matt miller cambridge, ia

<p>The 105/2.8 VR would be an excellent choice. It will work with your D5000. It's great for landscapes, portraits, and macro work. You should be able to find an excellent condition used one for around $750.</p>

<p>tripod threads are funny. every poster suggests something different. <br>

My suggestion: a cheap feisol is still a very good tripod</p>

<p>If I use the Voigtlander Nikon F to Micro 4/3 adapter on an E-P2, will I get image stabilization with my Nikon lenses? Does the in body image stabilization work with all lenses, or just micro 4/3 mount lenses?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Accidents happen Keith. Are you above that?<br>

If you have insurance Robert, which is a great idea, it should cover the cleaning or a replacement.</p>

<p>Look at Feisol tripods. You can find a CF tripod for around $200. Ballhead will be more. I own a Feisol CF tripod and love it. </p>

<p>There are a couple of used ones for sale at Fred Miranda Forums. </p>

<p>Try FM forums buy & sell area. I recently bought an excellent 85/1.4D for about $850 there.</p>

<p>50% 85/1.4, 25% 50/1.4, 20% 180/2.8, 5% 35/2.0</p>

<p>I use the 85/1.4 and love it. It's my favorite and most used lens. I also own the Sigma 50/1.4. It is an amazing lens too, with image quality very close to the 85. The sharpness, bokeh, and color is just fantastic. </p>

<p>Congratulations on the blog award. You deserve a new lens or two.<br>

Bokeh can be very important in landscape photography. It's silly to think that everything is always in focus. The limit is in the mind.<br>

I second the suggestion for the Sigma 50/1.4. It's an amazing lens. My favorite landscape lens, on a D700, is an 85mm. I find it incredibly useful. The 50 will be about that on your camera. You might fall in love with that focal length as I have.<br>

The suggestion for a used 80-200/2.8 is a great one as well. <br>

Good Luck </p>

The DA 35mm macro would be an excellent choice for an all purpose normal lens for your K200D.

I have the same lens. I bought it for $100. The quality is amazing, the bokeh beautiful. I returned my copy of the 55-300 because I get better results from the 70-210. Pentax made/makes some mighty fine lenses.

I have the katz eye screen in my K10D. It has a split image focusing aid in the center. It is a complete joy to use, and much easier than the stock screen for manual focusing. So easy, in fact, that I manual focus 95% of my work right now. I have control again and love it.

DA*16-50, DA*50-135, and a fast normal prime like the 31 or 43 limited.

Bulent has the right idea. You can move autofocus from the shutter button to the AF button on the back of the camera. This is done with one of the custom functions. After setting this, you'll be able to autofocus with your thumb and trip the shutter with your finger.

The red lights do still light up with aftermarket screens.

 

I didn't get the autofocus brackets on my katzeye. When I use autofocus, I always use the center and recompose anyway. I did get the pano lines though, to help keep my horizons level.

I have a katzeye with optibrite in my K10D and love it. I much prefer manual focusing to auto focus; much more accurate. The metering is a little off, but I'm a histogram chimper, so I adjust after a test shot and have no problems with exposure after that. The optibrite helps when I stop down to check depth of focus.

When I recently ordered some Efke100 sheet film from John @ J&C, he told me that it is marked Adox, but it is Efke. Adox is Efke.

I built a uv exposure unit based on the plans at http://www.eepjon.com/Ubldit.htm . Don't know if it's the ballasts or the bulbs, but my exposures can be quite long for ziatypes. Sometimes up to 40 minutes for very dense negs, but usually around 10-15 minutes. I'm sure the more expensive electronic ballasts would help quite a bit.

That's a horrible thing, wasting a beer like that.

He has some images in his gallery at APUG. He goes by WarEaglemtn there.

My favorite setting is to use it at ISO64, vivid color, with saturation & contrast set at 4. I use these settings for flat lighting with bold colors.

 

For more some scenes I prefer the opposite approach, with saturation set at -3 or -4 and contrast at -2 or so.

 

I prefer to use the in-camera settings because I despise post-processing work on the computer. I'm pretty much just snap shooting with it anyway.

go to the bostick & sullivan website. you can buy the book there.

why rodinal? because it's easy to mix, has very long shelf life, delivers all the tonality you can possibly get from tri-x, & is very sharp. sure it's grainy & film speed is a bit slow, but the benefits are sure worth it imo.

rodinal