melandkeifspics

What's your preferred one or two light setup for indoor/outdoor family/group portraits (5-15 people)?

Could he simply be pointing the flash directly at the crowd during dancing pics while dragging the shutter or do you think he is bouncing somehow?

I was wondering what your thoughts were on how Ross Harvey lights his receptions (speeches, dancing, etc). Check out his incredible blog, http://www.rossharvey.com/weddings/lake-como-erba-gastel-wedding.

<p>Thanks for everyone's input. I have taken measures to better my technique with better positioning, holding, and breathing. I'd say that things are a bit better, but I have yet to achieve a vertical image as sharp as a horizontal one. I will keep at it. Maybe the physics of the way the mirror flaps in portrait orientation will never allow for this?</p>

<p>It's the Canon 70-200 f2.8 is II and IS #1 was enabled for all te shots. I will turn it off for shots done on a tripod, but in reality, I rarely use a tripod. I only did so to see if the issues I have been experiencing were a result of my having a non steady hold when shooting vertically.</p> <p>I am not using the lens mount when using a tripod. Again, I will do so to see if the results change.</p> <p>Ultimately I was just wondering if people in general need to use higher shutter speeds when shooting vertically with a telephoto lens.</p>

<p>It's the Canon 70-200 f2.8 is II and IS #1 was enabled for all te shots. I will turn it off for shots done on a tripod, but in reality, I rarely use a tripod. I only did so to see if the issues I have been experiencing were a result of my having a non steady hold when shooting vertically.</p> <p>I am not using the lens mount when using a tripod. Again, I will do so to see if the results change.</p> <p>Ultimately I was just wondering if people in general need to use higher shutter speeds when shooting vertically with a telephoto lens.</p>

<p>Recently I've been kind of pixel peeping at my own images and noticed that when shooting vertically (even with a tripod), my images are not as sharp as when taking the same photo horizontally. At first I attributed this phenomenon with poor technique when hand holding. While I do know that my barrel hand tends to shake more when holding the camera higher (a necessity in order to get the viewfinder up to eye level), I was a very surprised to see that images using a tripod and a focus test chart produced similar discrepancies between photos taken horizontally vs vertically. What's going on? </p> <p>What do you guys do to get sharoer images when shooting vertically and hand held? Do you instinctively raise the shutter speed and ISO? Is the blurriness of vertical images taken on a tripod a result of how the mirror vibrates when the camera is in that position?</p> <p>TIA.</p>

<p>Hello, everyone. I'm new to the group and not very advanced in Photoshop, but there are three photographers who's post processing I love and can see really bring their photos to a different level. While these are three different and distint photographers, it appears that they have a similar style for PP. Can anyone shed some light on what they do to chieve this look? I'm a self taught person and I'm more than willing to figure how to use these techniques, but I just need a little direction. Thanks in advance.<br /><br /><a href="/photodb/folder?folder_id=1087364">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=1087364</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p> <p> </p>

<p>I'm using all manual settings. The issue seems that everytime I change the flowers, the background is affected. I'm assuming that the colors of the flowers and their size is casting weird shadows and colours that are affecting the backgroiund wall that is relatively close. I don't have a large space to work with. Just a tiny 10x10 room. What do you suppose is happening with my background considering all camera setting are constant?</p>

<p>I am trying to shoot a variety of different sized floral arrangements against a white wall. I'd like to keep the backgorund a light grey. What is the best setup to achieve a constantly grey background using a white wall using a three speedlite setup or any other setup given the chance? <br /><br />Right now, I've attempted shooting the arrangements with two speedlites through shoot through umbrellas setup at 45 degrees on either side of the subject and about 1 foot away. The subject is merely 2 feet away from the background wall and I've been getting very inconsistent results when it comes to the background color/exposure.</p>

<p>Every time I edit a wedding I have the hardest time with the church ceremony. For one, I try to avoid using flash and I have to crank my ISO pretty high, especially when shooting with a 70-200mm. Even at 2.8 (which when shooting from an angle is not ideal to get both bride and groom in focus), I find that I have to crank my 5DM3 to 6400 ISO. But more frustrating than that is my inability to nail my white balance. Sometimes the images are yellow (from the indoor lighting), sometimes green (from window light bouncing off the painted walls), sometimes too blue (when the bride walks in from the outside. What do you guys do to combat all the different lighting and color temp difference from different spots with a church?<br /><br />One thought I had was to take a photo of someone holding a grey card in each spot/angle I know where I'll be shooting, but a lot of times I don't have the luxury of time and I need to shoot the actual ceremony. Help....</p>

<p>Thanks guys... You have helped... I do have a laptop that I can use instead of my desktop, so I will buy more readers to connect to my laptop that will be connected to an external drive and perform the transfer without bogging down my desktop.</p>

<p>What solution do you use to download multiple cards after a long wedding day shoot? I'd love to be able to plug all my cards into one device and have them download overnight instead of having to use my single card reader and wait for each card individually. I suppose I could buy multiple card readers and just connect them to my computer. What do you guys do?</p>

<p>For me it varies, but yesterday after importing my RAW files, it took me almost 2 hours to go through 3000 images checking for focus, sharpness, closed eyes (for couple and group shots), complete under/over exposure, floor pics (yes my trigger finger can get the best of me sometimes). In the end I usually have about 1000 images that I don't mind presenting to the client for proofing. I use ACDSee which is very much like PhotoMechanic and way faster than LR for culling. I'm also starting to incorporate creating proxy DNG files for faster workflow, but that's a debate for another day. Thanks, everyone.</p>

<p>Whether it's 300 images or 500 images from any particular job, I was wondering what your average speeds were. I chose 1000 at random, but what I was hoping for was your time per 100 photos to gage if I'm moving just waaaay too slow. Thanks</p>

<p>How fast do can you cull through 1000 wedding images? I'm not so concerned with the final number, but the total amount that you went through. </p>

<p>Recently watched a CreativeLive workshop regarding workflow and one of the first things before editing a wedding that they did was ensure that properly adjusted the camera calibration in Lightroom (especially when editing shots from more than one camera (ie Nikon shooter and Canon shooter). What do you guys think of that? Do you select a profile and adjust the sliders in anyway? Do you use any form of software to ensure proper color correction? How important is such a thing to you?</p>

<p>If I properly calibrate my screen using , say, a Spyder pro, how important is it to still use the print labs ICC profile? For example, album makers like Graphistudio don't openly provide an ICC profile, but they do recommend that your monitor be calibrated. Is that all you really need for any lab or album maker? Is it really as easy as making sure your monitor is calibrated and you can be assured that your prints will come out pretty close to how you edited them?</p>

The AF-ON button in my 5DM3 doesn't spring back like the other buttons on the back of my camera. The function itself works and I can still focus, but the button itself is loose and doesn't pop back out after being depressed. Has anyone been through this? I have a bad feeling that I'm gonna have to send it in again. What to do?

<p>UPDATE: I have had my Canon 5DMIII serviced at Canon and they replaced the main PCB under warranty. They didn't offer an explanation, but I do know that the board cost appx $250. They also threw in the replacement of a focusing screen that I had requested they change. No charge. Sweet. Love those guys.</p>