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todd_phillips1

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Posts posted by todd_phillips1

  1. The M4-P with its .72 viewfinder should be fine for a 50 or 35mm lens.

    I wear glasses and the 35mm frame is still usable even though I do push the lens of my glasses against the veiwfinder.

     

    My only V'lander lens is the 15 and I'm quite satisfied with it. I also have a 50mm external brightline finder that is very well made. You probably wont be disappointed with V'lander lenses.

  2. I'm strictly a film shooter and three zoom Nikkors handle 90% of my 35mm assignment shooting. The 20-35 2.8 is my standard lens. Very sharp and MUCH smaller than the 28-70 2.8. My 35-70 2.8 is used for a lot of location strobe work and it cuts like a knife. I have 16X20's made from 35mm chromes that are outstanding. And when I need a tele lens, then the 80-200 2.8 AFS fits the bill. Again, outstanding sharpness and the focus speed is great.

     

    You can't go wrong with any or all of these lense. Some are very affordable right now.

  3. My 35 3:5 Summaron is the M2 typw without eyes, but they are the same lens as the ones with eyes.

     

    I keep mine mounted on an M2 as its standard lens and have been very happy with the results. My version 4 35 "Cron is a bit sharper and has more contrast (as it should), but since I use the M2 almost exclusively with B&W film I'm very happy with the Summaron.

     

    If you get one, it will probably need a cleaning if it hasn't had one so be sure to factor that into the purchase unless the seller can confirm a cla.

  4. I recently found a small repair shop (and sales of used merchandise) in Springfield, IL (Hill Camera Repair). He did an excellent job on a CLA of a NIkon F and equally well including adjusting a loose lens element on a Zeiss Ikonta.

     

    They are by their statement, "Hanging on by a thread" because of the digital sunami. Give them a try if you can...they are of the "old school" and these people are getting harder and harder to find.

  5. I, too, really liked this lens. In fact, one of my 16X20 merit prints for my Master of Photography degree from the PPofA was made with it. I didn't find it soft at all. I also used it for a lot of outdoor portrait chromes for my stock agency.

     

    It is very light, though does take up some space in a travel kit. I've been told that the 180 Sonnar (which I have and is a fantastic lens) with the Hassy 2X converter is just as good or even better.

  6. Dan,

     

    You might consider carrying a Leitz table top tripod. It will easily hold your Fuji and breaks down to almost nothing. Not heavy at all. This might enable you to use a 100 speed film....

     

    BUT...do you use filters for your B&W work? If you do (and even a yellow filter will cost a stop or stop and 1/2) then you're going to have to go to a faster film. Tri-X and HP5 are both great with a slight nod to Tri-X. If your Fuji shoots 645 negs, you should get great 16X20 enlargements. If your Fuji shoots larger negs, then there is no problem at all.

  7. As others have said, it supposed to move like that. The plastic tip on my M4-2 did break somehow (this was years ago before I sold it). I wrote Leica on my studio letter head and they sent me a new plastic piece at no charge.

     

    Don't know if that would happen today (mine was probably 15+ yrs ago).

    But at $10 from Sherry, I wouldn't worry.

  8. I got back into rangefinders with a Contax G1 and 21,35,45,90 lenses. I took some great images with them, the 21 and 35 being my favorites (or maybe they were just my most used lenses). My main problem was with the G1 viewfinder. While it worked OK in that it adjusted to distance, it just wasn't a Leica viewfinder.

     

    So I switched a little after Andy did. I believe the Leica bodies are much more robust (though I don't abuse any camera body) and the viewfinder is great. As for the lenses, side by side....they are both marvelous. Zeiss are probably a bit warmer, but if I'm shooting slides with my Leica I always use a 81A filter anyway.

     

    My main concern NOW would be repairs. We know we've got a few ace repair people for Leica, but if the chip in Contax G's goes bad...???

  9. I known that Kodak has discontinued Vericrome Pan in the US. Anchell's book

    says it is still made and available in South America (granted, this book is

    several years old). Does anyone know if it IS still available and IS there

    anyplace to get it in the US? If is is still available, I thought someone

    might be importing it.

     

    I've still got 12 rolls of APX left and FP4 is OK, but if I can get some of

    this to try....

     

    Thanks is advance.

  10. Tom,

     

    I should let you know that I FINALLY recieved my correct slides form Dwayne's a little over a month after I returned the incorrect roll. My letter was included with a hand written note saying, "this order is now complete". That was it. No apology, no reimbursement of stamps to mail the incorrect roll back, no free film or new mailer.

    Also a couple of the first slides has some spots on them that I can't get off.

     

    I have since sold my remaining Fuji mailers and since I haven't shot Kodachrome for years, I don't have to worry about Dwayne's anymore.

  11. A 'Blad is not a bad choice if you are going to carry MF equipment on a trip. The main thing is to NOT get your kit so heavy that it ruins your day(s). My choice would be the 'Blad with single lens, probably the 50 as you don't have a 60. The extra back is a good idea as you could shoot two different emulsions or film speeds. But I wouldn't take anything else to add to the weight of the kit. No prism viewfinders or hand grips. Yes, you'll have to use a hand held meter.

     

    I'd also take, as other forum members have said, a small pocketable 35mm camera. This is your back up if the Blad breaks. Keep in mind that in Europe, you're never very far from a large city, so if something happens to the Blad, you probably can get it fixed. Hasselbad used to list its world-wide authorized repair stations. Might be worth a web visit or call to get them. Be sure it's the most current listing. They do add and remove repair houses from the list as I learned from bitter experience.

     

    Enjoy your trip!

  12. I'll second the Hexar 50 on Leica bodies. Mine works perfectly on my M6 and M2.

     

    Someone just bought one in the Leica FS/FT for $300. I think he got a bargain. These are begining to touch used 'Cron prices and, I think, eventually will be even with them.

     

    If you can find a good Hexar, then go for it. If not, then a good used 'Cron is an excellent choice.

  13. I have a friend who has lost the eyepiece of his Hexar RF. A while back, there

    was one or two posts about places that have a replacement (couldn't find them

    in the archives).

     

    I believe one was in the UK and my friend tried that and it bounced. The other

    was something like photostop.net. Both he and I tried that and got nothing.

     

    If someone knows the correct link or address, could they please post it?

     

    He's out of state right now and leaving again very soon, so I'm trying to get

    this info. for him.

     

    Thanks in advance!

  14. I recently sent four rolls in Fuji mailers to Dwayne's. Three came back fine, but the fourth roll was someone else's! I sent it back with a letter on my studio letterhead saying I hope they could locate my slides. That's been almost a month now and I've heard nothing. Not a phone call or letter. No replacement roll and mailer. Nothing!

     

    I will not use Dwayne's again and I would suggest others do the same.

    However if you want to continue to do so, I have six Fuji mailers for sale. $3.75 ea. Exactly what I paid for them.

     

    I hope you have better luck.

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