eric_mogren

<p>A good Rolleiflex is a work of technological art and a joy to use, but you can get almost the same camera for less with a Rolleicord. Look for V series 'cords, as they are, IMHO, the best Rollei "bang for the buck."</p>

<p>What do you need, and how much do you want to pay? My Epson V600 Perfection scanner works perfectly with my Mac, the price was reasonable, and BW scans are very nice.</p>

<p>What do you need, and how much do you want to pay? My Epson V600 Perfection scanner works perfectly with my Mac, the price was reasonable, and BW scans are very nice.</p>

<p>Rolleicord V (1955). It is a simple, beautiful piece of equipment that is always a pleasure to use. </p>

<p>Andre Noble:<br>

I am not certain how a MF camera offers a beginner any better training in photography than a 35mm from the beginning. Indeed, it is likely more cost-effective to shoot 35mm than 120, which can be helpful for a beginner who wants to experiment and generally learn how to balance all the factors that go into film shooting. I know that I appreciated already knowing how to shoot film before I took the MF plunge. I would also offer different advice regarding a tripod. Of the hundreds of thousands of images I have shot over the years, I very, very seldom used a tripod -- and for many of those years I shot Kodachrome 25, which was about the slowest film on the planet, without a need for a tripod.</p>

<p>I began shooting film when I was twelve -- let's just say that was a long time ago...<br>

I second the suggestion for a 35mm camera. I my first camera was an Argus C3 brick. I shot two Pentax K1000 cameras (froze one solid and shattered the mechanism on a mountaineering trip, sold the other), and still have two Pentax MX cameras and very old Honeywell Pentax. The advantage to these sorts of cameras is that they are durable, light weight, easy to use, and have very good internal light meters that help teach you how to shoot film. Best of all, today these cameras can be purchased used at places for around $150-$200 (if you buy used Pentax, buy the Japanese made ones, not the Hong Kong or Chinese made ones), can be serviced (if necessary) very reasonably, and used lenses are easy to find and fairly inexpensive. I found in years past that most BW film has such good grain that blowing-up 35mm to 8x10, or even 11x16, was not a problem. For your budget, you can buy an excellent Pentax set-up with two lenses at least.<br>

Good Luck, and have fun whatever you decide! </p>

<p>Dana:<br>

Are you using a light, medium, or deep yellow full-time?</p>

<p>JDM, Marc:<br>

Are you recommending a polarizer for the black and white film, or for the color (if I take some...) I shot Kodachrome (remember how wonderful it was to shoot Kodachrome 25...?) and Kodacolor for thirty years in my 35mm cameras with a clear polarizer, so I appreciate the difference it can make for color, but am less certain about its effect on black and white film.</p>

<p>First, thanks for the replies!</p>

<p>Andrew: With your mid-yellow filter, what film are you shooting? In other words, are some films/film speeds more successful with a mid-yellow?<br>

Brian: What slower speed film would you recommend for black and white?<br>

Marc: I am also taking a couple of dig. cameras with me, too. BUT, if YOU wanted to take a 120 color film on such a trip, what would you recommend?<br>

Dave: You like a light-yellow-green. What film are you using, and what change in aperture adjustments do you make with it, if any?</p>

<p>As to nuts, well I have already gotten some curious stares with my beautiful coffee-can. Most folks are simply curious. "Nuts" for me on this trip is that I must keep my total personal baggage weight to about 20lbs!!</p>

<p>Thanks, again!<br>

Eric</p>

 

<p>BTW, here are a couple of images I shot with this camera and film last year.<br>

http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=5783523</p>

<p>Hello everyone:<br>

I am spending two weeks at the bottom of the Grand Canyon in July, and am planning to take my Rolleicord V with me to shoot black and white landscapes. I will be shooting Kodak Tri-X 400 film. I know, it sounds nuts, but it is a bit of an “old school” rowing trip, so I thought an “old school” camera would be fun to take.<br>

I have never used colored filters before, so I wanted to get some input from those who have more experience. I am looking for a filter that will “pop” the sky and clouds, without loosing detail of the landscape. What filter would you recommend, and why (as I recall, it takes a bay-1 size)? Also, if you know, what aperture adjustments would I need to make with the filter you suggest?<br>

Any other tips or links you can recommend for shooting canyon landscapes would be greatly appreciated!</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Eric</p>

 

<p>Robert:<br>

"Another thing to keep in mind is that disposable lithiums have superb cold temperature performance."<br>

The average temperature at the bottom of the canyon in July is 106-110 degrees F in July, so I think that I will worry about being too cold for another trip... ;-)</p>

<p>parv.<br>

My Panasonic camera uses a removable, rechargable battery that is charged using an adaptor that plugs into an outlet. I am seeking recommendations for a good quality camera that will run on AA or AAA size disposable batteries, since I will have no access to an electrical outlet to recharge the Panasonic batteries for over two weeks.<br>

Eric</p>

<p>This summer I will be spending two weeks rafting the Colorado River. My current camera, a Panasonic, uses rechargeable batteries. They work great, as long as I am near an outlet to recharge. I will take my Panasonic and Rollei on the trip, too, but would like to get another digital.<br>

What camera/s would you recommend that have the following criteria?<br>

1. Battery operated (not rechargeable). This is absolute.<br>

2. A reasonable optical zoom.<br>

3. A reasonable quality – a step above the “party cameras” that my kids have.<br>

4. Smallish size. My bigger cameras and equipment will be packed for the days’ runs in dry bags, so I want a camera that is easy and convenient to use on the river between camps.<br>

5. SD card storage. This is not a deal-breaker, but I already have a bunch of them around.</p>

<p>6. And, of course, I want one what will magically make wonderful images every time I push the button. ;-)<br>

I guess what I am asking for is your recommendations for a good battery camera, and your insights into the sort of compromises that such a camera will present.</p>

<p>Thank you, in advance, for your helpful suggestions.<br>

Happy New Year.<br>

Eric</p>

 

<p>Wow... OK, now I am pretty confused.<br>

I guess I get the part about expectations - that no amount scanning wiz-bang can make a poor negative into something better than it is. Likewise, I understand that for us amateurs, we probably do not need the best, most expensive scanner in the world.<br>

I have two follow-up questions, then.<br>

1. I have a 1950's era Rolleicord V with which I shoot mostly BW (and maybe color sometime, too). I won't be shooting thousands of images, but I want to share the ones that I DO take. So, what <em>reasonable quality</em> scanner do you all recommend for making scans and maybe prints to around 8x10? (Specific brands and models would be helpful).</p>

<p>2. I also have thousands of slides that I would also like to scan and share. Can that be done with the same scanner recommended above, or I am asking about two different scanning demands?</p>

<p>Thanks! Eric</p>

<p>Wow... OK, now I am pretty confused.<br>

I guess I get the part about expectations - that no amount scanning wiz-bang can make a poor negative into something better than it is. Likewise, I understand that for us amateurs, we probably do not need the best, most expensive scanner in the world.<br>

I have two follow-up questions, then.<br>

1. I have a 1950's era Rolleicord V with which I shoot mostly BW (and maybe color sometime, too). I won't be shooting thousands of images, but I want to share the ones that I DO take. So, what <em>reasonable quality</em> scanner do you all recommend for making scans and maybe prints to around 8x10? (Specific brands and models would be helpful).</p>

<p>2. I also have thousands of slides that I would also like to scan and share. Can that be done with the same scanner recommended above, or I am asking about two different scanning demands?</p>

<p>Thanks! Eric</p>

<p>richard oleson:<br>

$50-75: Yashica C or D<br>

$75-100: Yashica Mat<br>

$100-150: Rolleiflex Automat X; Yashica Mat 124<br>

$150-200: Rolleiflex Automat MX and MX-EVS; Yashica Mat 124G<br>

I would REALLY like to know where you are shopping for these cameras. I recently looked for a TLR in good, reasonable operating condition and considered most of the above, and never saw these prices... I think double those prices and you would be in the ball-park. </p>

<p>

<p >One thing I caution you about is shopping for a camera on eBay. There are many fine dealers there, but the bad-apples make it a problematic shopping experience for everyone. I was burned recently on a deal for a Yashica Mat (eventually went to the Resolution Center and got my money back). The camera was not accurately described in the posting or in pre-bid emails -- the first thing I did was shine a light through lens from front to back and saw the taking lens was toast. Shot a roll anyway, and ALL the speeds were way off.</p>

<p >What I learned from the experience (and others):</p>

<p >I suspect that many/most sellers don't have the slightest idea about how to accurately assess the condition of the old camera they are selling. Most focus on cosmetics, and frequently say things like "the shutter sounds right," or "everything works" without having any real clue.</p>

<p >Beware of anyone who uses the term "minty" in a description...</p>

<p >Never, ever, buy a camera from a seller who does not accept returns -- they do not accept returns because they know or suspect that what they are selling is in worse condition than they say it is. Ditto for a minimal three day return. Ask for, and get in writing, (and keep a copy of that correspondence) a return policy that allows you sufficient time to shoot a couple of rolls of NEW film and have them processed -- usually a couple of weeks for a mail-order lab. The return agreement should state that you can return the camera for any reason (offer to pay shipping for the return).</p>

<p >Always use PayPal.</p>

<p >The camera you really, really want will ALWAYS come up for sale again on eBay eventually. Do your research, decide the maximum you will pay, and be patient.</p>

<p >In your mind, add $150 to $200 to your maximum bid price for a CLA of the camera -- in all likelihood, sooner rather than later it will need it, and if it has already been done on the auctioned camera, it will be reflected in the higher minimum bid price and the bidding.</p>

<p >Never buy ANY item on eBay from out of the country.</p>

<p >Do your research on completed auctions for the item you want and, as always, if the deal looks too good, walk away fast.</p>

</p>

<p>Once (if) you get the thing in working order, you can make it shine with new leather!<br>

http://www.cameraleather.com/</p>

<p>"How much is a good price for one of these TLRs?"</p>

<p>I think there is a difference between knowing a "good price" and the "current market price." The best way to get a sense of market prices is go to eBay and look at the "completed auctions" section for a couple of weeks. For better or worse, eBay is a "perfect market" that reflects current prices for auction items, and there is a pretty brisk market there in MF cameras. Once you know the market price, you will have a better sense of a "good price."</p>

<p>Send test rolls to Dwayne's. For important rolls of film, send them elsewhere...</p>

<p>Send test rolls to Dwayne's. For important rolls of film, send them elsewhere...</p>

<p>I recently sent two rolls of Tri X 400, 120 to Dwayne's for processing. Both rolls came back with HUGE, parallel scratches down each side of the entire strip. Entirely ruined both strips. I feared it was something wrong with the transport or pressure plate in my camera. Sent another roll to another processor (North Coast), and no problems. I will never, ever send to Dwayne's again...</p>

<p>Update:<br>

I sent two rolls of Kodak Tri X 400 to Dwayne's recently. Both rolls came back with huge parallel scratches on the negatives, in the same location on both rolls -- totally ruined both rolls. Never again will I use Dwayne's for anything. I initially feared that that the problem was in the transport of the camera, so I sent a roll to North Coast and had great results, no scratches -- so they get my business from now on.</p>

<p>Here is a sample of a test roll of Tri X 400 I shot recently (I was checking out shutter speeds and film transport on, as one website called it, my "German light-tank" of a camera). It is a relatively low-quality scan...</p>

<p>http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/ericmogren/08960008.jpg</p>