chris_waller

<p>Consider also the TLR. I am a big fan of the Mamiya TLRS and have two C3s, a C220 and a C330. I also have a Yashica LM 6x6 TLR and a Zeiss Ikonta 6x6 folding camera.</p>

<p>Rex,<br>

<br />I dug out my darkroom tech file and found an old Rodinal data sheet. For HP5 Plus at rated speed and for a gamma of 0.65 it gives a time of 8 minutes at a dilution of 1+25 and 20 C. </p>

<p>Rex,</p>

<p>At some stage I'm planning to try out Paranol S myself so your post is interesting. It is said that Paranol S is exactly the same as the last formulation of Rodinal produced by Agfa. I haven't got an old Agfa Rodinal data sheet but I seem to remember that HP5 at 400 ASA needed 8 minutes at 1/25 dilution. Since you are getting flat negs at 6 minutes that sounds about right. What agitation do you give the tank? What enlarger are you using? Is it a condenser head or a diffuser head?</p>

<p>John,</p>

<p>Many thanks for this link. I had never heard of Clifton R. Adams and have never seen this work before. It is a fascinating pictorial account of an era.</p>

<p>Tri-X isn't what it used to be. I have some Tri-X negs from the 1980's and it then had a very distinctive grain. I devved it in Rodinal.</p>

<p>I'm using Windows 7 Professional. I managed to get it just as Windows 8 was appearing (and I didn't like the look of that). Windows 7 does everything I want - and a huge amount for which I have no use and even less interest - so I don't aim to change. What irritates me is how MS keep changing things - why can't they just leave it alone?</p>

<p>I 'd agree with Steven on this - a Zeiss Ikonta. Or maybe a Voigtlander?</p>

<p>I have always used Paterson tanks. You need at least a changing-bag to load them, but it's easy enough with the Paterson self-loading reels.<br>

I know the tape of tank you are referring to but can't think of the name of the manufacturer. I haven't seen one for years.</p>

<p>Medium format can, and does, deliver results which are manifestly an improvement on 35mm. My favourite MF cameras are my Mamiya TLRs. As noted above: use a tripod; be precise about metering; process your own film and be very exact about development. It will pay dividends.</p>

<p>Well, I once spent 3 1/2 years photographing a tree to try to get what I thought was the perfect picture. In the end I settled for the best so far! :)</p>

 

<p>I have an old Mamiya Press 23 (6x9 cm format). I can't use it because it has a light leak which I can't trace and it really grieves me that I am unable to use this camera.</p>

<p>You might try a drop or two of detergent in the water to help spread the oil. And I think a polarising filter might help.</p>

<p>I'm right-handed but always instinctively use my left eye. My left eye used to have greater acuity but now that is no longer the case however, regardless of that, for some reason, I cannot compose a picture using my right eye.</p>

<p>Use a film such as TMax 3200 or Delta 3200. Rate it at 800 ASA and dev in Rodinal, cutting dev time accordingly. This will give you a very flat neg. Then print it at Grade 4 or 5.</p>

<p>I concur with all of the above but would add that I use two-bath fixing and have done so for the last 11 years. You can find more about two-bath fixing in this forum. There is an excellent posting by Dan Schwartz from 2004. I also occasionally use Merck fixer tests strips to test the state of my fixer. Over the years I have evolved a two-bath fixing regime which assure that the negs will last as long as possible. I combine this with the Ilford Method for washing film to ensure the film is fully washed.</p>

<p>I am writing as a British citizen and a supporter of the principle of the European Union, but this proposal is utterly and completely absurd, not to say pernicious and directly contrary to the liberal principles of European culture. In the final analysis, if millions of people photograph, say, the Eiffel Tower, what could the European legislature do about it?</p>

<p>I have never heard of this. Combining developers seems an odd practice to my mind. I am a long-standing user of Rodinal (30-odd years) and the most I have ever done is to dilute it in 12% sodium sulphite to moderate the grain slightly. It also seemed to give more luminous mid-tones, but that is purely subjective.</p>

<p>I quote the estimable Bob Scwalberg:"One developing agent is best, two is okay, three is very suspect ..." :)</p>

<p>Over 30 years I have always used poly graduates and jugs etc. with no problems.</p>

<p>The other side of the new darkroom.</p><div></div>

<p>My rule of thumb is to give an additional stop of exposure per decade past the sell-by date. So halve the box speed and maybe give an extra 10 percent on development time to counter poss of contrast.</p>

<p>Lex,<br /> That is indeed a De Vere 203. We also have two Durst Laborators (Ce 1000 and 1000), two LPL C7700s, and two Durst 305s (one with colour head). We will be able to handle all formats from 5x4 down to 35mm.</p>

<p>View from the other end.</p><div></div>

<p>Here in Bristol, England, there is most definitely an increase in interest in film and especially b+w photography so much so that we are setting up a new public-access darkroom at The Bristol Folkhouse.</p><div></div>

<p>My favourite for portraits is the 180mm lens. I used to have the 250 but found the focal length just a little too long.</p>

Amidol was a popular developing agent for paper developers in times past.