100

So, I am planning to get my 5 rolls of 120mm infrared film cut down to 35mm including sprocket holes. Problem is I have no clue where or

how to get this done and my Internet searches is proving fruitless.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks,

Adam

Exactly..... I can just see this thing breaking after a few uses.

I contacted the makers of Genie and they told me they will be ready for shipping at the end of September with a pre order

offer going on their site soon. The only problem with this product is it is only single axis panning with no tilt.

As you said though, for this price you will have to compromise on something.

Yes it is. In fact I listed it in my original post. It's the AutoMate.

It seems good on paper but I have read quite a few negative points about it and can see to find any independant reviews

or review videos about it.

I don't really want to see the finished shots it's the user review I'm after like the link I posted earlier. These products are

normally developed by by single individuals that seem to be all over these forums personally defending the products.

Great but hard to tell what is. Impartial.

<p>Check this review out <a href="http://vimeo.com/37899070">http://vimeo.com/37899070</a> he actually mentions the Merlin head towards the end. <br>

The Merlin looks like a nice bit of kit but I have subsequently seen a few negative or highly technical/ customised posts about it. It also doesn't appear to be that portable. I love the Android control though and wish the eMotimo featured something similar. <br>

That said the eMotio is currently winning my money due to its size and simplicity and lack of mathematics required. <br>

Saying that the Genie certainly looks like a market winner when it is eventually released. </p>

<p>Actually the payload isn't that much of an issue to me as the friend I am buying it for only has a Canon 550d and a small HD camcorder. I cant see him upgrading substantially for some time and certainly never about 5D size.<br>

So the priority to me is most probably functionality and size as this item will be taken up mountains etc. <br>

I am also not worried about FULL dexterity being able to tilt to the zenith. As long is it has a good range that should be just fine. <br>

The link you sent looks great although probably a little too bulky and feature heavy for his current needs. <br>

I am surprised somebody hasn't built a motorised head that is constructed in a modular way allowing things like dolly panning to be added later when and if needed.</p>

Hello all,

I am trying to find a good (great), compact and user friendly product that enables programable, motorised panning for dslr timelapse. It is

a gift for a friend so needs to be und $1000 as clearly my generosity has bounds. So far I have discovered the following:

- The SYRP Genie - This product seems perfect although it has only just been through kick starter and the initial investment phase is over

meaning I won't be getting my hands on one for a while.

- eMotimo PT - Whilst this seems to have good dexterity and program options it's build seems crude and needs a separate batter pack

which makes it bulky. Still an option though.

- The Gadget Works AutoMate - This seems a good option but I have seen quite a few negative reviews/ experiences. It also has a

limited angle range 30 degrees vertically and needs to be controlled by PDA (who the hell has one of those these days) or an Android

phone (I presume an Android tablet would also be applicable).

- GigaPan Epic 100 - These options seem aimed a point and short users. I may be wrong here. They also seem a little large and not

poor-weather-friendly.

Would really appreciate some advice here as it seems to be a bit of an odd Entrepreneurial market where the owners/ designers are all

over the forums. Great but it then becomes hard to obtained impartial advice. I hope any owners don't pop up on this thread.

Thanks,

Adam

I have also been reading a bit about fine tuning the AF on lenses. Does the need to fine tune a lens tend to increase the

older it gets.

Oh really. And what exactly is delicate about this lens? Do you know what tends to go wrong, is it any specific part in

particular or just a general comment?

Maurice,

As I understand it those lenses are a step up in the wallet department are they not. I think that is for something down the

road.

Thanks Wouter, thanks exactly the info I'm looking for.

Also, so as I understand both the lenses I have listed have VR but they won't list VR II as they are simply the first edition

of those particular models. Correct?

Yes this does help thank you. OK so these lenses appear to be reasonably good value.

Yes I understand that there are risks buying from eBay and even more so when used. The advantage of using Dubbizle

which is almost exclusively based in Dubai where I live is that you always review, test and collect in person whatever you

buy. I've bought and sold cars, cameras and apartments on it you simply don't buy anything substandard.

So that leads me to my second question. What should you be looking for when buying a used lens?

<p>Hello all,</p>

<p>I recently posted a question about the Nikon D300s <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00aaZC">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00aaZC</a> from the responses I received I decided to sell and buy the D7000 as it seems to suite my needs better.<br>

I also have the Nikkor 18-200mm VR II and after more research I am planning to now sell this and replace it with the 16-85mm VR and the 70 - 300mm VR. <br>

My question is do these lenses have older versions and shouldn't they be VR II? The reason for asking is that there seems to be some really good value buys (if they are indeed flawless like they claim to be) on my local version of ebay, Dubizzle. I have included two searches below and just wonder if the cut prices are due to old, outdated models.<br>

Also when buying a lens second hand what are good things to look for as tale tale signs of mistreatment, flaws or age?<br>

Nikkor 16 - 80 <a href="http://dubai.dubizzle.com/search/?keywords=nikkor+16+-+85+VR&is_basic_search_widget=1&is_search=1">http://dubai.dubizzle.com/search/?keywords=nikkor+16+-+85+VR&is_basic_search_widget=1&is_search=1</a><br>

Nikkor 70 - 300 <a href="http://dubai.dubizzle.com/search/?keywords=nikkor+70+-+300+vr&is_basic_search_widget=1&is_search=1">http://dubai.dubizzle.com/search/?keywords=nikkor+70+-+300+vr&is_basic_search_widget=1&is_search=1</a><br>

Thanks,<br>

Adam</p>