teos

A Happy New Year 2019 for all the Photo.net members !!!

My 4 years Samsung S4 is about to die...It shuts down instantly even when 35% battery full without warning. Changed it with a new original one , after some time , the same thing, in fact , worse , shuts down even at 75% when data trafic is on these days...

I am not a mainly smartphone shooter but I admit I”ll need a good camera phone to replace the s4 . Better than the S4 or at least as good . Preferably with good low light capability . And not pricey one Oooops !!!!

My main camera is Oly EM10Mk2 with 25/1.8, 45/1.8 , 15/1.7

What camera(sorry , smartphone ) do you suggest ?

I began my sojourn into mirrorless photography with a NEX 7, which I bought used a few years ago. I'm still using the same camera, and I have been generally pleased with the results I've gotten with it. My plans are to upgrade to a Sony A7 II -- after considerable thought on the matter, I've decided that I don't really need all the extra resolution of the A7R or R II. I have found the NEX 7's 24.3 mp resolution to be plenty. I mean that's 6000 x 4000 pixels ya know. And the A7 II's resolution is the same. I am much more interested in the full frame capabilities of the A7 II and its in-body stabilization. Especially the latter since most of the time when I'm using my NEX 7, I'm shooting with manual focus lenses. This is a big reason why I bought my NEX -- because I have a large selection of MF lenses. And Sony's AF lenses are really expensive, which is a drawback for me. So I'm gonna stay the course and upgrade to the A7 II when finances permit.

Of course , a stabilised FF body with legacy lenses is ideal . But can't afford one , and over that ,I prefer something small+light

Fuji XE2 seems appealing to me second hand . I think I'll get one and a 16-50 II lens . I know that the 18-55 /2,8-4 is more applauded but I need more the 16 mm end .

What I don't know it is if the little Sony a5000 in night mode (3-4 exposures supraposed at 6400 ) is better than the xe2 at 6400

Have you tried them on the Fuji? You need to actually hold them. If in-body stabilization is an absolute requirement, then obviously no Fuji for you. I personally think though you would be cutting off your nose despite your face. Many of these apparently vital specs are actually not such a big deal in practice.

I am just searching in my EXIF datas to see the paramerers used when shooting handheld lowlight ....No , probably the stabilisation especially on wide lenses isn't so critical , but it helps to feel more confortable....

I see that the 18/2 lens isn't too much applauded in tests ,and probably I'd need it the most .And at 2,8 sharpness is clearly better in the 18-55 zoom wich is weird for a prime .

Fuji does not have in-body stabilization, but most of their zoom lenses do, so it should not be a big issue. In my opinion, stabilization is a big plus for lenses FF equivalent about 85mm and up, but below this, much less important. They certainly have the largest number and most rational line of specifically APS-designed lenses of any maker.

Thank you for your answer , Robin ! The zooms are large enough to look and feel unbalanced on the camera , wich applies also to some (not all) of the mft zooms , especially Panasonic I verified on the camerasize.com . And I look for something more compact.That's why I was referring at their primes

I studied a bit the Fuji system and it seems that despite the excellent build ,sensor and controls ,the AF in low light for the Xe1 wouldn't be so great? Or my info is wrong ?

Also , the lack of the stabilisation is not what I am looking for.

The lenses are not too many and they are big enough to bring the package to a volume close to a DSLR. Don't like this .,I look for something more pocketable (or close to )

So , I have the chance to go with the few primes they offer and are moderately fast 18mm f2 and the 23mm f2 maybe the 27mm f2 . But all are unstabilised ....Would they be enough to shoot static subjects in low light (night city scapes , indoor catheedrals......)? Or maybe a stabilised f3,5-4 is better for my shooting style ?

Seems to me the fuji are indeed great cameras , I have a X20and it feels incredible in hand ,excellend experience tp use it ,and performes better than I could believe a compact can do ,especially in low light. The lens /sensor/prcessor system are so well optimised that the f2allows to keep the iso up to 1600 no more . the small sensor allows a good depth of field and prevents unwanted out of focus areas when using mostly f2-2,8

The apsc fujis are a bigger in volume and the zoom lenses seem not so compact than the mft or as I'd want to ,even if I know they are great (the little X20 is my reference) .And seem pricier ...but nothing good is for free ....Maibe I'll look carefully to choose one or two primes if I can afford .

Hello!

I missed from the forum for several years , but not given up photography . I switched from DSRL to mirrorless mainly for reasons of volume and weight . I went in paralel with Sony nex3 + MF legacy lenses and Olympus EP-L1 +kit for AF.

I use also a Sony a5000 +16-50 in the last two years ,wich replaced the Oly in the last two years ,and is really small , light, and good in low light as I like , so not using very much in the last time the MF lenses . I don't like the WB auto from the a5000 and the lack of external classic wheels and buttons . The sensor is fine , i shoot frequently indoors in low light handheld ,so the 16mm is a fine focal to have .Anyway , the Sony lens lineup is not very promising for me .The faster and better lenses are rather pricey , and not what I'd like.,some of them not stabilised ( sigma19/2,8)

I noticed the evolution of the mft sensors and the design of the OM-D 10 mk2 Olys ,wich is closer to what I'd like ,but I don't know how fast they are .The lenses seem promising , fast and smaller (thinking of the Pana 15/1,7) . Not convinced though it wouldn't be somehow a side step ???

<p>Well , I am a bit in the middle of the road and I know I should make a decision .I began serious digitals with EOS XTi ,then jumped to nex3 and a lot of manual primes that I still like to use and then drifted towards MFT with Oly EP-L1 for a small af to take everywhere.<br>

Now I feel I am leaning to Oly too , the Sony lenses seem to me too big and pricey ,Canon still big and lacking equal value in low light . I am shooting mainly static subjects , so super fast af is not a huge concern ;but I don't mind fast precise af if possible...<br>

I saw some fast primes that I should choose from ...maybe first move could be a 15/1,7 or 17/1,8 as standard lens on my old epl1 . It's acceptable up to 1000-1250 iso ,and it should be some improvement over the kit 14/3,5 lens at the wide end of about two stops , if I am not wrong . This could help me to shoot at lower iso , let's say 800 allowing cleaner images (even I don't dislike a bit of grain in the pics , I'm still shooting film ) .<br>

Or should I better go to a new body ,omd e5 or ep-m2 or ep-l6 and stay with the kit ...I'd like both solutions but can't afford...Another thing is that if I am going to all mft solution , the tele should benefit better from an wiewfinder , so , E5 ...but that prism deny the small factor , it's just a bit smaller dslr like camera , not so pocketable sometimes when I want to go without even a small camera bag...</p>

<p>Thank you , Glenn , very useful your feedback. <br>

I imagined so , but hadn't the confirmation and didn't wanted to get it on my money ...For some reason , I don't feel like I want to correct that distortion , I'd prefere not having it. In fact , I have to choose between<br>

-upgrading my Oly EP-L1 to a 16mp body with their much better high iso performance ,keeping the 14-42/3,5-5,6<br>

-getting a kit lens for the Nex3 (18-55oss or 16-50 oss but I read that also teh stabilisation doesn' work ?)<br>

-upgrading my Oly EP-L1 to a 16mp body with their much better high iso performance AND getting a fast lens (preferably the 17/1,8 ) - this means a bit too much for my pocket<br>

-getting a newer nex with the 16-50 corrected in camera also a costly choice wich let my oly kit without a job<br>

-getting only a fast lens for the EP-L1 for the beginning , hoping that this could give better results in low light than now . I am curious if the Sigma 19/2.8 is enough improvement over the kit lens to justify the compromise in the wide or the Pana 14/2.5 could be better for this job.Or if I should stretch to a 17/1.8 to get real improvement.</p>

<p>I have the Nex 3 ( yes, the old nex 3 ) that I used all these years as a platform for manual focus lenses . Anyway , now I want an autofocus solution ,and I wonder if this leans (the 16-50oss kit lens ) can work coorrectly on this body , knowing that the lens needs the in camera distorsions correction activated(I don't know if my camera has this feature , it was designed to work with the old kit lens.<br>

Did somebody tried this combo , or knows the answer?</p>

<p>What to choose ? Wich one give best IQ ? I am pretty happy with my ep-l1 + 14-42 , just have a nex 3 and need autofocus .Thinking to get a 16-50 ( or 18-55 oss ) for it or for anothe r 16 or 20 mp nex , or keeping the 14-42 and get anew body from oly (om-d m5 or ep-l6)....<br>

What do you think ? I am leaning towards the olympus solution but maybe I am wrong ? should I get a Sony a5000 with kit lens instead ? does it give better image ? I am interessed in low light quality</p>

Hello . I am currently using mainly manual focus lenses on Nex 3. For AF I have a epl-1 only , which struggles a little in

low light . I'd like a stabilised body from Sony to go for AF with some fast Sony /Minolta primes (plastic fantastic 35/1.8

, 50/1.8 ,etc) , but I'm not where about the performance of the body A 58 , A55 ,A 37 ? Vs the Nex 3/5 ? The E mount lenses stabilised from Sony are too pricey or not so good . The oly/pana fast primes are also not cheap ,so , I was thinking about the alpha mount system.

What do you think about ?

<p>I scanned the first APS (developed at local lab after opening the cassette-they don't have the special device ) on my Minolta Dimage III . Worked out .The film was expired from 2006 , wasn't stored in special conditions , the lighting wasn't the best. The Tiff files were scary grainy . The dust or spots after developing can be also bigger problem than in 35mm (bigger relative dimensions) especially with a PIA ICE2-less scanner .<br>

But I've seen some good files from APS (not many), so it can be done in some acceptable degree to be close to 35 .This is one crisp enough from flikr :

<p>I just found a Topcon R III at a good price + 58/1.8 .I shoot film and digital ,using manual lenses mainly. I don't collect cameras for keeping on a shelf , I shoot with them . Is it a good camera to use from time to time ? Wearing spectacles , I am a bit concerned about the accuracy of focusing . Does it has any focusing aids , or it's just a matte screen ? Not very much info like that on the net , mostly on the Re/Rd .</p>

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<p>In conclusion, EOS + 2.3x flipping viewfinder magnifier ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110394177757?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 ) may be the best option (there are adapters for Nikon , OM, M42, C/Y , PK , Rollei QBM ,Leica R, Exakta Topcon at cheap prices - 15-20 E)<br>

You'll be able to fit the biggest variety of lenses from different manufacturers . In my opinion it's the best solution , apart from the mirrorless bodies ,but you asked for film body.</p>

<p>Christos , I mainly use manual focus lenses on digital bodies .Recently ,on NEX 3 .I've used M42 and Yashica ML on EOS XTi (400D) using AF(chipped) confirm adapters . Mixed results . The metering tends to give not the best results when using wide angle 20mm(overexposes;needs -1 compensation at least and stopping down the lens) . When stopping down the lens to f8-11 it's possible that the shutter doesn't fire if selected the one shoot AF and focusing is not achieved.(EOS XTi). I don't advise you to use EOS 300 , because it has not leds on the focusing points ,so you can't see the active focusing point in dim light . But you can use the EOS 50e as I do .Wery good camera, focusing points with lighting leds. I've used it with Flektogon 20/2,8 : <br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11452260&size=lg<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11454058<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11452262<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11452257<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11452258<br>

Flektogon on Minolta X700 :<br>

http://forum.mflenses.com/flek-20-t53947.html<br>

Yashica ML 28mm on EOS XTi :<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/16496650&size=lg<br>

http://forum.mflenses.com/yashica-ml-28mm-2-8-t39859,highlight,%2Byashica+%2Bml+%2B28mm.html</p>

<p>I intend to use also on EOS IX .But I suggest you to buy a 2.3x viewfinder magnifier for fine tuning the focus , because the chipped adapters with focus confirmation are not accurate enough. I use M42 lenses on Minolta X700 with excellent results ,spot on focus and perfect light metering . A split focusing screen is better than the AF screens wich are not designed to help you to manual focus. Of course , a lower register camera would be better , allowing the use of diferent mounts<strong> if</strong> there are adapters . FD T70 is an excellent motorised camera . Konica AR has also shorter register distance than EOS. Adapters :<br>

http://www.buhla.de/Foto/Konica/Zubehoer/eAdapter.html <br>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Nikon-F-Lens-Canon-FD-Mount-Adapter-/280551763978<br>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adapter-Praktica-m42-lens-to-Camera-Konica-AR-/251158382247?pt=US_Vintage_Cameras&hash=item3a7a34c6a7<br>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KONICA-ADAPTER-TO-USE-NIKON-SLR-LENSES-96170-/140875131843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cccfebc3<br>

Of course, if you can access a specialist who can manufacture adapters , these can be done ,according to the list in the link provided by JDM</p>

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<p>Fine shots from a city that I love very much too ! The second one is in the Staromestska Namesti , the Old Town (Stare Mesto) Square . The Church of Our Lady before Tyn is one of the most beautiful buildings in Prague and an icon of this city .<br>

All in all fine series , thanks for sharing !<br>

What scanner did you used ?</p>