rgans

<p>Thanks. Appreciate all this.</p>

<p>In this case, there is no model release. The person in the photograph is Betty Page (don't ask why I didn't mention that before). The photo is fairly old and it was posed.</p>

<p>If I own a photograph of a living person, say, Paul McCartney (just making this part up), can I create and sell a poster from this photograph?</p>

<p>RON</p>

<p>I'm sorry if I gave the impression I wanted an ironclad guarantee I wouldn't get sued. I'm never going to get that. I just wanted a general impression that selling prints of street scenes with recognizable people (not just a crowd) where you didn't get a model release, is not uncommon.</p>

<p>Just to elaborate, the Nussenzweig case seemed to hinge on the fact that Nussenzweig was not aware the image was taken. I was about 10 feet from these guys, asked their permission (as I always do; the picture is never worth causing grief...well, seldom worth grief).</p>

<p>What I mean is, I would like to sell actual prints on line. Not digital images (i.e., jpgs), but physical prints.</p>

<p>As for the Nussenzweig case, it may not apply as I was standing in front of them, with a Pentax67 on a tripod; the picture was taken in 2001.</p>

<p>So, the take away is that I can sell this without a specific model release....this being unlimited copies of this image, as physical prints. Yes?</p>

<p>Prints, on line.</p>

<p>Appreciate this. So, just to be clear, I can sell copies of my photo, with no legal problem?</p>

<p>I thought that if I didn't get a model release, there would be a legal problem. The image was from 2001.</p>

<p>Thanks. Sadly (for me) I wanted to put this picture up for sale. But, now, no.</p><div></div>

<p>Interesting idea. This happens in EXACTLY the same position, each time I print with 8.5x11. I did adjust the paper thickness. It's set to 4 and the platen gap to auto, no paper size checking. This configuration worked perfectly until yesterday. So...it could be roller slippage. I should ask Epson about this and see what they recommend.</p>

<p>I've looked for inkjet cleaning kits for the Epson 3800 neither B&H nor Epson sell any for this printer.</p>

<p>Does it matter what you print? How about a small image?</p>

<p>Even with an Epson 3800? I ask because Epson makes a cleaning kit but not for the 3800.</p>

<p>Thanks. Didn't think of that.</p>

<p>Is this a good idea or a bad one? Or unnecessary?</p>

<p>RON</p>

<p>I use CS4 with an Epson 3800 for about 9 months. When I print, I get an Epson Style 3800 Pro Printing Preferences dialog box with four tabs, Main, Paper, Layout, Utility. Now, I get a dialog that says Printing Preferences and it only has three tabs, which are quite different. I swear I didn't do anything! Just turned the printer off and on.</p>

<p>RON</p>

<p>Dan: Question: If not via online sales, then how do you sell prints?</p>

I'm going to be upgrading from my dead 2200 to a 3800 as soon as I can convince myself I can afford it. I get the idea the general consensus is to use the K3 inks, matte black, LK, LLK, etc. and to use the ABW settings. Is this pretty much correct?

The clogging is definitely the Eboni. After I declogged, I used the Epson Ultrachromes; then I switched the Matte Black for the MIS Eboni (K) and again, clogged immediately. The cartridges look OK (what do I know?). The hole where the carbon comes out looks as clear as it can.

THANKS! Very very useful.

Does anyone have suggestions regarding rain (and snow) gear for a

Pentax67? I was taking some shots a few weeks ago in the snow, and

it was a royal pain, holding up umbrellas and constantly wiping the

lens. I'm looking for something that would protect the camera from

the elements while it was mounted on a tripod. Thanks.

Guys, I really appreciate your help. And when I get some good shots, I will post them. So, 1) keep trying; I may be close; 2) don't bother with more light, I have enough..or rather, more light probably won't help; 3) if I can increase the lens to subject distance, I will increase my DOF; 4) consider strobes (more on this later); 5) try different combinatinos (aperature, speed), maybe even a faster film (HP5+ or FP4).

 

So, two comments: One, good strobes are pricey. Is there anything with using a halogen/strobe combination? That is, use the halogens to get the lighting where I want and add a strobe to push the time down enough? Also, I use APX100. My print sizes are 16x20. Currently, my prints are grainless. Can I maintain that grainlessness with 400 speed film?

 

RON

I was afraid of your answer, but I was thinking of the same thing. I may have to move to ISO 400. That would give me 1/30. I have some HP5+, which is 400. I like it for some landscape work, so I might give it a whirl. Thanks!!!

I have a Pentax67-ii. Mostly I do landscapes, but lately I have

become interested in portaits. I bought some halogens, a 500w

Photoflex, 2 Lowel Pros (250w each) and one Tota (500w). I am using

the 200mm lens, which gives incredible detail. However, the 200mm

has a very shallow DOF, so I want to shoot at f/22 or f/32. My

background is very vague looking, so focusing on it is no problem.

At that aperature, most of the head should be in focus, and it is.

My problem is that I need to get my shutter speed down to about

1/30, so the eyes are not "soft" due to their constant motion

(dilation). I thought the addition of the 500w tota would help, but

it doesn't seem to. So, the question: Am I doing something wrong?

Should 1500w of halogen light be more than enough? Should I open up

the aperature to get the speed up and hope things are in focus?

Should I buy more light (and risk frying the sitters)? One last

thing: I shoot B&W, APX 100 at EI80 so the color temp is not an

issue.

 

RON

I would imagine if you have access to a densitometer, it's easy.

Otherwise, generally follow Fred Picker's advise (and others who have

similar methods). Basically, focus on a grey card, make sure the

light is even, meter normally, Then stop down 5 stops (or get to five

stops down). Shoot. Then put the cap on. Shoot. I then take the cap

off, and shoot again. But it's variations on this; some advise

opening up also, to get to zone X. I guess you can. It's a good thing

to do, because once you have found your N, you can forget about that

part of the process. You should also look at N-1, N-2, N+1 and N+2.

 

<p>

 

Or, i imagine, you can find some standard scene, and see if different

films, EIs, development times yield similar negs. I use the hallway

outside my apartment at night, so there's no light coming in from the

window at the end of the hall, only interior lighting.

 

<p>

 

RON