frederick_joicey

<p>I still have not found the article in AP magazine re this matter. Perhaps it was a bit further back than what I thought, and I may possibly have disposed of the magazine. However, I went and bought a Nikon F80, then managed to source the battery grip. I have put 2 films through the F80 and there is nothing untoward on the photos or the negatives.</p>

<p>I have been trawling about everywhere re this problem but as yet no one has come up any possible cure. If anyone has any suggestions please post. Apparently the problem is not restricted to Minolta, one guy mentions that his Nikon F90 also suffered from it.</p>

<p>Paul, and Patrick, Thanks for the prompt replies. As regards the first query, it is the back, the outside of the camera, which is sticky to the touch.<br>

And Patrick, nothing has ever been in contact with the back except my hands. The camera is stored in the box with a couple of sachets of silica gel. I cannot see those being the cause. The model is such a joy to use that is why I was thinking of buying a 2nd one. In fact,the 'faulty one', this weekend, went for £31-00p I would have thought constant use would have caused the rubberised material to wear.<br>

Still hoping that someone will have an easy cure.</p>

<p>Here in the UK was a Dynax 7 on ebay and shown as faulty. It had developed a 'sticky' back, and the seller stated it was not a pleasure to use, due to the stickiness. Everything else about the camera was perfect.(It sold for about £40.)<br>

As a result I went and checked my 7, which is stored in its box. I have not used it for about 10 months and on checking found there is slight stickiness at the top left hand corner of the back.<br>

Have any other 7 owners come across this problem; what causes it; and is there a simple way to prevent it developing further ?<br>

Looking forward to some simple suggestions, and hoping that the camera will not have to be recovered at some future date.</p>

<p>I use medium format and various 35mm cameras. I have found the Minolta Vectis S1 a convenient 'carry-about' camera. A couple of weeks back I learned at short notice that my grandson was in a football tournament. All my 35mm film was still in the fridge. I had 1 roll of Kodax APS film standing on a shelf. I used the S1 with the 80-240 APO lens, and although it was a dull, overcast day, every shot came out fine. My grandson now has photos of the event for when he is older.<br>

I bought 40 rolls of outdated APS film (2006) last year, and have kept them in the freezer. Of the 7-8 rolls I have used since, not one has been a failure.</p>

<p>Thanks for those 3 replies. I still cannot find the article concerned, but as Bob Sunley suggests, I think it was something to do with light leaks. The marks were not substantial, and I think, only noticed when looking at the negs closely. The first person to mention the matter caused others to check their negs., and they also noticed the slight 'lines', or 'marks'. I am one, who once he gets his teeth into something, I will not give up. If I find the related queries, I will certainly post details. The general opinion here is that the F80 is a camera worth having, so I will probably get one in the not to distant future.</p>

<p>Been thinking of acquiring a Nikon F80, but at the back of my mind I have seen that there can be a problem with some of the F80's. Marks on the negatives (not dust or scratches) were thought to have been caused by, I think, something to do with the prism.<br>

In the article in the UK magazine, several owners had experienced the problem. Other owners had never known it crop up.<br>

Has anyone in PhotoNet experienced the problem, or heard of it ?<br>

Thanks in anticipation.</p>

<p>Thank you both for the postings. I suppose moving the compensation dial to '2' would be close enough for ISO 200 negative film. And as you suggest, Donnie, I suspected that lighter fluid might help in freeing the dial. I will certainly give it a try.</p>

<p>Mike, Yes, Did that, and as there was no 'response' I pulled it up a bit further, which resulted in the whole lot coming up and revealing what was underneath. I pushed it back down, thinking I had ruined everything, but as I state the exposure compensation dial is still working. Even after pushing everything back down.</p>

<p>I have just bought an FR1 which is in very good condition, apart from the film speed dial being stuck at ASA/ISO 80, [1 dot below the ISO 100 mark.] The exposure compensation dial still works, and alters the viewfinder readings when I adjust the compen. dial.<br>

The camera appears to have been stored for some time, as the manual with it smelled 'foisty'. Has anyone any basic suggestion as to how to free the film speed dial ? I am not one for dismantling a camera. Would 1-2 drops of lighter fuel, or clear alcohol, dropped into the dial possibly free it ? I gather it could be accumulated dust, etc., or it may even have seized through corrosion.<br>

Professional repair would not be worth the cost, and I can still use the camera together with a handheld light meter, setting the aperture and speed as per the exposure meter, and ignore the readings in the camera viewfinder.<br>

One other point which has been mentioned was, after all these years would the camera's meter still be accurate ? And possibly I would be better off relying on a hand meter.<br>

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.<br>

From old UK magazines, I gather that the FR1 was the Yashica 'twin' of the Contax RTS. And whilst I would have liked an RTS/RTSII, more than likely they may have been used professionally, whereas the FR1 would more than likely have had amateur use, and this one certainly looks like that.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I managed to get 40 rolls of Kodak APS from ebay 3 weeks back. Outdated by 5 years, but still in cartons which contained the rolls which were still in their plastic bubbles. Have exposed 2 rolls and the results were normal. Remainder are now in the freezer/fridge.<br>

Two weeks back I googled Agfa, and it looks as though they are still producing APS film, but obviously that will be at normal price.</p>

<p>Todd, Thanks for your post. I do not have a problem with my F100, but I found your link invaluable and will go to it re a light meter fault on my Nikon FM.</p>

<p>By moving the shutter speed dial, and also the ISO dial, I am now getting some more reaction from the meter in the camera. I think it just wants frequent use and possibly the meter will revert to normal. At the moment I am getting frequent, but not continual, readings to show +/- exposure, ie red dot above or below the centre red dot.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your suggestions, but none have worked. By moving the ISO dial quite a bit I did get some reaction from the red dots, now and again, when altering the shutter speed, and the aperture. I suspect it may be something minor. But having put one film through, and using a hand held meter, I have been 100% successful. I may as well save a bit money for the time being and rely on the hand held meter. I was surprised at the smoothness of the wind-on lever though. All other Nikons I have are auto-wind, but the FM's smoothness was astounding. </p>

<p>Good photos, David, but what caught my eye was the reference to the Canon A1. I bought one about a month ago, - first venture into the Canon FD system. As a result of buying that first one, and the way it is built, and the way it feels in the hand, I went and bought a second one.The wife could not understand why, but it is no good explaining a photographer's logic. I now have 5 FD lenses, and am just putting a Canon 300mm f/5.6 through its first 'work-out'. I had a look for a Canon FD 'L' lens(es) but they are still quite costly. The Canon FD bug has bitten, but I ignored a Canon F1, with 3 FD lenses(non Canon) which was on *bay, and went unsold at £99. Don't know what will happen if it is relisted.!!</p>

<p>Has anyone any idea of a quick fix for a faulty light meter on a Nikon FM.? When the meter is activated with the wind on lever, the red dot appears at the minus sign, and will not move when I change aperture or speed. It has been suggested that this fault can be caused by dirt under the speed dial/ISO button, and that by moving the ISO button back and forth it can get the meter working again.<br>

I have tried this 'remedy', and occasionally when altering the aperture, the 3 red lights will sometimes come on separately. It looks as though underneath the speed dial/ISO button may need a clean. I was considering raising the ISO dial and using a fine brush on the underside. Recommended ? or could I do some damage ?<br>

Any alternative remedies would be appreciated. Or if anyone here in the UK has had a similar repair done professionally, what was the cost ?<br>

At the moment I am using the camera with a hand held meter, and the first film through has come out perfectly.<br>

I am not one for taking cameras apart so any suggested remedy would have to be basic.<br>

Thanks in anticipation.</p>

<p>Richard, A good lab I have used for the past few years is Metro Colour Lab in Birmingham. Google them and you will get their site up, and be able to view the full list of what they offer and can do. I have used them for 35mm and medium format, both negs and slides. Also for enlargements. Their prices are reasonable. Peak Imaging, of Sheffield have been recommended by many, but their prices are a little higher than Metro.</p>

<p>It now looks like both Fuji and Kodak have stopped producing APS film. A lab which I used here in the UK supplied a free film(35mm or APS)with every film developed. No free APS film last week, so I contacted them and was told that they could not supply free APS film as they were permanently out of stock. I managed to get some expired Kodak High Definition APS, and the first roll I have used has come back ok. No problems.<br>

Rumour has it that Agfa are still producing APS film. Anyone know for sure ?</p>

<p>I gather that both Kodak and Fuji have stopped making APS film, and that was about 3 months ago. Supposedly Agfa are still in the market, but I have not seen anything to suggest it. On ebay the APS film for sale seems to be the odd drib and drabs, 1-3 rolls from the odd person. Last week saw 1 APS slide film (!) and an APS black and white film for sale.</p>

<p>F Ph, The result is impressive. I gather that the Epson 4990 scanner is discontinued, but they can be had second hand. I will keep searching and considering different makes. At the moment it looks between an Epson or a Cannon flatbed.</p>

<p>Interesting reading for one who is about to buy his first scanner. The above posts have given me a bit basic knowledge about scanners. I am looking at buying either an Epson V600, or the CanonScan 9000, possibly. I would require the scanner for both 35mm and med. format, both slides and negs.<br>

I believe both the above models are simple to use, being basically plug-in with usb cable. Am I correct in that ?<br>

I have also been considering the Epson V600 and the Canon 8890, which I realise are no longer produced, so they would have to be second hand(and in good/excellent condition.) Any opinion as to acquiring 2nd hand, or should I go for brand new.<br>

Looking forward to recommends and points for and against.</p>

<p>Geoff, That must be the second lens in the series which did not have manual focus. I acquired a 28-56 lens with the used S1, and it does not feature manual focus. Now that I have the 80-240 apo lens, I will not be after the 25-150. However, thanks for the update and info. Should a cheap one raise its head for sale, I would bear that point in mind.<br>

Have just got another set of photos back from a lab. in the UK, and they are good results. AF is not a strong point on the Vectis, but it is a handy little camera to carry about.</p>

<p>Thanks for that, Howard, I will store my APS like 35mm and roll film, ie in fridge or freezer.</p>

<p>Mark Kesper, Did you get your battery problem sorted out ? I have just been on another site this morning, and there was the same identical problem with another S1. The owner stated the battery indicator was showing 'full', but the camera would not work. He took it to Radio Shack and tested the S1 with a new CR2 battery, and everything is working fine, now.<br>

Have got the results from my 80-240 lens, and am pleased with how they have turned out.<br>

Next point : I store 35mm and roll film in the fridge. Can APS film be stored likewise, bearing in mind there are very small metal parts at the bottom of APS canisters ? </p>

<p>I bought a Pentax ME Super about 10 years back, as a result of an article in a UK magazine, relating to 'modern classic cameras' Results from the 50mm lens(1.7 I think) were sharp and the colours were outstanding. Use it frequently. In 2008 the mirror foam had started to disintegrate. I had it repaired and it is still a joy to use.</p>