tim_dodd1

Mike.

Sigma forum yes, my mistake

Thank you for the reply, this is the info am after.

As you say about a 10mp bayer sensor possibly only being 5mp due to the AA filter I agree.

If a bayer sensor is 10 mp then there is only 2.5mp or red and blue and 5mp of green? I may be wrong but this puts the resolution back in the same ball park as the foveon which makes the whole resolution argument mute.

You mention more dynamic range, I think this was one reason why the 5d was not working for me.

Yes the final print size is a worry if you work from the 5mp theory which does relate to the size of the sensor in pixels.

How big can you go with out a noticeable loss of detail in a print?

10x20?

Yes you are right, I should be asking those who have Sigma and another system too.

I would like to start with new equip ground up. Full frame is nice but a cropped sensor is handy. (I never thought id say this)

I will be keeping my eos 35mm kit and it looks like a choice between 7D, K7 or SD15.

Im aware of the limitations/advantages of most current dslr's, this is why I would like to hear a little more from sigma users, the images I have looked at from the foveon senssor really appeal to me.

OK ill keep this short.

Ive used most brands of dslr and owned a 5d, I have some cannon lenses but my commitment is not too big at the

moment, I can change brands.

Photography is my hobby not a profession, 99% of the time I use film for landscape, band picks/festivals and

portraits.

Where are some good examples professional/artists using sigma dslrs?

What are the pros/cons of buying a sigma dslr? ( dont get too negative and short answers please)

I would love to hear from actual owner/users.

Cheers

Cheers for the great advice.

I developed those rolls to day and found out a classic lesson; every day shot was pefect and I really like the look. The night stuff was a failure I think a was still a couple of stops under.

The first roll I processed at 1+200 for two hours, all of the day shots were great, night stuff was invisible except for lights.

The second roll I decided to go for 1+50 for 30 mins, same again as above

The third roll I processed at 1+25 for 30 mins, improvement with the night shots but still two stops under.

As it was looking like a case of massive under exposure I took a gamble and went 1+25 for a hour on the last two rolls! Some of the night stuff came out ok and the day shots have some really massive contrast, I dont mind it though.

Are you thinking 1:100 mix or 1:200,

How big a differance between one hour and two will I get. To act as a guideline?

Ive never tried this "black art" developing process and yes a test roll is going to be in order.

I will be posting several on my Flickr Page "www.flickr.com/people/notreallytim" when they are all developed.

Cheers

Ok thats great advice.

I have taken most of the shots at night around the bars at Glastonbury fest, real dark but quiet a lot of fire and festoon lighting, im was thinking an EV of 2-3

I dont mind over developing the highlights. As a rule of thumb all of these shots were taken at f4.5 1/100

There are some daytime shots that I exposed at f32 1/400 the meter told me i was over a step.

Does this help? Im thinking all of my shots are almost stop over which could put the actual exposure closer 2000-3000.

I gues the film will be developed to exhaustion.

Stand developing is looking good. is it a normal rinse and fix afterwards?

Hello.

Ive got 6X120 rolls I shot in a 6x9 folder at 3200.

Im wondering if I could get away with using Rodinal as I have pleanty on hand, I know neopan 400 can be developed

at 1600 with this developer

Has anyone done this or should I stick with something more conventional ie: d-76, HC 110 or Microphen?

I realy want to try the Rodinal but would love to hear from someone who has done this

Cheers

Tim

Ok Id like to clarify when to use kodak NC (neutral contrast) or VC ( I guess this means high contrast) in the Portra range,

Im thinking that the same applies to Fuji too.

My application is primarily Landscapes

It is the colour in general not just the cast, it looks a little washed out although two labs I have gone to have commented that the negs look perfect, I have had lab prints and my own scans there seems to be a similar theme in both.

I have put it through several different cameras, Lomo Diana, Yashica Mat and a Bessa I, Correct me if im wrong but it also appears to have a little less contrast/saturation? in general when compared to Portra 160 VC. I haven put it through the Bronica yet.

Wow, lots of good responses

I think im tending towards portra 160vc as my expearience with it was great. (Eath tones looked realistic and the greens vibrant)

I suppose the doubt with Velvia came on when I started reading a few comments about how good Astia 100f is (I havent used it yet, although I do have a couple of weeks to give it a try) and from a long conversation at a L&P photographic last fortnight about Astia vs Velvia, the conclusion was that Astia holds a bit more "Kodak warmth" and wont get a cold as Velvia can when the light is not in the ballpark.

So I think ill need to test a roll of Astia hmm...

Heres that other interesting fact as my cameras are old (sharp enough for the not too large prints im aiming for though) Grain is not really a consideration, of course ill be using a tripod and cable release so staying near 100iso is nice.

Phillip: "Re exposure, check the lightest and darkest subject matter you want detail to show in, and expose two stops below the brightest reading, letting the shadows fall where they will. Shadow detail is overrated for this kind of landscape - look at the Brit photo mags for ideas on using high contrast well."

Thats brilliant advice and this year ive got a spot meter attachment for my kenko so ill be able to give it a go.

One negative "no pun intended" for Ektar 100 is that lots of people report exposing it at iso 50-80 etc. Im not keen on having a film that you need to constantly change your procedure with from day to day, I hope this doesnt sound slack but I like using film/slide that you keep at its reccomended ISO and worry about the other concepts of photography.

I should mention that Ive put 8 rolls of Ektar 100 through my cameras this year and only two of Portra 160VC the Portra had a lot more winning shots,

Is it possible that the nature of my camera lenses (Sollinar and Yashinon) work better with older styles of film?

Lots of good advice so far and I think this is heading in one direction, hopefully I havent thrown too many spanners into the discussion.

Cheers

Cheers,

Ill be getting some shots up over the next couple of weeks just puting together a collection of the best ones

:-)

I will be travelling through the Scottish highlands again this year and am contemplating not taking any slide film, I have had

some really nice forest results with Portra 160 vc and started using Ektar 100 early this year and have been generally

impressed with everything it does, yes there can be a blue cast but I soon worked out how to remove it in post

processing.

Velvia 50 usually does not let me down but it can be tricky to get a good results without bracketing especialy when your

traveling light and to a budget. The majority of shots I will take are landscape, as I already have a winning b&w film

combination for my street photography and portrait work.

What do you think? im inclined to go with C41 this time, I dont have an adversion to Fuji C41 and if someone has a

reccomendation Ill be willing to try it out. Ultimately id like to travel with one type of colour neg film, as I dont have the ability

to change mid roll.

Cheers,

Tim

<p> Hi I’ve just joined, <br>

I live in Adelaide and have been taking shots for approx two years with film. Over the last six months my attention has leaned heavily towards MF.<br>

I like to include urban elements or people in my b&w work and normally I use colour or IR B&W for landscapes but as time goes on tastes change and new ideas grow.<br>

I like to travel and my work takes me all over the globe and usually I take a tlr + another camera (folder 6x9 or 35mm slr) I travel light, but the digital happy snapper always ends up in the bottom of my bag (just in case). <br>

I am still in the collecting image stage with my work but have several collections of photos I hope to print traditionally next year and exhibit around Adelaide Festival time, ill see if I reach my goal... <br>

I’ve been reading the forums for a couple of years and photo.net has been a handy place to learn a few tricks and hopefully I can give something to the community too.<br>

I have a flickr page and if you’d like please check it out and post a comment; <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/notreallytim/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/notreallytim/</a></p>

<p>Have a good day.</p>

<p>Tim</p>