jimmy_m.

Jeff, i think they make sense. If you will recognize what we're trying to say. That digital has a different "look" or "feel" than film. Just like oil has a different look than acrylic. Analog has a different sound than digital. What's wrong with that? I was just saying that its silly to argue which one is better. They're just different. Do you think that digital looks different than film?

Wow, i think these examples are so much more interesting on the "before" side. Before both men were given digital Botox. No offense.

Someone used audio as an analogous example. I will use paint. To me, film and digital ARE JUST DIFFERENT. They are both used to "capture" images in-camera but they are different processes. It seems like one could use the analogy of paint. Oil and acrylic are different processes and require different techniques and ultimately achieve different results. One is not "better than the other". One may be "better than the other" with regards to a certain application. I am with everyone here who has said that film looks more dimensional, smoother, tonal etc.. and digital looks sharper, colors are more accurate. But to me, in getting that perfectly sharp, perfectly color accurate image, it loses something. Character maybe? I shoot with both a Canon D60 and a Leica M6 and Canon Eos-1V. My usage time for digital vs. film is about 50/50. I like them both. But, i'll have to agree that film still has a more "naturally pleasant" look to it. And certainly when it goes over into black and white. In my opinion, film cannot be matched when shooting for black and white images. Again, just different. Oil vs. acrylic. Thoughts?

thanks for the info Diana. Ray, thank you too. Do you know what channel the class is being broadcast on twice a week?

Perhaps, Oskar, if there were a television show that offered slow step by step tutorials on creative processes within photoshop that are at a professional level. Perhaps even giving Photoshop tips that one might not be able to find on the web. I guess if you could find EVERYTHING you need on the web, one would never have to buy a book or a magazine again. And maybe, there are people out there that would benefit from seeing someone on the tv screen "walk you thru" the steps instead of just reading about them somewhere. I play guitar. When i was learning, i purchased many books and searched for all the help i could on the web. This was without a doubt helpful. But, there is nothing compared to "seeing" it done with your own eyes. And also, maybe not everyone can afford, money or time wise, to go attend a class, which i agree would probably be the most valuble learning experience. So, since we've now dissected the value of learning from the web vs. tv vs. class, can someone answer the question that i actually asked? Is there a tv show, other than tech tv, that offers Photoshop tutorials?

Does anyone know of a cable or satellite company that offers any

sort of "Photoshop channel" or any sort of tv channel that would

offer Photoshop tutorials/tips/tricks?? If not, someone should!

Thank you all for the responses. Very helpful.

I am looking into getting a used manual slr. The two i'm looking at

are the Pentax K1000 and the Konica T4. You don't hear alot about

the Konica t4 but what you hear is good. What are the main

differences between these two bodies as far as features and

functionality are concerned?

Thank you but i'm afraid your advice about setting up a separate printer would only confuse my father. I don't think he would want to or even remember how to select different printers for different work. I guess i just want to know if there are some easy settings that can remain unchanged for "in the ballpark" color. Print dialog settings?

I am trying to setup an Epson 890 for my father so that he can

routinely print images from Photoshop without going through the

process of selecting profiles, etc... He wants a simple easy

routine for printing. Even if the color isn't 100% accurate, as

long as its close he's happy. Are there any steps i can take in

setting up and saving color management/print dialog settings so that

he can print easily when i'm not around to load profiles

and "customize" his settings? Any help would be great.

Can you use the Vivitar 283 with the Mamiya 7? If so, how would

you go about using this flash for outdoor fill flash? Any help

would be greatly appreciated?

Thank you for all the responses. With due respect to Jeff and David, I DO know what kind of photography i want to do. But to see if the M7 is compatible with the shooting i want to do, don't you still need to know what the M7's limitations/strengths are to see they fit with my shooting style? Hence my question. I am not one to shoot a particular way just because the camera i'm going to buy allows itself for that type of photography. I've just always found it strange so many posts about the Mamiya's close-focusing inaccuracy and posts about this NOT being the camera for landscape. So that prompted my question regarding what it does WELL instead of what it doesn't do well, mostly out of curiosity. When i think of a mamiya RZ67, i think studio camera (fashion, product shots). When i think of Leica M6 i think of street photography. So i was just wondering what kind of photography the Mamiya 7 is best suited for. Forgive me if this was a vague or unclear question. Also i meant getting the 65mm instead of the 80mm, not 50mm. (still thinking 35mm)

I am interested in getting a used mamiya 7. I've heard from many

postings that this camera is not for close-ups because of the

focusing accuracy problem at close range. I've also heard it ain't

the camera for landscapes because of the framing issues. What IS

the perfect application for the Mamiya 7 system? I would assume

everything in between close-up photography and landscape photography

(street shooting). I'm also thinking about getting the 65mm lens

instead of the 50. Any comments would be appreciated.

Here is a photo i shot and converted to B/W via the blue channel. This is the look that i'm going for<div></div>

I'm shooting alternately with a Canon EOS1v and a D60. I'm shooting

mostly portraits. When i shoot with the D60 and import the photos

into photoshop, i always go the the channels tab to check which

channel would make the best BW conversion. I find that with most of

my portraits (young children) the blue channel looks the best. It

darkens the skin and creates a mood similar to that "ortho" look.

Now, If i want to recreate this look using my film loaded EOS1v,

how would i go about doing that with panchromatic film? I've

searched the archives for similar posts and most say to use a blue

filter. I've used an 80A or B and couldn't notice a difference.

Others say use a 44A, well, they are not to be found with a 77mm

filter thread. Is there any other way to acheive this look? If i

were to shoot with Macophot PO100, would i acheive this same look?

Any help would be great.

Shaun, you said that nikon bodies are nothing to write home about. Is there a third party slr body that accepts nikon lenses?

I'm looking for an inexpensive telephoto lens for my Nikon, or

Nikkormat, EL2. I've decided on the Vivitar/Phoenix 100mm f/3.5

macro lens. Will this lens work on my camera? I know there are a

few incompatibility issues with Nikon manual focus gear. Someone

told me that there are some nikon lenses, and third party lenses for

that matter, that will NOT go with the EL2. Is this Vivitar

compatible with the Nikkormat EL2?

I'm having a problem calibrating my Dell LCD monitor using Adobe

Gamma. At the beginning, it says to turn to contrast ALL THE WAY UP.

(First of all, is it okay to keep your monitor at this high

setting?). When i do turn it all the way up, the detail in the fonts

on my address bar and other places get blown out to the point where

i can barely read what they say. This can't be right. Also, when

adjusting the slider to disappear, the box never gets to a point

where it disappears. What's going on? I know Adobe Gamma isn't the

best way to calibrate a monitor but i've had pretty good results

with it before when i had a CRT monitor. Is there anything i can do?

Are you supposed to leave the contrast slider at its maximum setting?

Is it possible to get a blue filter (for black and white

photography) for the CFI,CFE lenses for the Hasselblad 503CW? I

believe its a bayonet 60mm mount.

I'm using 400 speed film by the way

Thanks for all the input. I have a few more questions. How exactly do you "compensate for the bellows"? And what f-stop will put the entire head of a portrait subject in focus?

I want to know if an 8x10 Tachihara field camera with a Nikkor-W

300mm f/5.6 lens can sync with an Elinchrom EL500 monolight. Is

this possible? If so, what is the max sync speed on this lens? I

don't know if its a leaf shutter or not, but i guess if it is, it

will sync at all speeds,....correct? Also, why don't you hear of

more large format cameras being used with studio strobes?

Can i use the Pocket Wizard Plus remote flash system with my Canon

D60 and my Quantum Qflash T2? The reason i'm asking is because

Quantum has a new Qflash that is "compatible" with most new digital

SLR's. Which makes me think that for some reason my non-digital

Qflash is not compatible with my D60. But if you don't need an

adapter cable (wireless) would it be compatible? Any help would be

great. Thanks!

I am interested in finding an old fixed lens rangefinder or slr (pre-

1960's) with aperture and shutter control. Perhaps one with an

uncoated lens. Any recommendations?

How do you make Photoshop your default image editing program?