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lubos_soltes

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Posts posted by lubos_soltes

  1. <p>I am just starting my MF career, been shooting with Nikon F100/F80 bodies so far.</p>

    <p>as to the film choice, I prefer the Fuji slide films and Kodak color print films ... fo B&W work, I guess Ilford or Kodak are good. I still have to test some of the Ilford films.</p>

    <p>Fuji Provia is a great and universal slide film, also the 400iso version is great. Velvia cannot be bested for landscapes.</p>

    <p>Kodak Portra line of print films is also an excelent choice. They cover almost anything you'd like to do in various saturation and speed variants.</p>

    <p>My only issue in MF is that Fuji does not manufacture Sensia in 120 format :-(</p>

  2. <p>The hole seems to be a custom job done by the previous owner. probably to improvise a sports finder.</p>

    <p>It is actualy on the front face of the wlf when you have it opened. you will get light leaked into the wlf this way. maybe you should ask the previous owner what the purpose of the hole is.</p>

  3. <p>hmm ... I ordered a Bronica ETRSi kit from ffordes last week (body+wlf, 75 PE lens, back). Was about 275gbp with shipping to the Continent. I also took my mothers old Lubitel 2 TLR.</p>

    <p>Since I am waiting on the Bronica to arrive, I cannot give any oppinion yet, but the Lubitel is refreshingly basic to operate (had a Nikon F100 before). The TLRs are realy limited, but for casual shooting without any excess requirements (macro photography, wide angle lens) they are quite fun.</p>

  4. Dan, the MFDB quality has increased quite a lot. However the same issues that keep the prices high also slow the development process.

     

    We have come from a few MP to 40+MP backs. Size increased. We have touch screen displays, multiple tethering options, better batery life, beter ISO performance and the list goes on. Maybe the progress is not that fast as on DSLRs, but the market for MFDBs has different requirements.

     

    If you take into account the manufacturing costs of the larger surface area then it should be clear development is also much more expensive than with smaller chips. Your dev samples cost more to produce.

  5. <p>Hi all</p>

    <p>I got from some posts, that the M645 leaf shutter lenses can be automaticaly cocked by the camera via power drive grip. Which grip model does this (WG401, WG402 or the grip from the Super model or all of them) ??</p>

    <p>Also on KEH, the L/S lenses are advertised with an accessory named Connect N. I assume this is the coupling between the grip and the lens to cock the shutter. Now is this universal for all the lens models (55/80/150mm) or is it specific for each lens ? Other way around, do I just need one (from any of the lenses) to use the auto-cocking feature with all of them ?</p>

    <p>thanks for the answers</p>

  6. <p>Jimmy, that's exactly my problem ... there's conflicting information floating around. Some people say the tubes an be stacked, the Bronica manual says not to do it. However I have not found anybody confirming he successfuly stacked the tubes and the setup worked.</p>
  7. <p>Hi all</p>

    <p>I've done some googling around about Bronica ETR* macro options. It seems I cannot find reasonable information on the extension tubes and bellows:</p>

    <p>1. Do the extension tubes work when stacked ? Can they be stacked at all ?<br>

    2. Anybody used the bellows ? I can find 0 (zero) information on the Bronica bellows.</p>

    <p>thanks for any information</p>

  8. <p>Dan: looking at the iphone photo, the slides definitely look good. so it must be a scanner or scanner software issue. vuescan pro can profile your scanner with an profiling target (they can be bought on the net). however that's the expensive way. first try vuescan trial or silferfast trial to compare. if that fails, return the scanner as defective.</p>
  9. Hi Dan

     

    I don't have experience with an Epson flatbed, but I was using a Minolta Dimage scanner for 35mm. I had to dial a + exposure in the scanner software most of the time to get a good scan. The D700 does not have a 100iso setting. The 100iso equivalent is a 200iso exposure with curve manipulation.

     

    The Vuescan suggestion was already made and I strongly recommend you try the trial version of Vuescan for testing. I've seen a test report for V600 where the Epson scanning software was giving very bad results while Vuescan delivered much better images. Also film scanning is quite an art in itself.

     

    One last thing, get the slide scanned at a lab to compare results.

  10. <p><br /><strong>Like you, I have pondered this same question, and am still sitting on the fence. I have a barely used RZ ProII, and 37 Fisheye, 50ULD, 65L-A, 110/2.8, 140 Macro, 150/3.5, and 210 APO lenses... as well as additional Backs, Motor, 1.4 TC, Extension Tubes, Remote Trigger, Polaroid back, Grip, numerous odds and ends, and a Tamrac Rolling bag that holds most of it.<br /><br />Most all of this was purchased new, though I did get much of it at student discount. However, even discounted, that was still a lot of money. Today, all together, it's worth $2000 to $3000 depending on how the wind is blowing. It's such a big potential loss, I keep procrastinating. That said, I haven't run a roll of film through it since I can't remember when, though I keep promising myself I will... and I've really got the itch for an 8x10 field camera.</strong></p>

    <p>OMG you have my dream kit there. Just missing the T/S adapter.<strong> </strong></p>

  11. <p><strong>You will use your proposed medium format camera for macro mostly and you have a strict budget and you seem to prefer leaf shutter lenses. Leaf shutter lenses are generally more expensive than lenses without the shutter in them. Does one need leaf shutter lenses for macro work? No. So why not consider the Pentax 67 with its two macro lenses, auto bellows, close up tubes, helicoid tube and many other inexpensive lenses that are not macro but can be used successfully in macro work? I do a lot of macro work with mine and am happy with the results.</strong></p>

    <p>Well leaf shutters help with controlled lighting and flash usage outdoors (like flowers, bugs and such). A 1/60 or lower sync speed is largely useles on a sunny summer day with flash.<strong> </strong>Also I prefer small flash usage to permanent lights for product/tabletop.</p>

    <p>I forgot to mention, removable backs are a must have feature and the Pentax does not compete there.</p>

    <p>Anyway, I am more and more considering the M645 Pro/tl as the right choice. With the auto bellows and a Nikon to Mamiya adapter, I gain macro and front standart movements with a host of Mamiya lenses also for the Nikons.</p>

    <p>I generaly do not print larger than 11x16" so a 645 sized film should be plenty for me.</p>

  12. <p><strong>A Hasselblad is more than just a square format camera. You can buy a 6x4.5 back.</strong></p>

    <p>Well a Hassy is not made for verticals in case a 645 back is attached. It's a square format camera also in the handling. Also an RZ67 is even better in that case, it can make 6x7, 6x6 and 6x4.5 pictures.</p>

    <p>Bruce: how do you handle verticals with the GS-1, I usualy find myself with 60% of vertical shots after I get a film processed :-) Also is there a tilt/shift lens or adapter of any kind available for the Bronica ?</p>

    <p>Originaly I started with an RZ67 as primary choice, but size concerns made me switch to M645 pro.</p>

  13. <p>Hi all<br /><br />I'm following this board (and digging in history) for a few months. The people here are quite helpful and have much knowledge and experience. After my searching adventures, I still have a couple of issues in picking a medium format system for me.<br /><br />Currently I am shooting with Nikon F100 and F80 + couple of lenses. My main photography focus is macro and my family. I am missing some features in my current Nikon equipment and getting any single of them will cost me some. So I considered adding a medium format system for my macro work and keep the Nikons for other uses.<br /><br />Here's the main issue. My budget is limited to about 600euros. This are the results of my search so far:<br /><br />Mamiya M645 pro/tl:<br /><br /> + just a larger SLR, almost everything available (macro lenses, extension tubes, bellows T/S, leaf shutter lenses)<br /><br /> - smallest MF film size, have to turn camera for verticals, limites focal lengths on leaf shutter lenses<br /><br />Bronica ETRSi:<br /><br /> + leaf shutters in all lenses, light, cheap<br /><br /> - no clue about bellows, oldest design and longest out of support<br /><br />Mamiya RZ67:<br /><br /> + leaf shutters, bellows focus, large film size, rotating backs<br /><br /> - large and hard to hand hold/transport, limited T/S adapter<br /><br />Mamiya RB67:<br /><br /> same +/- as RZ67. heavier and bulkier. also it's a mechanical camera. I have never found a post/article about how often maintenance is needed on the body and lenses to tune them back to proper timings, this is the largest unknown.<br /><br /><br />I do not like the square format so no Rollei/Hasselblad for me. I can crop to 6x6 from 6x7 if needed (or get a 6x6 back). Also digital options are a + but not a must have (new are way out of my budget and I think scanner+film is quite sufficient for my needs).<br />I am well aware that nobody can make the decision for me, so I'd appreciate any input on the RB67 maintenance requirements and Bronica accesories availability. So far I am more on the M645 Pro side with RZ67 being second. However price is a big concern.<br /><br />thanks for any input</p>
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