AlRohrer

<p>@Andrew Rodney. Does correcting the overall magenta cast also work when using a Huey Pro on a Sony laptop? If so, please point me toward more information on how to do this.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Al Rohrer</p>

<p>I have subscribed to both on a monthly basis and still do. Both allow you to turn on or off your account with no problem so I usually go two or three months on one, then switch to the other for a couple of months. Both offer much of the same material but in different ways and each offers things the other doesn't.<br>

Try them both, I think you'll like either of them.</p>

 

<p>I attended one of his 3 day Almost Alone Seminars in 2008. He is a great guy and the cost of his seminar is ridiculously low compared to others, and you'll come away with much more than your money's worth. I highly recommend him.<br>

By the way, you'll find many accomplished photographers do repeats of David's seminars. Next time he's anywhere close to me, I'm going back.<br>

Check him out.<br>

Al</p>

<p>You are probably looking for David A. Williams. Google "Almost Alone Seminars". He is the best.</p>

 

<p>This young hawk is preparing to make his first flight. He sat on this limb a good part of Tuesday morning close to the nest and watched his parents leave and return from their hunting trips. Had a Canon 20D and 300 f/4L, ISO 200, 1/500, f/4. This image has been cropped considerably as he was very high up.</p>

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<p>Somebody with experience with the Intuos 2 who has moved up to the Intuos 4 please answer the man's question! I'm in the same boat, using an Intuos 2 with a 6x8 pad, and wondering if there is any real advantage to upgrading. </p><p>I use the Intuos 2 instead of a mouse for all purposes and am happy with it so don't want to waste money without some real benefit.</p><p>Thank you, Robert X, for asking the question I've been meaning too. Now if we can get an answer to that question. </p><p>Al<br></p>

<p>That book would be <strong>Photography,</strong> 10th Edition, by Barbara London/Upton, available at Amazon. To round your education out, get <strong>Light: Science & Magic</strong> by Hunter/Biver/Fuqua, which will soon be out in it's Fourth Edition and you may also want to add <strong>Understanding Exposure</strong> by Peterson.</p><p>There are plenty of other books I could recommend on photographic subjects but none cover the full spectrum of photography the way these three do. </p><p>Some recommended reading:<br></p><p><strong>Spirit of Place</strong>, Kris</p><p><strong>Visual Poetry</strong>, Orwig</p><p><strong>Within the Frame</strong>, Duchemin</p><p>Enjoy!</p><p>Al<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>

<p>All Canon EF lens will work with the 1DMkII. The EF-<strong>S </strong>lens will not work. L or non-L makes no difference.<br>

As far as your friend's asking price, I would rather pay someone I know and trust a little more than take a chance on a "better deal" from someone I don't know. The 1DMkII is an excellent performer. I have one that I no longer need but find myself picking it up and using it anyway. It will not be for sale any time soon as I believe it is permanently attached to my 70-300 f/4-5.6L IS lens.<br>

Al</p>

<p>I have the 70-300 f/4-5.6L IS. My brother has the 100-400. I prefer mine, he prefers his. The focus on mine is faster and the IS is better, his has the longer reach. Both are excellent lenses. Try them both before you buy. You won't be sorry either way.</p>

 

<p>My brother is a photographer who still shoots with a 30D and when I suggest he might want to upgrade, he asks me "Why?". He moved to it from a 10D (which he kept as backup). He even shoots with a non-IS 70-200 f/2.8L lens and a (gasp!) 28--135 consumer grade lens!<br>

His clients never complain and his nature work is awesome.<br>

I shoot with a 5D MkII but I still have my 20D and it's my everyday go-to lens and has never let me down nor have I ever felt undergunned with it.<br>

Enjoy your 30D. It's an excellent piece of equipment.</p>

<p>Jay,<br>

I have a brand new, still-in-the-box and bubble-wrapped Canon PB-E2 Power Drive Booster including instruction manual and original unfilled-out warranty card that has never been on a camera if you are interested. I'll take $150.00 for it and that will include shipping and insurance. This offer is good to you for 10 days from date originally posted.<br>

I still have 2 EOS3s, one with power booster and one without. I decided to leave it that way.<br>

If you are interested, email me at alrohrerphoto@gmail.com with PB-E2 in the subject line. I don't like paypal so I'll take your check, mailed to my home address, and I'll ship you the power booster by US Mail or UPS, your choice.</p>

<p>Let me know if you are interested.<br>

Al Rohrer</p>

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<p>Another consideration is the recently released 70-300 f/4-5.6L IS. I've only had mine a little over a week but the focus and IS are awesome, hand holdable at shutter speeds well below what I've ever been able to achieve before. Not cheap though, costs close to what 100-400 costs. It's compact, shorter than most of the other telephotos, but not cheaply made, feels rock solid in your hand and on the camera.<br>

The 100-400 is blessed by many and cursed by some. I have no real experience with it but my brother has one and has had it for many years and it is tack sharp and the IS works good. Only drawback I see to the 100-400 is it is an older design but if it is what I wanted, I wouldn't let that bother me.<br>

I also have the older Canon 300 f/4L (w/o IS) and while you can't hand hold it at lower shutter speeds, it is super sharp.<br>

Al Rohrer</p>

<p>We drove up from San Diego to San Francisco along the coast last summer (2010) and most of my shots were with the Canon 5D MkII and a 24-105 f/4L. That and a 300mm f/4L were all we used though we had an assortment of lenses with us. The image here was shot with the 24-105 at 60mm.<br /> For your 60D, a 10-22 wide lens would probably be nice to have. For our full frame camera, we felt the 24mm was wide enough but next time, we'll be carrying a 70-300 or 100-400 for the few times we needed the reach.<br /> I would also suggest at least one fast prime, 24-28-35mm range, for foggy days and late evening shots. Even a 50mm f/1.8 might do.<br /> Beautiful trip. I live in Missouri but will be driving out to do it again soon. Have fun.<br /> Al Rohrer</p><div></div>

<p>We drove up from San Diego to San Francisco along the coast last summer (2010) and most of my shots were with the Canon 5D MkII and a 24-105 f/4L. That and a 300mm f/4L were all we used though we had an assortment of lenses with us.<br>

For your 60D, a 10-22 wide lens would probably be nice to have. For our full frame camera, we felt the 24mm was wide enough but next time, we'll be carrying a 70-300 or 100-400 for the few times we needed the reach.<br>

I would also suggest at least one fast prime, 24-28-35mm range, for foggy days and late evening shots. Even a 50mm f/1.8 might do.<br>

Beautiful trip. I live in Missouri but will be driving out to do it again soon. Have fun.<br>

Al Rohrer</p>

 

<p>I have and use the 35 f/2 on an EOS 3, 5D MkII, and 20D. Am completely satisfied with it. I have also been considering purchasing the Canon 28 f/1.8 to add to my arsenal but haven't tried it out yet.</p>

<p>You and I both, John. It is the "creative process" that inspires me, even more than the ultimate image.<br>

Sometimes though, I have found that creative process aside, you have to recognize when you have a great image in front of you, and <strong>make that shot</strong>. You may not be at the correct ISO, the preferred Aperture, or even the required Shutter Speed, you may be too close or too far from your subject, the lighting not optimal, or you may have only your cell phone camera in your hand, but you recognize what is there and you get it!<br>

So really there are two reasons I take pictures, one for the creative process and second for the chance to capture a once-in-a-lifetime image.</p>

<p>At this stage of my life (I'm 64), my old friends no longer share my interests and I have failed to make new friends, my wife has her own interests, the kids live far away and have their own kids and lives, and I have only my cameras, my computer and my pickup truck.<br>

Why do I take pictures? Because I can't stop! I have boxes of negatives and prints from my film days and am filling up 500+ Gb hard drives with digital negatives every year and I cull deeply but I can't stop myself!<br>

I take pictures because I love every aspect of it, the learning, the preparation, the capture, the editing, the printing, and savoring the completed image.<br>

Am I good at it? Who knows? Who cares? I do it because I am a Photographer, and I will not stop!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Barring specific advise from my own lawyer to the contrary, I would remove his images from my website and any advertising but keep a copy of them and would ignore his request/demand for copies of 'his' images and/or information about 'your' clients. My position would be that keeping up with his images is not your responsibility since he was an employee and not a client.<br>

I would contact a lawyer for advice before taking or failing to take any action.<br>

Good Luck!</p>

<p>I have both. I prefer the 85mm for portraits but see no problem in using the 100mm macro.</p>

 

<p><em><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1665456">Harry Joseph</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub6.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jan 03, 2011; 07:01 p.m. </em></p>

 

<p><em>The photographer is like the Architect of a home. He decides how he/she, or his clients want the house to look, by design or visualization. He directs the carpenters, electricians, plumbers, cement layers, laborers, painters, roofers etc according to the final plan. <strong>Anyone of these could have hit the shutter button.</strong></em><br>

<em><strong><br /></strong></em><br>

Of course they could have, but knowing <strong>when</strong> to hit the shutter button is as important as designing or directing. My opinion anyway.<br>

Al Rohrer<br>

<em><br /></em></p>

 

<p>I have the EF 28-70 f/2.8L, 200 f/2.8L I, and the 300 f/4L, all excellent lenses and regularly used on the 5D MkII and 1D MkII.</p>

<p>Collectors item, no, user, yes. I still have two Canon G2 (4 megapixel) cameras. Used in RAW at 100 ISO and with decent lighting, I have some excellent images out of them. One stays in the car and one in the truck. No match for my 5D MkII but better than my iPhone.</p>

<p>Neat Image and Focus Magic. Deleted all the rest. Using PS CS 5.</p>

<p>I've got a 28-135 I bought when it was first introduced, used with an Elan 7 and EOS 3. Only complaint I ever had about it was that it was slow to focus. Sharpness and picture quality was never an issue. My wife uses it now with her 20D.<br>

I know pro photographers that still use this lens, one with a 30D, the other with a 5D. My daughter is a part-time pro portrait photographer and she uses a 28-135 with my old 10D and does some beautiful work. I just printed a 11x14 for her from this combination and I should have kept the 10D.<br>

I shoot with a 5D Mk II and 1D Mk II now, have Canon 28-70 f/2.8L and 24-105 f/4L IS plus a bag of primes.<br>

What I'm getting at is if you're not doing a lot of low light work, the 28-135 should work just fine.<br>

Al Rohrer</p>

<p>I use 1/4, 1/2, and full CTS. Have one flash the 1/4 stays on all the time, even works good outdoors to put a little warmth in midday images. Hardly ever use more but I gauge how much is needed on visual inspection of the image. If it looks good, leave it alone, if it doesn't, add some. Not very scientific but pleasing images.<br>

Al Rohrer</p>