jepper_jet

Well ive been googling around since i wrote this and found out thatit can be that im not spooling the film tightly enough . Its kind hard to

tighten it as this is all plastic and moves when tightend

Hi rob f. Thanks for your answer.. Idid what you said and found the lightleaks. A correction: its not a diana no 151 as i wrote. Its diana

162b. With flash and it turned out that there where holes where the flash conection ( kobber lines) is going through the house tto the flash

insert holes. I have fixed this now so my next question is how a make sure to wind up the film onto the take up spool in a propper way. It

seems that when im photographing the film sometimes make a curly fold so it makes a exposure on that too. I will uploade one of the

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I know they,in modern time are supposed to give lightleaks and its kind oft trade markeofthese cameras, but not mine:)...id likethemto be

sealed more or less. This light. Leakis getting anoying and is to much for my taste. Now i can feel that when thersa film in it it kind of

jumps a littel when im rewinding to next frame . I think itis here the filmis not rewinding probaply pushing the back from the rest of the

camera creating this leak. Ive tryied to give the rewinding knop a drop of oile to make a more smooth rewinding making sure the film is

spooled tightly . Also ive taped it up but still i get this DAM light leak. Now im allmost ready to get rid of it but... I love these cameras and i

want to give it another go if anyone in here has any surgestions to fix this. Please se the attached image. Thanks

Hey guys... Did i say london? Yes. I did. Sorry . I meant berlin.... So no worries ... Berlin ...the city of freedom and openmindness. Love

this city btw.. Ok so ill try with a portra 800 set to cloudy...... Maybe the best way! Thanks for showing these subway pictures. Very

inspiring.

Hi there.. Im going to london and im planing to photograph also in the subway with my diana 151. so im wondering wich iso would be the

better one for this. Theres only three settings on the camera : cloudy ( f19) , partly cloudy (f 13) and sunny (f11) approx. It can be color

neg. As wel as slides or bw. Thanks

Im about to buy a agfa clack, click l or a click ll. So i wonder how to do dobbelt exposure with one of these cameras? Any ideas, links or

else will be mich appreciatet :-)

Thanks for all that geat answers that i will take into consideration :-). I guees somewhtat thats its project taking up time, money and

space. But photography is my hobby so i dont mind. It seems to me that allways having some kind of project in my head make me a

happy man. When i started out developing my own film people told me that i was ok for b&w but color was waaaaaaaaaay to difficult. But

to those who once told me that: what is the difference in hitting 20 degrees or 39 degrees??? -nothing. I guees the enlarger process is

not that difficult either but getting the right equipment and place to work can be a challenge:-) thaks all for your answers. I will stil be

reading this thread if new answers is coming on.

I just went to buy some b&w film for my new fuJi gw 690ll in my local photostore. The guy convinced me to try enlarging my self using

/buying a used enlarger . Now he didnt know im shooting 6x9 ..thats why im asking for a goos advice on getting one of these things. My

dream is to make large enlargements but for a beginner smaller is also good... Which one is good to get and what do i need in terms of

objektives and filters and so on? Thanks so much for any surgestions :-)

Thanks dave .. I really intent to just enjoy and shoot away:) i like this camera very much allready and yes ...its like you

describe ... One blade bend out a littel at the tip. Nice to hear that it is something there is supposed to be there . I feel

reliefed allready .. Thaks so much. Kind regards jepper

Hi there. I just purchased a fuji gw690 on ebay . It looks nice all over but i discovered what appears to be a littel bit bent aparture blade.

Kust bent ever so slightly in the end. Does this affect the shutter time in anyway and can this mean light passing through to the film or

can i be lucky enough that it dosent do anything? Kind regards jepper

Oh sorry ...heres the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/290930981118?

ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649

Hi there. Im about to buy a mamiya universal press without a handgrip so i found this old press handgrip on ebay in uk and now wonder if

this fits right on the universal black edition? Thanks in advance

Hey eddie. I read your post but i cant seem to find any tungsten film... Do you know if they exist anymore. The only one i could find is

lomography x tungsten 64...

Thanks for your replies. I guess that color filtering then is just the same as using photoshop today... Colorbalance, levels,

curves or what ever one prefers... And to bill ...yes....your right. And to shawn .. I kind of got tired of digital thinking i could

get more interesting images by shooting analoge .... But now i really dont know if its all that trouble worth. :-)

One even says " When cross-processed, the E100G produces great blue skies." ... No it dosent it produces greenish

cyan skies..

http://www.lomography.com/magazine/reviews/2011/08/09/a-favorite-to-cross-process-kodak-ektachrome-e100g

The last year ive been crossprocessing different slidefilms. agfa prcisa 100, velvia 50, provia 400x, provia 100f, kodak e 100g. I was

really going for all the colorfull looks that are posted on the internet when i googeld one of these filmsand crossprocessing. I soon learned

that when letting the scanner software ( i use vuescan) determine the scan it is really no problem getting all sorts of color because now its

digital and not so much analog when in the scanning process. Soi guess this is not the true corssprocessed negative right? Then i slowly

began adapting the real and true process by setting the scanner software to none color management , importing it in to photoshop and

inverting the negative . When this is done youve got the real true result of the crosprocessing and this is my point all turn out green and

cyan. Provia 400 x a littel more bluish. playing around with levels can get you another result. So my question is:why all this hype about

analog crossprocessing when they all turn out this way ( i know velvia 100 gets more redish) . And why all these fake discriptions on

these different films getting nice nice funky colors when getting crossprocessed when it is the scanner software. Just try ex. Googeling

crossprocessed kodak e100g...or one of the others..