federico_caponi

<p>Thanks for these suggestions...I will make my mind soon. Federico</p>

<p>Hello there<br>

I am looking for an affordable printer for home printing small proof pictures, some one page pdfs...sometimes documents.<br>

In short I need suggestions for a simple printer that can also produce nice quality color and black and white prints </p>

<p>thanks!<br>

Federico</p>

<p>Iverson<br>

Requires OSX 10.7 <br>

camera control pro trial version seems working now...</p>

<p>Hello there,<br>

I wonder if there is a way to tethering Nikon D 610 to Mac OSX 10.6.8. via USB cable.<br>

I used Sofortbilt for D300, but it doesn't support D610.<br>

Also Camera Control Pro 2 seems not supported by my Mac.<br>

Any help?<br>

thanks in advance.<br>

federico</p>

<p>Thanks everybody for your kind contributions. Finally wephota replied with this email. I copy and past here:<br>

Hi Frederico Caponi,<br /> <br />development times for wephota sheet film NP 22 (100ASA)at a 20° C developer temperature:<br />ID 11 stock solution 6 – 7 min<br />ID 11 dilution 1+1 8 – 10 min<br />ID 11 dilution 1+3 15 – 16 min<br /> <br />Bet regards<br /> <br />Dieter Grohmann<br /> <br>

So, as you can see in the chart, the general film tollerance should be high. I will do my tests asap.<br>

Federico</p>

<p>Larry...I emailed 4 days ago. No reply jet...</p>

<p>Victor! I believe anyone who has a darkroom (or some dark room at home), has to try it!</p>

<p>Thanks Charles, there's still a lot of confusion about these films...Digitaltruth talks about "discontinued films", but the box I have is brand new, also if is the first time I see a box of films without any date stamped on it!<br>

Then, I have just received an email from Lumiere-Shop in Germany, one of the few dealers that have stocks of these films, that says: take the times of Foma 100.And these times are completely different from those you linked to me. So, online about wephota is a mess...I hope wephota will email me back soon. I will go anyway with my decision to test the developing times, and post results next week.</p>

<p>Thanks Peter, but It seems that ORWO is not the same film than this new wephota...Charles, how did you find it?...I need to test the film anyway, because digitaltruth doesn't convince me...np films, but no wephota mentioned, and orwo was np films too...I wrote also to wophota, no reply jet. The first and only film put in the market with not a simgle clear data sheet...(by the way on the pack there's no expiry date too...the seller told me they are fesh!)</p>

<p>This is the only affordable lf film today in Warsaw! So I purchased it and later discovered that there isn't any cheat sheet or developing chart in the box and neither in internet...can somebody help me. I process usually in batches of 6 films, would be hard for me to test it before this saturday, when I'll have a portrait session...so, any developing chart is more than welcome.<br>

I'd like to develope it with id11 1+3<br>

many thanks<br>

Federico</p>

 

<p>I own a Fuji Gs 645 with rollbar; good portable camera (really small, lighter than fm2 with 35) but not as fast as you could imagine. Speeds and f rings are too close each other, focusing is not as smooth as nikon or leica or else...the small lens has all the 3 controls cohassial to the barrel, so they are jammed and it's hard to adjust them without watching them (...forget to use it in a fast leica or nikon way).<br>

The image quality is good, as has been already said. But I also find the rangefinder spot incredibly dim (mine is ligh yellow...very very light yellow...) and I wonder if any GS user has found a simple way to improve the contrast of the rf spot...any suggestions?</p>

 

<p>Thanks Alan<br>

I will try to soak them in the stop bath and repeat the washing+wetting process. This monday I will "cure"the negs...then I will post the results asap. Thanks to all of you!</p>

<p><em> I am in Warsaw (Poland) at this moment</em> and the only available film cleaner is TETENAL LAVAQUICK...Do you think it worths to try it? thanks</p>

<p>Hi Mike, yes I use distilled water for all the baths, including presoak. Negatives were dried in an home made cabinet that I also use succesfully for 4x5 color slides...it's smthg that never happened before to my negatives and I need to find a way to get rid of these stains. Maybe somebody knows a specific formula for a washing bath who will not be too aggressive to the negs...</p>

<p>Hello there, I have a problem...with 4x5 fp4 negatives. I processed them in a cpa2 rotary processor and had extremely good results as ever BUT:<br /> the water in my darkroom is extremely hard and not as clean as it should be, so I washed them for the last 3 minutes with distilled water, then moved them in another basin and kept them in a solution of 1:400 tetenal wetting agent. When they were dry I found out they were orribly stained and full of spots. I thought it was a mistake in the wetting agent solution so I soaked them again with distilled water and dried them back. Most of the stains went away but the negs are still not as cleas as they should and scanning them reveals an enourmous number of stains. CAN ANYBODY HELP ME? I NEED TO KNOW A GOOD METHOD TO REWASH THEM AND DRY THEM WITH ACCEPTABLE RESULTS.</p><div></div>

<p>Julien, I own and use a lot on field and in studio a Wista 45 RF. The best thing of this camera is absolutely the screen. Also outdoor you will almost never use a cloth to compose or focus. It's an extremely bright and detailed screen, with a Fresnel included. The camera is not light, but front movements are geared and focus too. Really easy to work with this camera. The rangefinder is relialable, once you get used to the set up according one of the 3 positions (for 3 different lenses) as soon as you open the camera. They say it's calibrated on Niwwor W lenses, but I own a 180 Nikkor and a 150 Rodenstock Sironar and rangefinder works well on both. The most complicated part of this camera is about the back; but only when you change to photography on mf film holders. Better to change the back in a quite place, I never dared to do it on the road, sitting in my car, because I find it a bit complicated. The standard 4x5 rotating back is just perfect. I warmly racomend this camera.</p><div></div>

<p>Many thanks Steven! I've many years of bw darkroom behind me...and I've just purchased a jobo cpa2 processor and I want to start working on color darkroom, so please any other advice is most than welcome.</p>

 

<p>Many thanks Steven!</p>

 

<p>Hello, I am looking on Ebay for some of the last boxes of Kodak Ultra or Supra Endura sheet paper. Can anyone translate the surface codes for me? I've found E, F, N surfaces, but not a way to understand the meaning of these codes. Then...for optical prints in color, would you recomend Ultra or Supra? Thanks</p>