richard_wrede

<p>I'll post pictures... also, it looks to be nearly brand new and doesn't appear to have been tampered with.</p>

<p>On the Luna-Pro S dial, there is a ring you can set for correcting exposure. For example, you are using a filter that has a "x4" correction on it so you can set this ring to "4" on the LV correction scale and ..."it will automatically correct for the filter"... well, It only works if you first take a reading, set the dial as normal, then adjust that ring to 4 but subsequent readings aren't automatically corrected as the instructions indicate...<br>

lets say you get a reading of 18 on the scale, you set it to 18, it says (ASA 100) 1/125 @ f/8 so yes if you turn the correcting ring to 4 (2EV) it's going to say 1/125 @ f/4. BUT if you leave the correction ring at 4 (like the manual instructs), take another reading and get say 18 again, and set the dial to 18, it says 1/125 @ f/8, not f/4 like it should as per the instruction manual (says "It Will Automatically take into consideration..."...)<br>

Am I doing something wrong? or are you supposed to set it every time and I'm mis-reading the manual?<br>

http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/gossen_luna-pro-s.pdf</p>

<p>I got everything off (bottom winder model) except the tripod socket with the film plate release lever. My instincts tell me there are some screw(s) under that ring of leatherette but I'm not willing to experiment and ruin the leatherette in hopes there is another way they attached it? It's holding up my CLA Thanks </p>

<p>PS: I've searched everywhere using a hundred different quarrie titles. there is next to nothing on repairing these cameras other that RF cleaning/adjust and sticky shutters</p>

<p>I blew a chance to get a vintage $40-80 Canon S-50 hood (slip-on 50mm), 'NOS' for $0.99, the auction ended and yes it sold for .99 before I could put in a bid. it would have slipped on perfect and looked great too.<br>

I never used a Rangefinder camera when I was younger, we all had SLR's. Our school (circa 1975-79) had a Pentax K1000 and a Yashica TLR I loved the TLR. My Uncle had a Leica f? and I thought it was Heavy and hard to focus and not impressed. (dumb teenagers Huh?) wish I had it now. (maybe I should give my Aunt a call...)</p>

<p>Yes, that's what I was figuring after I saw that, just the adapter alone cuts 1/3 (after that the hood doesn't add anything). I was thinking (like you) that the angle-of-view of the meter is causing it to see black in it's 'upper view' The camera looks really hot with the hood, I can adjust the ASA if I have to.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3535/13019812395_40a0aaeb5c.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="381" /> </p>

<p>Here's what happens on my Canonet QL17 G-III. the cds cell is in good condition. If I put the UV filter/hood combo on the reading is off by 1 stop. With just just the hood it is off by only 1/3 stop. I'm using a 55mm filter/hood thread on a 48mm lens thread with an adapter , when you look straight on at the CDS there is no blockage. I've tested it looking at a neutral scene with nothing that could be making a difference, ie. no sky, etc.</p>

<p>I guess I want to know if this is normal? I mean, the whole ides of putting the CDS cell on the lens ring is so the meter reads what the filter sees, yet it seems to throw the meter off, because just the filter glass (centered over the CDS) has very little if any effect but screw on the filter it seems to have an eclipse effect</p>

<p>anybody know where to get a take-up spool? I have tried DAG and ebay</p>

<p>Oops, that has a 1000 top speed, mine has the 500 top speed, must be a 1954 variant of a Tower 3-S... I conquer ... so many types and variants... thanks (tail between legs)</p>

<p>I saw those but mine has a different slow-speed dial, those have the 20-1, mine has the 25-1. I just found this here, an exact Nicca version of mine, a Nicca Type-4 <a href="../leica-rangefinders-forum/00QPUZ">http://www.photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00QPUZ</a> but I can't find the equal Tower name for a Nicca Type-4</p>

<p>I recently bought a Tower camera and don't know the actual "Type" or model it is. The listing was for a Type 48 but he later said someone told him it was a 3-S. Searching Google and seeing different models, none look like mine. here is a link to the posting with the pics. http://tinyurl.com/czy6z6w <br>

slight differences in the models I've found so far, mine has the pc connections on front, a film frame counter under the advance knob, just a Tower logo, a film type reminder embedded into the film advance knob and the adjustable eyepiece in back, not the black double eyepiece. The 3-s I've seen says right on the top, Type 3-S (also the type 3) I found a few Type 48 online but they have no pc connection in front no frame counter and the black double eyepiece. Serial #51770 on body and a red 25-1 on the fast shutter speed not a 20-1 I've seen on others.<br>

I'm wanting to know exactly what model it is for correct reference, finding info, posting info etc. I don't want to post "not sure what model this is but I think it's a..." in image forums and the like. </p>

<p>Is $135 a good price for a Nicca Type IIIs (body) that is in good working order, shutter curtaind good, focus good slight aging on leatherette?</p>

<p>I just got an Agfa Super Silette with the Syncro-Compur shutter, Solagon 50mm 1:2 lens. I've Googled and searched far and wide and can't find a manual for it. I've found the manuals for the one with the Prontor-SV shutter, 45mm 1:3.5 lens. Any ideas?</p>

<p>Thanks all!</p>

<p>If I set the shutter dial between 300 and 100 will I get 200? I don't think it works that way but doesn't hurt to ask...</p>

<p>I bought this camera on eBay but I sent it back (long story) but I loved the clips for the neck strap. (should have kept them, the creep still owes me a refund) I remember them from other cameras as a youth, these said Yashica on them but I've seen others, they are metal loops with a sliding plastic keeper for quick on and off. I've searched extensively on eBay and Google to no avail, maybe I just don't know what to call them (camera strap clips, quick release clips got bupkiss) </p><div></div>

<p>This may or may not be a dumb question... when you're not using your camera, will the zinc-air battery last longer if you put the seal/tab back on it?</p>

<p>One came with the scanner I got. Yay! it wasn't mentioned in the auction so I thought I might have to get one separate. there was a holder on eBay for $25, more than I paid for the scanner, glad it had one.</p>

<p>Yes there is an updated Win 7 64 bit. I like it so far, much better quality than the Labs. the negs are easier than slides as far as tweaking and correcting.</p>

<p>got my new scanner for negs and film, quick question, what's better 24 bit color or 48 bit color. It (Epson V100) defaults to 24 bit, was just wondering will scans look better with 24 or 48? can't really tell yet</p>

<p>that didn't do it...</p>

<p>My wife's L100 quit working just like that. changed to fresh batteries and it won't turn back on, tried many batteries, Duracel and rechargable. any clues? Google is no help.</p>

<p>Cool, it's so thin (the lid) I assumed it was some other way it worked.</p>

<p>I'm not sure how the Epson V100, V200 etc.models work as they don't have a "back light" , yet people rave over the results. How does it work anyway (without a backlite) I suppose that may be a reason for the brackets?</p>

<p>It is capable of scanning film and negatives, it just is missing the "film holder", anyone familiar with the Epson V200 know if I need that tray or is it just an aid to keep the film straight? I can get a holder but it is an extra 25$<br>

What do you mean by "I need to move on?"</p>

<p>I'm looking at an Epson V200 on eBay but it has no negative tray, are they really necessary or just an aid tool?</p>