frankl

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i like my 35mm F2.0 AF lens on the D70, it gives me a nice speedy indoor lens. Alas however, it's affected by the oily blades problem and will need a cleaning soon. It works fine if you shoot it near to wide open, but outdoors at 5.6 or so it shows a problem (overexposure).

 

The 30mm f1.4 sigma is very nice as well, i've used my friends and quite liked it, but the cost was too high and wouldn't work on my film rig. Let us know how the sigma works out if you get one.

CS2 is reading the EXIF information in your converted RAW files and thinking they're all the same exposure. Try saving each one as 16-bit TIFFs and then loading them for the HDR or modifying the EXIF some other way.

 

I've successfully done HDR from +1/0/-1 versions of a RAW file (it was a 15 second exposure with water movement so there was no other option). I had very good results with it, but i gave up on photoshop and used Photomatix to do the HDR and then did my final tweaking in photoshop.

i picked up one for my FA on that auction site. i left a search running for 'nikon fa grip' and some eventually turned up.

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As someone who moved from a coolpix 950 to a Sony F828 for infrared, let me tell you, it's a huge jump up. The detail and quality of the Sony images is stellar in comparison. By the way, a lot of current digicams can do infrared, but require tripods due to long exposures. The reason why the Sony's are famous is the Nightshot feature that lets you do handheld IR photography.

 

Look in the used markets, lots of 717s or 828s for you. The 828 has the nicer body, the 28-200 built in zoom is suprisingly good quality. My 2.5 year old F828 is still working great, 30,000+ shots later.

Hi Lisa,

 

Rebate borders are where you see the edge of the negative (black border) around the photo. TIW is one of the best film labs in the city, they've never screwed up my film, unlike a certain other lab in the city (cough, west camera, cough).

Pikto is probably the best digital lab in the city at the moment. You can upload photos via their website, or email them for FTP access. Turnaround is quick and they provide an ICC profile that helps you get accurate results.

 

TIW is good too, but I use them for film jobs only, in particular black and white film and proof printing (they do rebate borders).

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I got a 72mm 89B filter from Harrison and Harrison. It was surprisingly reasonably priced after I shocked myself looking at R72 pricing for the same size. I prefer threaded filters to square ones.

 

I've bought a number of IR filters, 89B, 87's etc from H&H over the years. They've been around since the 1940's.

 

Here's their contact info to get a quote :

HarrisonOP@aol.com - (877) 213-6787

 

All the IR photos in my portfolio here are taken with H&H filters.

 

Hope this helps.

yes you can do what you're looking to do with external flashes on the 950 :

http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/EXT-FLASH/NIKON/NIKON-use-M-950.html

 

I used to own a 950, it's a great little IR camerra. It shoots at 1/60th in sun, so I never bothered looking into modifying it.

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TIW is the best 'pro lab' in the city that i've visited downtown. I take all my critical stuff there. They also do actual b/w proof prints on b/w paper with a optical enlarger - you'll notice the difference if you're used to seeing b/w proofs from a digital minilab, no pixelization and some program averaging your exposure.

 

For colour stuff I often use WestLab since they do a good job on their colour prints (fuji frontiers in the back) and can do black rebate borders if you want. They also do b/w proof prints but via the digital minilab.

Well, since i stopped printing 8x10s due to time contraints (less chance to darkroom now) i've been piling up 11x14s. I cant imagine sending these to a service for scanning. I'm only talking about needing scans for web-posting by the way like here on photo.net. I figure an alternate idea would be some sort of homebrew copystand. My tripod does let me flip the center column upside down. Could I use two halogen desk lamps from ikea and get acceptable results does anyone think?

Hi Folks,

 

Does anyone have any good suggestions for how to scan 11x14 prints on

a 8.5x11 flatbed scanner? I tried scanning each side and then

putting the two together, but it didn't really work out. I'm using

Vuescan for the scanning.

 

Or if this isn't going to work, is there an easy way to make a copy

table using a reversible tripod, or suggestions on how to prop up the

photos for taking photos of them? I tried one outside on a cloudy

day, but still saw a lot of exposure change across the image. All my

prints are on agfa semi-matte paper.

 

Thanks for any pointers in the right direction.. If it works i'll have

lots of new content to post on photo.net, since all my darkroom prints

are now 11x14 and above.

 

-Frank