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billballardphotography

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Posts posted by billballardphotography

  1. I've used both of these lenses and found them to be excellent performers. However, I never really compared the two - FWIW, I had the IS version of the EF 300 2.8.

     

    The only thing I can recall is that the a few images (very few) made with the EF lens were a tad bit sharper than those produced with the FD gear, a fact I attribute to the IS function. Other than that, I don't remember noticing significant differences between them.

     

    Best regards -

  2. In addition to Michael's answer, I will add that in the past I have bought bodies and lenses from KEH graded as EX+, EX and BGN. I've also purchased other items, such as shoe mount flashes, PC cords, etc., as "New" and LN. The grades have been accurate and consistent across the board.

     

    With EX+, you can reasonably expect the piece to appear new.....perhaps upon very close scrutiny, you may find some indications of prior use. My only BGN purchase was a 300 f2.8 lens - the exterior looked as if it had been sandblasted, but the optics were flawless.

     

    As far as getting a "bad item", it has been my experience that KEH has honored their return/refund policy......

     

    Best regards --

  3. Unless there is an issue with the mount, (I'm not familiar with Pheonix lenses and their Canon compatability), your friend was likely referring to the multiplicity factor of the digital sensor, which is 1.6 - this effectively makes the 19-35 lens into a 30-55mm zoom.

     

    The 18-55 lens which is proprietary to the Rebel is supposed to duplicate the basic 28-105 lens field of view - at least that's the info I have at hand. I'm certain I'll be duly corrected if I'm wrong!

     

    Regards -

  4. I've used the 100 f2.8 Macro USM for portraits, and found it too sharp for my tastes. I now use the 100 f2 and it is, IMHO, a much better lens for portraiture.

     

    I've found the 100 f2 to be sufficiently sharp in the larger aperture range. Truthfully though, I can't recall an instance where I've shot this one wide open.

     

    My own opinions aside, the bottom line: either of these lenses will work, with the macro giving you the multi utility of being a superb macro lens.

     

    Best regards -

  5. I shoot the 3, (primarily with studio strobe and/or natural light), and in the very few times I've shot with the 550EX, I've not noticed any shift in the metering mode.........I'm sure someone else may be able to expand on this, however.

     

    You may also check other threads here, or take a look at www.photonotes.org for info.

     

    Best regards -

  6. I use the 3 in the studio with the PB-E2, and yes, it is heavy. However, the grip and the ability to use the shutter release at the base of the grip make it worthwhile for me. It's a great set-up when shooting horizontals.

     

    FWIW, I have the 1N too. I use it mostly for street shooting and for IR shoots. The noise level of the 3 or 1N has never been an issue for me - but then again, I've not shot wildlife since giving up my FD gear.

     

    Regards -

  7. John -

     

    I've used the 28-70L 2.8 extensively and have found it to an excellent and versatile peice of equipment. Most of my shooting is in the studio and/or on location and I've not yet found the weight to be an issue.....

     

    I also have the 70-200 2.8L, and yes, I drag it around too!!

     

    Best regards -

  8. No newer Canon body will accept the FD or FL lenses - the ones the

    AE-1 uses. The mounts are incompatible.

     

    Any body that is compatible with your lens inventory will be used. The most "current" or "updated" body would be the Canon T90. Of course, you could always replace it with another AE-1, or an A1, F1, F1N, Ftb or FTb-n.....there are several options.......none of them are, however, "current."

     

    Best regards -

  9. Don't throw it away, give it to me!! I've got two of them and would love a third!!

     

    How long have you had yours? The very early 3's had a software glitch that caused cronic underexposure, but that is a problem that can be easily (supposedly "easily" anyway) corrected by Canon.

     

    As far as the shutter release not working in "M" mode is concerned, I've not heard of this happening without the camera giving an indication of the problem on the LCD panel.

     

    While I'm sure it's frustrating, I think it's worth a look see - particularly if any warranty may apply - to find out what the problem could be. My 3's have been trouble free after a year or so of nearly daily use and who knows how many rolls of film - but if you still want to get rid of it, let me know......

  10. As I said in an earlier post in a similar thread, the 3 is my workhorse - my primary body. I have two of them and have not had any of the problems mentioned here and in the other threads.

     

    The earlier 3's did an exposure error, but that was corrected a few years ago - roughly 3 or more, if my memory is correct.

     

    I can't comment on the AF problems with 3rd party lenses as I have all Canon glass.

     

    Best regards -

  11. I have both bodies.......the only advantages, IMHO, that the 1N has over the 3 are:

     

    The 1N has 100% viewfinder coverage.

    The 1N can handle IR film.

     

    Other than these two points, (and of course, there may be more - these are the major points I'm aware of!), I believe the 3 is the superior camera - more sophisticated metering, faster auto-focus, etc.

     

    Of course, it is the photographer, not the camera that makes the image. Excellent results can be had with either body and good glass. The primary reason I have a 1N is for shooting IR film.

     

    Best regards -

  12. I have used Pan F for figure work in the past. IMHO, the film is too fine grained for working with all but the most flawless model. Currently, Pan F is my landscape/still life film of choice.

     

    For figure or glamour work, either in or out of the studio, I find the 100 ISO speed range to be preferred. Currently, I'm shooting Agfa APX 100 with absolutely stunning results.

     

    Best regards -

  13. <Also, there is a place to screw something in on the upper left side of the body. What is this for and is there a cap or what that should be here that is not. The sides of the round hole are threaded and there are a couple of holes inside where plug or other things may fit into.>

     

    That is where the battery goes. The battery operates the match needle metering system, but the camera will operate wihout the battery. If you find a reputable Canon authorized repair facility in your area, they can do a full CLA (clean, lubricate and adjust) that should include replacing the battery cap and the foam seals, in addition to other things you may not be aware of.

     

    You may want to have the meter adjusted to operate on the currently available 1.5 volt batteries. The original meter voltage was 1.35 volts, and worked from a mercury battery, something no longer available or very, very hard to find and dispose of - legally. While there are "zinc-air" batteries available that claim to be 1.35 volts, I've found them to be unreliable, causing the meter to be off by varying degrees in either direction. Once the meter is adjusted, the 1.5 volt batteries perform nicely.

     

    These are excellent cameras!! You can find FD/FL lenses that will work with the camera all over the place - consignment counters in pro shops, the web, etc. Try KEH Camera Brokers at <www.keh.com> as a starting place; you can find lenses, manuals, etc. There are also numerous web sites for FD gear where manuals are available in PDF format. There also is (or used to be!) a very active Canon FD group on Yahoo! eGroups.

     

    Good luck, and have fun!

     

    I have one of these cameras to shoot infrared and night time shots requiring long exposures. I love it, and I'll never part with it!! It also serves as a mechanical backup to my EOS system.

  14. I use APX 100 for my nude figure work with wonderful results. I also develop with D-76 1:1 and have had absolutely no problems with this film/developer combination.

     

    Based on my experiences in the studio, I would not suggest using anything slower than ISO 100 for figure work, unless your model is absolutely 100% flawless. I've shot figures before with Ilford Pan-F......a bit too much detail!!

     

    Best regards -

  15. I've been shooting two EOS 3 bodies for nearly a year......I've put a combined total of (approximately) 100 rolls of film through both since January 1 of this year.........both outdoors and in the studio......the 97% (some say 98%) viewfinder coverage has not yet been an issue!

     

    I agree with the statements about weatherproofing......and FWIW, the price you quoted does seem to be a very fair price for a used 1V as long as the grading is accurate.

     

    Best regards -

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