Jump to content

joe_cormier

Members
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by joe_cormier

  1. <p>Mark,</p>

    <p>EXCELLENT! Since I am a novice at LR-3, after adjusting the nef image for sharpness, detail, etc and then comparing<br>

    it against the jpeg, I appears to me that the jpeg is still sharper than the adjusted nef. Is that possible? Joe</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>I was trying an experiment using my Nikon d-300s. I wanted to compare sharpness of a jpeg to a nef file. I set my<br>

    camera to nef/jpeg fine and my picture control to vivid and increased the sharpening to #9. When I imported the files<br>

    into Lightroom 3, only the raw file was visable. How can I compare both in lightroom. I do understand the advantage<br>

    of a raw file but was interested in how close a jpeg could come to a raw file. </p>

    <p> Thanks in advance for responding!!!!</p>

    <p> Joe</p>

  3. <p>Thanks to all,</p>

    <p> I find it interesting that some liked the detail in the mountains while others wanted them more dark. <br>

    The software is very easy to use. My goal was only to define the shadows and highlights better. I only merged<br>

    the photos without using any presets or adjustments in the software. Perhaps that contributed to the "flatness"<br>

    that Dennis saw. Joe</p>

     

  4. <p>I just wanted to post my first H.D.R. image using Nik's new Efex Pro software.<br>

    Nikon D-300s with 11-18mm lens. 5 shots 1 stop increments. Would appreciate<br>

    helpful comments. <br>

    Joe</p>

    <p> </p><div>00Xe1C-299753584.jpg.a2d1a5c96a61707c231950798658d0d4.jpg</div>

  5. <p>I am looking for a way to download my photos from my D300s directly to a portable hard drive. I do not want<br>

    to download to a computer then to the hard drive. Does such a system exist? As always, thanks in advance!</p>

    <p> Joe</p>

  6. <p>I'm looking for a chart that will tell me what f-stop will give the sharpest image. I am<br>

    using a 70mm-200mm 2.8 VR11. Thanks in advance, Joe</p>

  7. <p>To All,<br>

    I am looking for the proper brush and cleaning solution for the Nikon D300s sensor. There seems<br>

    to be an infinite variety. My understanding is that this sensor is comprised of tin oxide and requires<br>

    a special cleaning solution. As always your help is invaluable. Joe</p>

  8. <p>My D-80 has an ISO setting of 100. My D-300s has and ISO setting of L 1.0 which I'm told<br>

    is the equivalent of an ISO setting of 100. Is there a difference in noise level, or quality of<br>

    image using L 1.0 vs. 200 in my D300s?<br>

    Thanks,<br>

    Joe</p>

  9. <p> Actually I was trying to create an H.D.R. image. The 1/250th shot did not have any fall off on the Histogram. I<br>

    used that setting to bring out detail in the highlights. I am disappointed that using this technique increases<br>

    the noise level. Any way of working around this for H.D.R. ?</p>

  10. <p>I took 2 identical shots on tripod. D300s<br>

    1st shot f11 at 1/60th sec. iso 200 spot metering on exact same focal point<br>

    2nd shot f11 at 1/250th sec. iso 200 spot metering on exact same focal point<br>

    The results were significantly different. The color saturation at 1/250th was much greater than at 1/60th. Also<br>

    the noise more evident as well. can someone explain this to me ?<br>

    as always thanks!</p>

    <p> Joe</p>

     

  11. <p>My wife knocked over her tripod with her d-300s on it. The 55-200mm lens broke off from the lens<br>

    mount. The camera is ok and different lenses work ok. The 55-200 mounting flange broke off. Its a very thin<br>

    piece of plastic approx. 1/16" thick and 1 inch long. Any chance of repairing it, or if it is repairable is it worth<br>

    the cost of repair since the lens is only worth $200. Thanks in advance.</p>

    <p> Joe</p>

  12. <p>This may sound like a stupid question but...<br>

    under other than low light situations, using my d-300s with my meter zeroed out, iso set to 200 can<br>

    shutter speed or aperture affect noise?<br>

    Thanks always,<br>

    Joe</p>

     

  13. <p>I am trying to improve my photos by concentrating on detail in both highlights<br>

    and shadows. I own a Nikon D300s. Will I achieve similar results if I take multible<br>

    exposure shots with various shutter speeds using that feature in the D-300 menu or<br>

    CS3's HDR feature?<br>

    Thanks,<br>

    Joe</p>

     

  14. <p>Hmmmmmm, seems I'm a bit confused. Sorry, I did mean Photomatrix. However, I was not referring to bracketing but rather my built in multiple exposure setting. With bracketing on my d300s I am limited to 5 shots. With multiple exposures I can capture 10 shots and they will be combined into 1 photo. I manually set the shutter speed and f-stop and then switch to aperture priority and shoot the shots off in continuous mode. I am assuming that since all shots were combined that I captured the entire range of highlights and shadows. If so my question remains. <br>

    If I did not bracket or use exposure compensation, how did the camera select a different shutter speed for each of the (6 ) shots that were taken? I took 1 shot in manual mode to use as a comparison to the resulting multiple exposure shot. The settings are as follows.<br>

    1. manual was set at shutter speed .7<br>

    2. aperture priority was set to 6.7</p>

    <p>The resulting multiple exposure was at aperture 6.7 and the shutter speed at 1/60 sec. Again, what criteria did the camera use to assign shutter speeds to each of the six shots? If an hdr image is created using this method, it appears to me to be much more efficient that the above (APPRECIATED) methods. <br>

    Thanks for being patient with me!<br>

    Joe</p>

    <p> </p>

  15. <p> I have experimented with CS-3 as well as Photomerge for H.D.R. conversion. As usual , I over do it<br>

    and my photos look like something out of a freak show. I want to use my D300s for this purpose. I have<br>

    2 questions.</p>

    <p> 1. My manual states "... and produce results with colors noticeably better than photographs combined<br>

    in an imaging application because they make use of RAW data from the camera image sensor". Is this<br>

    true?</p>

    <p> I understand all of the menu selections for H.D.R. setup. I will be shooting under the following<br>

    conditions.<br>

    a. aperture preferred<br>

    b. exposure delay ( 1 sec.)<br>

    c. manual focus<br>

    d. auto gain on<br>

    e. continuous shooting mode<br>

    f. tripod</p>

    <p> 2. My second question is how does the camera select the proper shutter speeds (+ or -) to assign to<br>

    each shot. How can I over ride those shutter speeds to create a greater range of highlights and<br>

    shadows? The procedure in the manual does not explain this.</p>

    <p> As always, thanks in advance. This is the most informative web site I have come across.</p>

    <p> Joe</p>

    <p> </p>

  16. <p> On my first trial run of my d300s, I had planned to shoot a bike race through the hills of New York.<br>

    As I began to shoot, I receive an error message in my camera that my brand new SanDisk CF extreme 3 8 gig<br>

    card had failed!. Fortunately for me I had an SD card in my secondary slot. Unfortunately my primary was in<br>

    raw and the sd card in jpeg.<br>

    I followed all proceedures, formating disk (only using camera), shutting off and turning back on etc, checked<br>

    the card file (999) . </p>

    <p> My questions are these,</p>

    <p> 1. I've been noticing alot of card failure issues lately and wonder is this an ongoing problem?</p>

    <p> 2. I bought this card through Amazon, any chance of them sending me a new card?</p>

    <p> Thanks,<br>

    Joe</p>

    <p> </p>

  17. <p>Thanks to all,<br>

    1. Thanks for pointing out that I should have identified my camera as a d-300s<br>

    2. Yes I did format all cards after installing in camera<br>

    3. you are correct that 16bit file is much larger than 12/14 file<br>

    4. I was not aware of such a large discrepancy in the frames available and actual frames<br>

    produced.<br>

    5. Shun's answer best answers my problem. I wish Nikon would have figured out how to have<br>

    the larger capacity card determine any limitations vs. the smaller capacity card.</p>

    <p>thanks to all!<br>

    Joe</p>

×
×
  • Create New...