gary e

I've read somewhere else that when sending in your body for RF calibration, Mamiya asks you to submit the lenses as well to make sure they adjust it right.

 

I've never had a problem with my 75mm or 50mm and I don't always shoot it at f16. The 50mm is sharp; one of the best WA lenses of any format; besides their own 43mm of course ;)

I've tried 3 R8's and 1 R9. 1 of the R8's had a slight rough edge to pass before the shutter actuation, but it really wasn't too rough and did have a noticeable click as you said; maybe slightly annoying at best. The others were smoother without this click. I don't think it is something to be too concerned with, and it will become smoother over time (I suppose). But I know how you feel, a body of this stature should perform flawlessly. If you feel something is not right you should get a second opinion from a Leica repair person say DAG or Sherry Krauter. They've both CLA'd my M bodies in the past and come highly recommended.

It just has to shoot like my M3. No meter, no histograms, no gimping through menus. Anyone who has shot with an

M knows they need to set aperture, shutter speed and focus. Why must it compete with all the other super featured

digi cams? There are no other digi RF cams out there to compete with at this time. So why shouldn't it shoot like an

M the way we've shot it for half a century? If at no more than $1500 USD I'd take it at any multiplier and any mpx.

And Leica, forget about making history or a camera that lasts for 20 years. It just doesn't work with digital cameras,

and that's why I'm still shooting with my M3 and not an MP...

I've used a Vivitar 283, Nikon SB-24 as well as a SB-E on the Mamiya 6. All safe in Auto Mode.

I did the same thing when I went to Vegas on vacation. Took it with the MB-20 and an extra set of batteries. I like the MB-21 configuration better for the extra battery power during events like weddings and such, but the MB-20 is slightly more compact and only a little lighter. It was a haul either way. It was only better at fitting into my bag; though had to shove it a bit to get the flash in too. If you had a choice of only an F4 on this trip, then a MB-20 will be better than the MB-21. It's the only F that will matrix meter with manual lenses.

 

Best of luck.

I currently use and RTSIII and RTSII with 28/2.8, 35/1.4, 45/2.8, 50/1.7, 85/2.8 and 35-70/3.4. I don't have a

35/2.8 to compare it with my 35/1.4 at 2.8, but I can tell you it has a shallow depth of field at 1.4 and 2.8. I

enjoy all the lenses but carry the 28/85 combo most of the time; and sometimes with the 45 as well since it is so

small. For my one lens kit, I use the 35-70 and the macro feature is nifty since I don't have any macro lenses.

And sometimes only the 35 since it is so heavy. I would have chose the 35/85 1.4 combo but both would be a back

breaker.

 

I've read about the 2.0 versions, but their prices are too exuberant to purchase even in these digital times.

And if you don't already know, the RTSIII is build like a brick as with the Nikon F4s. I don't recall seeing

scratches on my chromes using the vacuum back. If you're so concerned, you can use the 6v 2CR5 as the manual

says the vacuum back is inoperative at this voltage.

Some of my best shots (according to my friends and the pictures that are actually hung up on the wall) came from a Yashica D with the Yashikor lens. I liked your first photo. Did you use any filters?

I still shoot with my RTS II and III from time to time. My two favorite are the 35/1.4 (is heavy but my favorite low light shooter compared to the 50/1.7) and the 85/2.8 (which is just a great portrait lens). I do like the 45/2.8 for it's small size, but sometimes I accidentally move the aperture with my focus adjustments. I also like my 28/2.8 for it's sharpness but lust for the 21/2.8 if it were priced more sanely. I usually travel abroad with the 28/2.8, 45/2.8 and 85/2.8 in a shoulder or backpack. My 35/1.4, 50/1.7 and 35-70/3.4 doesn't travel as much unless to a friend's party or BBQ.

John, unfortunately your first curtain is having sticky issues. Seems your MP needs a brake adjustment. The exposure seems alright which means your second curtain is closing at speed. I don't think you should ask for a full CLA as that will most definitely cost more than a brake adjustment and the fact that it is an MP which should be relatively new. See if you can find a competent Leica repair person in your part of the world and show them these photos. They should be able to remedy this in a jiffy. Best of luck.

Can't go with just one, but they are mostly mechanical cameras. I am most passionate with my Leica M, Leicaflex SL, Nikon F2 and any

TLR. There's something about their construction and mechanical precision that forces me to concentrate more on what I'm shooting;

probably being meterless helps. Close second battery cameras are Mamiya 6, Contax II/III and Nikon F4.

To convert a lens to rom is approximately $200. (quote from Leica NJ). Every lens requires the 3rd cam for the R3 to R8.

The camera just grows on you. I feel it's a little fatter than my other non-Leica bodies, but they definitely don't have that feel the SL has. Only the Nikon F2 comes close. Maybe a SL3? One can only dream. Enjoy your SL.

Geoff,

 

One of two things can be wrong. If your other 3rd/3 cam/Rom lenses are registering fine, then your 3rd cam on your 135mm elmarit-r is out of alignment. If all your lenses are doing it, then your cam sensor on your R8 is out of alignment. The 3rd cam is step/stair shaped while your 1st and 2nd cams are silver and sloped. The R8 can use all 3 cam lenses and Rom lenses, but they all must have the 3rd cam at the very least.

 

Gary

Geoff,

 

Were you actually shooting with film outdoors or indoors? I am asking to see if you were just testing the camera with the camera body cap on. I once thought the same, but found the mirror was just barely sticking to the cap when I was testing it in M mode; also will take 30 secs (max AE time) if you had the cap on the lens... Either way best of luck to your R8.

 

Gary E

MP if new

 

M7 if new and AE required

 

M6 if used and require meter

 

M4-P if used, like convenient flash shoe, want frame lines like M6 but no meter

 

M4 if used, more frame lines than M3 or M2, new style film loading and no meter

 

M3 if used, .91 VF, requires film spool and no meter

 

Choose your poison. Good luck.

Scott,

 

You have your pressure plate on 220. Open the back and check it. You can twist it to the 120 position for 12 frames. If you do have it on 120 and it is shooting past 12 frames, you're probably going to have to get it repaired.

Cameraquest has stated that they still perform repairs on the Nikon F2 series. Sover Wong is also recommended on the sites as a good repair person; though I think he is outside the US. And I do not believe a memo was sent out from Nikon to instruct the technicians to destroy perfectly good parts in inventory; doesn't make customer service sense.

Mainly Provia 100 or 400 depending on light, sometimes Astia for outdoor portrait day and color print for friends and family events that require prints.

Don't know if this matters, but if you're considered going digital I think the AFDII is a better route. They've upgraded this body twice since going AFD which means they're going to support it long term.

M2, M3DS, M4 and M4-2. M2 sees most use w/o flash and M4-2 with flash (not often). Working on getting a M6, M7 or MP for metering. I've toyed with my friend's M5 briefly and never got to like the larger shape. Maybe throw in a VC R4M for wide angle use.

Alex,

 

I've investigated the same road you have and wish I had the same 50K Euro to spend! I recall that the Alpa has available shift which will give you an advantage with your 20% Architechtural use, but as for the remaining styles you shoot I don't think it provides any advantages (especially reportage and portraiture).

Only shoot slides (mainly Provia and Astia, 35 and 120) with scan directly to print or scan to file (sometimes).

My A570IS is pretty good as far as P&S goes. There just the right amount of scene modes and has manual overides. The zoom has only a few steps from wide to tele. The IS really works. The flash is battery hungry; probably the camera too as it only works on 2 AA batteries. Make sure you get a fresh high capacity set. Other than that, the camera is light, pretty small and takes decent pictures.

It is what it is, so just get it. It's what you wanted in the first place, and you're lucky you didn't buy one or two systems before ending with this decision. 16 cameras ago and thousands of dollars over the years, I wound up only using 3 cameras in my collection.

 

Keep searching for a used one if that saves you any money. Someone out there probably wanted a Mamiya and went through one of these first...

Opps, I mean the 150mm. But after reading your last post again, it is unlikely the previous owner would rig the vf to show only the 75mm view. If you have your lens mount extended, you can attempt to move the frameline lever to see it it indeed changes. If not, either your vf or your lens may need maintenance.