chris moseley
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Posts posted by chris moseley
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I've got the same problem and am looking at scratches on Kodak BW400CN Film (35mm), which i realize is a color process B&W film, and cannot tell which side is base, which is emulsion. Is there an easy way to tell?
Also, if something inside the camera is scratching the film, would it be consistent (i.e. scratching the whole roll)?
Chris
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OK Mamiya TLR (C330 Pro) experts, can you help me ID a part that
came with the 180mm lens I bought? Inside a pouch/sleeve in the top
part of the leather lens case is a small, black square frame-looking
part labeled 180mm. The aperture/opening is much smaller than 120mm.
Does anyone have a clue what this is?
Chris M
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I agree with the gentlemen above who give a thumbs up shooting black & white film. Jeff A - why are you shooting the C-processing type film as opposed to real ("gelatin silver") black & white film? Is it for the scanning (or ease, thereof?)?
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OK - hope this helps <html>
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<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006gO7">Look at
this thread </a>
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Here's the actual image (follow the link above for more). Sorry about that!
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Using available light (no flash) with shutter speeds of 1/1600 or
higher, parts of my images are blacked out (like the mirror is not
moving quickly enough). The black area grows with faster shutter
speeds.
This occurs in any mode (AV, TV, M) or ISO when shot at 1/1600 or
higher.
Problem occurs with multiple Canon lenses (85/1.8, 70-200 2.8L).
Dealer had no clue. Sent to Canon support, who, after three weeks
returned camera saying they had fixed it and if the problem
persisted to "send the camera back with a lens." (did they have no
lens handy to try on the camera?).
Go here for images + exif: <a
href="http://www.chrismoseley.com/rebel_problems/index0.html">link
to images</a>
Based upon other suggestions, I'll add:
no foreign objects exist in the camera - verified by canon usa
I'm not using the flash (as said earlier).
The Rebel still does not work. Ideas?
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What's the goal of a curt response? Teaching a lesson ("that'll teach them not to look before they post!")?
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Try www.mpix.com, the consumer division of Millers Lab, one of the nation's largest wedding/portrait labs. MPIX offers matte or metallic paper, mounting, retouching and even canvas mounting. You'll like them!
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If you're new to wedding photography, shoot film. I'm not comfortable using slide film at a wedding. Negatives give you much more over/under exposure latitude. For color, I like Kodak's Portra 400 VC (shot at 320) and Portra 800 (shot at 400 at night when I use flash, 640 for daylight).
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If you want to wait until the Rebel drops to US $700, you'll be buying your camera around Jan 1, 2005.
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Phil - who's questioning "all DRebels?" Is it not fair to hear if this problem has happened to anyone else -- who might know a quick fix for it?
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A lot of this depends upon where you're getting them processed. Is the lab just running them through without any adjustment (my pro lab sharpens files)? You will get sharper prints from L series lenses, but you shouldn't get "soft" prints just b/c you're using the 28-135 IS. How sharp/soft are the prints made from Film with the 28-135?
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Some shots of blue sky taken at different shutter speeds on AV mode with basic
EXIF info are posted <b><a href="http://www.chrismoseley.com/rebel/index0.html">here.
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Good grief. "Just pay more attention to your meter, your shooting conditions, and less about what speed you desire." You couldn't be more far from the mark with your comments.
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1st Problem with Canon EOS 300D/Digital Rebel. Using available light
(no flash) with shutter speeds of 1/1600 or higher, parts of my
images are blacked out (like the mirror is not moving quickly
enough). The black area grows with faster shutter speeds. This
occurs in any mode (AV, TV, M) you can shoot at these speeds. Does
it on multiple Canon lenses (85/1.8, 70-200 2.8L). Dealer had no
clue. Canon support (no surprise) did not respond to my email and
their tel help desk said I needed to send it in. Any clue?<div></div>
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Does anyone know how to change the 550EX settings to make this happen?
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Experts, lend me your ears, and your advice. Recently shot at a
wedding in the darkest church I've seen to date. Had problems with
my color film images made under the balcony overhang - where it was
pitch dark -- with the subjects being backlit. This is one of the
better images shot in the sequence. Take a look at this underexposed
image made with A2E, 20-35 lens @ 25mm, Manual Setting f5.6 @ 1/60,
540EZ set on TTL - on a bracket above camera attached with offshoe
connecting cord - Fuji Press 400 - shot at 400. Camera rotated
vertically on bracket with flash staying atop - in same position.
Did this cause the underexposure? or too far? I'll stop guessing and
let you help me (keyword: help) - if you please.
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Competitive Camera on Irving Blvd.
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For years I tried to work with BWC. Their work was good, but man oh man was it frustrating to pick up an order there. Keystone Cops, Three Stooges...whatever you call it, it was always a disaster to find my order. It literally would take 10, 15, 30 minutes to find the order they just called and told me was ready. Go to FlashBack in Dallas (at Medallion Center) www.flash-back.com where you can actually get some personalized service.
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Is there a way to "IGNORE" a certain user's comments so you never, ever see them?
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Yakim - thanks, I should have defined "trusty" as reliable + dependable. For anyone who has shot with the A2, A2E or EOS 5 and then upgraded to the EOS 3 or EOS 1V: Have you noticed a big difference in the FLASH METERING? Are you getting better FLASH results with the EX flashes and the 3 or 1V's metering combo than with your A2?
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Marc - thanks for the great post. Did each image have to be "tweaked" (levels? curves?) in P'Shop? Also, I too would love to know your flash combination: which Lumiquest product? Flash setting? Camera Setting/Mode?
Chris Moseley
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I forgot to add that I use the 540EZ flash..
Billingham M Combination Bag - interior
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted