john_e2

<p>Thanks. I contacted Canon and was told by the tech. they didn't know about optical slaves. they tried to sell me the st-e3 controller for $300. I told them I only wanted to use it in manual mode as an accent flash and shouldn't have to spend $300 on a controller after spending almost $600 for the flash. I then asked how I'd fire my studio lights if bought their $300 controller to fire the 600 ex-rt since the controller would be occupying my hot shoe and wouldn't trigger my studio strobes. My stobes may not be triggered by the 600ex rt flash. He couldn't tell me. so I asked about the pocket wizard and all they could say was that it "should' be compatible. The tech went to speak to another tech and came back and said the unit "should" work with an optical slave like the peanut ,but that they only really knew about canon products and canon didn't make an optical slave. I got tired of messing with it and used my $85 Vivitar that's more than 10 years old with a generic hot shoe slave I got on ebay for a couple bucks and is falling apart. it fired every time. this is really sad. I bought the best speedlite canon makes and I had to use my vivitar instead because of a simple slave issue.</p>

<p>Does anyone know what photo slave will work to trigger the Canon 600EX-Rt speedlite?<br>

I've tried different slaves like the peanut slave and nothing seems to work to trigger it, even when the triggering flash is aimed directly at the slave. I called Canon and they couldn't help me, just tried to sell me their canon trigger for a few hundred dollars. I've tried a slave that fits on the hot shoe mount and one that plugs into the pc outlet. I tested the slaves on other flashes and they are working.</p>

<p>Thanks CPM. I turned off my virus protection software and it worked. nervous about turning it off , though.</p>

<p>I'm trying to sell my nikon lenses and cameras on photo.net classified, however, when I click on ads left by others all i get is one pixel. How is one suppose to view the details of the ad? How do the photo.net classified ads work?</p>

 

<p>I've tried all different ways. I shoot srgb because when I print the labs convert them to srgb anyway and the colors don't match if I'm doing everything in RGB. Furthermore, it has never made sense to me to do all the work in RGB then convert to srgb when I'm done and have a color and density shift. It makes more sense to me to do everything in srgb if I'm going to convert it to srgb in the end anyway. I've also tried setting everything to RGB from DPP through CS6. it still looks much better in DPP. I've tried using Adobe Raw, but two things 1) I can't view thumbnails in adobe raw and 2) DPP still looks much better with very little adjusting.<br>

Does anyone know how to maintain the look from DPP through CS6?</p>

<p>I recently noticed there's a real difference in the appearance of pictures in Canon Digital Photo Professional and Photoshop CS6. DPP pictures look much nicer and really pop. whereas when I transfer the pictures to photoshop as a tiff or jpg they appear dull and somewhat bland as well as not as sharp.<br>

I shoot raw srgb, DPP is set to srgb and cs6 is set to srgb. when pictures are transferred from DPP I have to add levels, sharpening and contrast to get them to look close to the same picture viewed in DPP. Why does this happen and what do I need to do so the pictures in CS6 will look the same as in DPP when transferred. when batch saving I've checked the "preserve embedded profile" option.</p>

<p>Ellis. thanks for your post. The 1dx is excellent at 10,000 iso , I've shown pics taken at 10000 to other photographers who think I'm lying when I tell them the ISO. They just don't believe me. Even the photographer who stood right next to me during the dance recital accused me of whipping out a flash when no one was looking. he claimed the ISO had to be 100-200 with flash. He shot a Mark II and said he could not go over 1600 ISO. I was hoping the 1dx's capabilities would allow me to use continuous lighting so I could shoot at 12fps during their leaps, but it doesn't seem possible. </p>

<p>After reading some posts I think there's some confusion. I'm not going to be shooting dancers on stage using stage lights. I simply mentioned, as an after thought, that I've shot dancers in a recital with the camera I'll be using and posted what the ISO was to give guidance on the camera and it's capabilities that I'd be using for this shoot. My point was the I could crank up the iso on my 1dx and get excellent shots. So, continuous lighting is looking very attractive for this shoot, if it's possible. <br>

My question is what are the better brands to use when using continuous lighting. </p>

<p>Well. I'm willing to go up to 10000 iso. would that be enough?</p>

<p>I've watched some instructional video's on fluorescent lighting and it looks interesting and would like to give it a try. The instructor in the video was using a Spiderlite 1d6, However, I'd like some advise on which brands are the best ones? Also, will soft boxes used for strobes be usable with fluorescent lighting or would I have to buy new soft boxes? Also, I'll need enough light to shoot fast enough to stop dancers in motion. How many watts would it take to freeze motion? I'll be using my 1dx and have shot at 16000 iso at a recital using the stage lights with good results but would like to shoot at a much lower iso. The shots will be enlarged to 30x40 and larger.</p>

<p>Can someone give me some direction on where to go for Senior portrait ideas and training videos?<br>

I'm looking for something that is current with the latest trends in senior portraits.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Bob, I will do what you suggested today.</p>

<p>John, It could very well be a defective lens. I had a similar problem when I purchased my 1dx. It turned out the camera was defective and the replacement is amazing.</p>

<p>OK Thanks. Here's another question you may be able to help with. How does one make money shooting events like this? I've got the equipment required to do sports action photo, (1dx and 24-70 2.8 IS II L , 70-200 IS II L and will purchase the Canon's 300mm 2.8) but haven't figured out how to make money at it. Shooting for a newspaper is possible, but I doubt there's any money in it. I've shot sporting event's along side newspaper photographers that seem to not be out of high school and would not be surprised if they're interns working for free. Local newspapers have asked to print my pictures instead of the one's shot by their own photographers. I always let them as long as they give me credit. </p>

<p>I was going to put them on a stock photo website.</p>

<p>I recently took photo's at a dance recital. I used my 1dx and got great shots from the balcony. the owner liked the pictures so much she's already booked me for the next recital. Several weeks before the recital I took pictures in her studio with a background and studio lights. I did well selling those pictures, however, the action shots from the recital were placed on smugmug. While I got many compliments on the shots only 1 parent bought 2 5x7's online. The rest stole the pictures and put them on their face book page. I purchased the pro level on smug mug and the pictures were right click protected and My logo was placed directly across each photo. They either did a screen grab or took cell pics of their screen. this is the first time I've tried selling online. Is this typical? Is online selling really a bust? I was planning to unveil online sales this school year with my sports photography but if this is typical of online selling, I'd be doing a lot of work for nothing.<br>

Any ideas, please. </p>

<p>I joined PPA for the $15000 insurance for equipment that came with the membership. I was recently told by a fellow photographer that he used to be a member and had the insurance too. However, when his car was stolen with all of his equipment, PPA insurance didn't pay out a penny. Before signing up I called PPA and asked specifically about what was covered. They told me that stolen gear or gear that I say dropped in water at a beach photo shoot would be covered. After my friends experience, I'm wondering if PPA's insurance is really legit.</p>

 

<p>Does anyone know if a photographer is allowed to sell photo's taken at sporting events like minor league baseball, Local Drag races etc. Would I need permission from the club to sell the photo's and would I need to get a model release from the participants?</p>

<p>I need to know how to hang an photo that's been mounted on foam board to the wall if the photo is not going to be framed. is there a better mounting board than foam board if the portrait is to be hanged without being framed? double sided tape is out because it might peel off the wall paint, same with Velcro.</p>

<p>I can get closer to the stage if need be. there's an orchestra pit right in front of the stage, but I figured shooting down from the balcony would be better than shooting up from the orchestra pit. the 1dx does a great job at high iso, I've never shot a dance recital so not sure what to expect as far as shutter speeds and aperture. I don't do a lot of action shots, so I'd be much more comfortable at higher shutter speed like 800. </p>

 

<p>I'll be shooting a kids dance recital, ages 3 to 18. I'm not allowed to use flash. I have a Canon 1dx and the 2.8 70-200mm is II. I'll be situated in the back of the theater in the balcony. The 70-200mm will not get me in close enough for the tight shots of individual kids. If I use a 2x my widest f-stop will go up to 5.6. in a typical theater, Would 5.6 be fast enough to freeze motion. I'm considering renting the Canon 2.8 300mm or 400mm and using a 1.4x if I need it. What camera speed would you recommend? What do you all think? Anyone who has shot dance recitals, please share your input. Thanks</p>

<p>The dealer gave me a refund and I purchased a new 1dx from a different USA Dealer.<br>

the new 1dx is absolutely amazing. no problem with focus. pictures are sharp right out the box.<br>

Tested all differnt AF Cases tracking, single shot, multiple, servo mode etc. everything works fantastically. the focusing system on this camera is very easy to use. not sure why some folks have complained that it's difficult to learn.<br>

The pics are sharp in faithful with no sharpening. This camera is much better then the Mark III which I'll be returning to Best buy. If you're not blown away by the 1dx there could be something wrong with it like I found out.</p>

 

<p>Just received my new Canon 1dx. The shots are amazing right out of the box. the original camera I recieved definately had a major focusing problem. I've tested this new one out in different case modes and AF modes they all preform fastastic. Unlike what some posters have stated, the focusing system on this camera is not difficult to use or learn at all. The 1dx is super simple to operate and the different focusing modes are a snap to use. Thanks for the tips folks. I'm glad I returned the original for a different one. </p>

<p>marcus. I purchased the 5dmarkIII from my local Best Buy to try it out. I have 30 days to return if I decide to try another 1dx. The dealer offered me an exchange or a refund so I'm at a loss as to why they won't send the pics.</p>

<p>Here's a shot I took with the 5d III I realize I shot it at f8 not 2.8 so it's not an equal comparison, however, it shows that the focus is where I've placed the square and it seems much sharper, more consitant and the tracking does a fantastic job as apposed to the 1dx. </p><div></div>