erik_prestmo

<p>OK a de facto monopoly is tempting, so this has two possible outcome: either Fuji appreciate their market situation and rest assured they can continue this for a long time with nice, sustainable profits....<br />Or they get greedy, think they now rukle their little world and spikes the prices - and kille reversal films, their market and our hobby in one fell swoop.<br /><br />I know what I think will be the outcome, the market is imploding at an unprecedented rate, China and India has given up on film totally that is close to 1/3 OF THE WORLDS POPULATION.<br />They have stopped buyingf cameras too, mobile phones takes over across the globe.</p>

<p>Naaaa, this character apparently is an engineer, eletrical that is, and places a lot of weight on how to get a table salt solution to be really oncentrated (apparently surpriced over the fact you might need heating the water to get a really concentrated solution.......).<br>

But this one is getting out there, now claiming he has fixed images that will survive for days, his fixing time is 24 hours though.......<br /><br />He flatly refuses to test for remaining silver though, on grounds that hemicals are too expensive & hard to get (he mentioned in detail a trip to the sea to get salt sea water costing him 4 euro in petrol and 1 euro for coffe!).<br /><br />Well it would be interesting if its dooable, trouble is so far noone has been able to do what he does (claims to be doing).</p>

<p>There is a guy over at Flickr who claims he is able to fix film with ordinary table salt or even sea water. I dunno I just tell you he said so......</p>

<p>Derek if you have an account on Facebook, one of those "social networks" go here :<br /><br /><a href="http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/171826909533721/">http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/171826909533721/</a><br>

It is a facebook group for discussing Caffenol self-mixed developers of all sorts, and a place to as questions in real time. You will find a couple of guys there with net-addresses to chemicals, in europe, usa and canada....'</p>

 

<p>An Altix-n just landed here. I was wondering if anyone else has this bug, german quality 35mm cameras?</p>

 

<p>Just reporting what I've been told, YMMV.<br /><br />But then in the NAVY, you had but one type of film?</p>

<p>Reaching back standard times in C41......<br />I have a close coworker who in his younger days worked in a processing lab, they segregated film like this, making separate spools for the C41 process machine :<br /><br />Kodak<br />Fuji<br />The rest<br /><br />This was done in order to adjust bath time and running speed, hence developing time as there at that time was 3 separate time regimes and the individual films on the spools was filtered separately but adjusted from 3 separate baselines.<br /><br />To me this indicates that standard time in C41 needs a little more info.</p>

<p>No problem I tried hard to get my ducks in a row, and thought it impossible I could be right.<br /><br />Lets not loose focus on what was important here, I think it can be fun!</p>

<p>If you skip the reversal bath, the color developer would hyave nothing to work with, producing no colors, since the exposed silver was already developed!<br /><br />The colors comes from interaction between the color agents in the 3 emulsions and the reaction remnants from spend color developing agent hooking up withe color agents or dyes, fixing them in place in the emulsion.<br /><br />You have to reexpose the remaining silver to get any development done and hence any colors formed.... naaaaaa dont thhink this would work.<br /><br />Skipping both first developer and reversal bath might work, and apprently so would C41 with less than perfect colors...</p>

<p>If you use E6 chemistry and skip the reversal bath:<br /><br />1 developer develops the negative.<br />Silver remains in film<br /><br />2 skip the reversal bath<br />Silver still remains in film<br /><br />3 color developer develops the positive<br />silver from both the negative and positive inn film<br /><br />4 Blix removes all the silver<br />NOOO wait no silver was developed in 3 because no silver was *exited*.....<br /><br />Nope that cannot be correct?</p>

 

<p>Whatabout skipping first developer, developing it as a negative film??</p>

<p>I have developed KC as B/W with caffenol, its outlined in my blog.<br /><br />If you don't wanna do that or there are important images that you want to see (and B/W is your ONLY option!!) I can do them for you, and return the finished films, but that is work and noone works for free.</p>

<p>I have a Makiflex that is about to be recomissioned into active service.<br /><br />I was wondering if there are anyone else out there with valuable pointers and input?</p>

<p>No that would not work because it is the REEXPOSURE stage that makes it possible to develop each layer seperately. Thosae that came up with KC, wqas sneaky enough to figure out a way to have 3 separate layers thsat was orthocromatic, pancromatic and not sentized, with filering between layers, the reexposure is the trick here, exposing ONE layer only at a time and deve,loping that layer, with dyes, coupled at the same time, repeat until its done.<br /><br />A negative would not work, sinve at the negative stage all layers are exposed in balance....<br />Can't see how this would be possible.</p>

<p>Joachim there is absolutely no problem developing Kodachrome into B/W negative film.<br /><br />I have done so and I mixed my own developer, (even if somebody feels talking about this was inappropiate in this thread, and completely misread it).<br /><br />The only problem was getting rid of the rem-jet black layer, which can be removed by an extra bath beforehand (I have a recipe), I didn't and removed it mechanically after development,m that is with two fingers in in a wetting bath, just pushing the film gently back and forth.<br /><br />I used Caffenol, and developed the film exactly like I develop C41 and even E6 films in caffenol. 3 baths just as with regular B/W.<br /><br />The film came out with a fog and yellow stain, but I got scannable negatives. I have since learned to control fog with potassium bromide KBr, the yellow stain is worse but a scanner cuts right through it.<br /><br />I have pictures and notes on my blog AFAIR.</p>

<p>Links to the KC patents :<br /><br /><a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-64209.html">http://www.apug.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-64209.html</a></p>

<p>Na Larry the general idea was that Kodak should have done that themselves, with their guys and technology, and cultured photography and the enthusiasts....<br /><br />There was a time when a lot of people covetted Kodak cameras....Retina's for instance, a time when Kodak products was right up there on tier one, instead we got shit like Instamatics and the rest.<br /><br />Kodak was at one time in history the worlds most rcognized brand...there was Kodak sign outside stores all over the world, even in east block countries.<br /><br />Its all gone now, we don't se any signs now, and the signs themselves have become museum pieces.... the youngsters have never HEARD of Kodak, and they closed down their operation in this country 5 years ago....<br /><br />But theyt sure still have many secret processes....</p>

<p>Eli the blog can be found at <br /><br /><a href="http://www.ascorbate-developers.blogspot.com/">www.ascorbate-developers.blogspot.com</a><br /><br />From what I have seen the K 14 is a running line operation, but I haven't seen anything in the process the REQURES a running line, anything can be done in a tank, it's just a matter of scale.<br /><br />Thuinking opposite setting up a running process for anything at home, from scratch would probably be a lot harder than doing K 14 in a tank...</p>

<p>Larry thats why they hired chemical engineers! And threw a million bucks at them....<br /><br />So many engineers employed at Kodak and so little worthwhile for their efforts, they should (also) have done a few simple projects like putting out a C41 kit @ 20C with NO false colors and color shifts and color crossovers and whatnot, instead of all the shit they brought forth :<br />Instamatic, Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Disc, and the ultimate last straw APS....<br /><br />That would have faciliated home prcessing for the enthusiasts, creating a stronger more loyal customer base, instead of trying to just lock the moms and dads into their evergrowing chain of picture plants....<br /><br />And while at it, done something similar for Kodachrome, I used Chibachrome in the darkroom for a while, it was a revelation, immacculate picture quality, nearly KC quality from the colornegative films of the day..... and it was said to be poisonous as hell, actually the kit came with warnings against putting the chemicals down the drain....</p>

<p>Naaaa Larry I have some internal AGFA literature here, dated 1979, outlining their color-negative process, says 20 centigrade, Agfa went with C41 the same time as Kodak AFAIK.<br>

But ORWO did keep the old Agfa process running - the old Agfa plant was in Wolfen (ORiginal WOlfen).</p>

 

<p>Eli just walk over to my blog, there in the archives is how I did KC myself with home-mixed chemistry.</p>

<p>Agfa had their C41 process normalized for 20C, it was published. I doubt you could tell 80 million germans that their pictures sucked.... But 17 million of those germans knew what sucked, the old east german ORWO process and even worse the russian Svet process, I have had the dougtful experience of developing Svet films myself with east-block chemistry from small kits...</p>

<p>Lists..... overe here asking for something stronger than 3%superoxyde for hair dyes will land you on one of their lists.....<br />But you hydrolyzed the stuff, was it still *urine*?</p>

 

<p>How is it that noone has anything specific to say about the KC recipes? I think the process times and temperature charts are well known, but noone has posted the recipes, are they THAT secret, even now? Kodak should put everything into the public domain,<br /><br />And for the record it was a shame they did not put out kits for C41 normalized for 20 Centigrade.</p>

<p>Larry I remember you mentioning thaturine project, I pondered upon that this week and decided to attack tea leaves instead, it will be a long project unwinding but so far successful!<br /><br />One question, the stench (teas smells better than coffe!!) hod did hydrolysing urine work as far as that urine stench goes? If it did turn into a *chemical solution* I might one day go down that road..... :-)</p>