kylebybee

<p>A couple of weekends ago my wife and I drove my mom and dad to where he was born and raised. He hadn't been back there since....he couldn't remember, he is 88 years old and turns 89 in March.</p> <div></div>

To start out I plan on concentrating on portraits rather than weddings. I have a full time job so for now it's still learning and getting experience. Hear is what I've got on my wish list at B&H, Westcott octa rapid box 26" with stand, Westcott illumination reflector kit 6 in 1 42" square, Impact multiboom light stand and reflector holder, Sigma 50-150 old version used, used D7000 (second body), OP/Tech dual harness. With one flash (sb800) and the reflector I'll get by for now. Eventually I will go full frame even though I could make due......baby steps. Thank you again everyone for your generous input, I appreciate it.

<p>Just noticed something, with AF-C the auto assist light doesn't come on on my D7000, I turn it AF-S and the light comes on. This is just an observation. </p>

<p>Pete, I looked at the older version of the 50-150 and it seems to not have image stabilization. Did you miss not having that?</p>

<p>Thank you "everyone" for your thoughts and concerns, they are appreciated. I will let everyone know what happens in the near future. </p>

<p>On FX bodies, D800, D810, or to start with D610? </p>

<p>So Rodeo Joe, which FX lens would you acquire first? the 70-200 or the 24-70? Since I have the wider end covered with the D7000 I think that maybe the 70-200 for the FX body would be best, do you agree? Then later as the paying shoots come around invest in more FX lenses.</p>

<p>Oh any recommendations on full frame body would be welcome as well.</p>

<p>I've had this lens on my want list for some time. I shoot with the D7000 and currently have the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX, Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 (newer version), and the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. I'm accumulating lighting equipment to start doing portrait work, I have an SB800 and the Photix Obin TTL radio trigger system. I have a soft box/light stand, reflector set with stand on wish list at B&H. Eventually I will want to add FX body for my work. The question is should I forgo the 50-150 lens and use that money toward FX body. Currently the only lens I have that is full frame is the Tamron 70-300 so I would need to also purchase a 24-70 f/2.8 (to start with) with the new body. I should mention that the intended use for the new Sigma lens would be primarily for the portrait/wedding work. The thing I'm wrestling with is being redundant with DX and FX lenses eventually. When going to FX I would still keep the D7000 as back up. Your thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.</p>

Thanks everyone, you all have been helpful.......now I need to practice practice

That's good information Dieter, so I shouldn't expect the little focus square to follow my subject, but the camera will still keep moving subject in focus? Jus to clarify.

I'll have to try holding the button down and see if the focus point tracks, thanks.

So what if the subject your shooting happens to be moving? That's my issue the focus tracking seems to be disabled when a made my changes

Lately I've been asking a lot of different questions and I'm glad I have this site to fall back on, thank you in advance. I shoot with the D7000, and recently have been learning to use my Ae/Al button as my auto focus button. I'm having issues, how I have it set up is, auto-C, 39 focus points, and the obvious menu setting where it only focuses when I press the back button. The issue is that only 1 focus square appears in the view finder and I have to move manually to change the focus position. I was told that by using the back button for auto focus it's faster, but not the way It's going for me. What do I need to do different so that the focus points move and lock automatically.

<p>Just one, I call it "Get the Point!?!"</p><div></div>

Thank you everyone for the input. I appreciate being able to come somewhere and get experienced advise.

The band I was shooting were acquaintances and a non paying shoot (practice). A question I have is do bands pay for these photos op's? And are they as profitable as say a portrait session or small wedding?

Jeff when you talk about flash, are you recommending with soft box? I tried my SB 800 with the little dome diffuser and didn't like the look. I was in TTL mode and am new with flash so maybe I could have gotten a better look if I knew what to do.

I was using 1600 ISO and that was still limiting my shutter to around 1/20- 1/30, which wouldn't freeze the fast hand movements of strumming. The only thing saving me was LR noise reduction.

<p>This is an update to an earlier post. I shot the blue grass band last night, and I learned something, bars and low light conditions are demanding on your shutter speed and high ISO. My poor D7000 was having a hard time, or maybe I was. Anyway if I continue to shoot this type of stuff I can see a body with good high ISO performance in my future along with another lens or two. Oh and I shot one or two frames with flash to see how it looked and didn't like it.</p><div></div>