kenneth_smith7

<p>Sorry Eugene, too many complex questions. As for an update I found something I didn't expect. My filters in the Omega Chromatic were not moving. The dials moved but I found that the levels that carried the filters were not moving, so spent some time with steel wool and WD 40. Now we'll try that chemistry again. After all Fuji, even the new Fuji paper is RA-4. Should work. Thanks</p>

<p>Sorry John. For the life of me I can't find the book. I own it, but I think read material has made way for incoming. I'll dig around some more later and see if I can find it. The important thing though, as Anders demonstrates, is the wholeness of this mans journey. While very independent throughout his life, there certainly was also a component of shared convictions during a time when great thinkers and artists were no so very many, and not so completely overshadowed by a consumer culture as we have now. Today there are countless excellent photographers, but have come to mean little more that Flickr kudos. Man Ray was of of time when the arts were a mission. Oddly enough todays achievement of "everyones an artist" has sort of diffused the impact of the message. Or maybe the message of the arts has been integrated. I'm not altogether sure. </p>

<p>I'll give this a try tomorrow. I'm not chemical intelligent enough to know about pH. What is it?<br>

How do you adjust it, why, and in what direction? Sorry, I do mix black and white chemistry from scratch, but I've never known about the qualities of, what I think is acidic vs. alkaia? </p>

<p>I read his bio a year ago. I think his significance visually is unquestioned. So much innovation for one man. But what stood out heads above even that was his integrity. Utter devotion to his vision. I am not one who returns to his work very much, though I probably should, however I always keep in mind how vigorously he protected his values in life.</p>

<p>Thanks for your time Bob. </p>

<p>Indeed the RA/RT is the way to go with Kodak papers, room temp trays. But I am curious, having invested in the chemicals to make my own RA-4 , I wonder why my results are an unyeilding red. <br>

APUG made a case against Fuji papers in room temp trays, but the RA-4 Home Brew from W. Laut mentions Fuji in the affirmative, where he states, "No need for brightners". He made no distinction between papers and only stated the need for longer times if the hydroxide was omitted.<br>

I have a mystery on my hands, and it bugs me to remain stumped. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Bob, I checked APUG and read where the problem may be in the paper. Apparently Fuji requires a different formula and higher temps. It did however develop well in a no longer available Fotospeed Kit. Now I'll have to find a Fuji RA4 Developer as I have a few boxes of paper here I hope to use.</p>

 

<p>Sorry if this is the wrong forum. I see no Color Darkroom here.<br>

So I very carefully have mixed an RA-4 Developer and Blix I found by William Laut online.<br>

Triethanolamine, S. Sulfite, CD-3, Potassium Carbonate, and Sodium Chloride. ( sans Potassium Hydroxide )<br>

The Blix is Ammonium Thiosulfate 60%. and Ferric Ammonium EDTA ( now impossible to find ).<br>

Results have been a red test strip which does not vary regardless of filtration. I imagine the dye layers are not being fully penetrated? But really have no idea what to think. I've tried different temps, and different times, with the same red result. CD-3 is a year old as far as I know, stored properly. My paper is Fuji Crystal Archive, new.<br>

Can anyone suggest anything to trouble shoot this? Seems like it would be nice to mix up a room temp. home brew RA-4, given the affordability of this color paper.<br>

Thank You, Ken Smith</p>