roy_ramavarapu1

<p>Very sad to read this. A true gentleman - vast patience even for strangers like me with trivial questions. I emailed Tom on his Leica soft release buttons (softies), and he and Tuulikki Abrahamsson (wife) guided me in their email reply - they even wrote me after several days to confirm if I received the items that I purchased. More than this, I never missed reading his comments on the different websites on Leica - Tom wrote from experience with the other user (like me) in mind. Tom Abrahamsson will be missed by the Leica users.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 08 Jan 2017</p>

<p>I have several older Nikon camera bodies, and needed to change the base plate on one body with same in much better condition from a donor body. I searched the different website locations for simple repair tools. Based on my actual experience, I looked for JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) tools. I found the JIS type Philips format screwdrivers made by Moody (from USA). I also found many sellers on the auction site selling camera repair tools (spanner wrenches, compass type, etc.). I purchased some tools from Japan Hobby Tool, received them (very fast shipping directly from Japan), and was "blown" away by the quality and precision of the tools that I purchased and received. The tools are made of stainless steel or steel, and the bits are extremely strong, and of high quality. I used their tools to replace the base plate, and they did the job perfectly. I now plan to purchase the complete set of JIS screwdrivers and spare bits from Japan Hobby Tool, and am waiting for them to assemble this kit. They wrote me that they plan to put this complete set on the auction site. The repair tools that I purchased and received were Made In Japan; one tool was made in Germany. I believe that all their tools are made in Japan only.<br>

Japan Hobby Tool replied promptly to all my emails in English, and have excellent communications. They also gave me their catalog (in Japanese), and I can use the photos in the catalog to purchase items I need. Most of their catalog items are listed on the auction website. <br>

I am in no way connected with Japan Hobby Tool and do not own or sell any of their tools/items. I am posting this to inform fellow members about a very good place on the auction site to purchase high quality repair tools based on my personal experience. They also sell lubricants, grease, and lens repair items; I have no experience with any lens repairs, and consider it beyond my skill level.<br>

I hope this helps - I looked at different places to purchase camera repair tools, and am more than impressed with Japan Hobby Tools and their service.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 18 April 2015</p>

 

<h1 ><em>non-AI Nikkor-P 180mm/f2.8 conversion to AI with Nikon factory ring</em></h1>

<p>posted on 17 Oct 2013<br>

This posting may have relevant information/experience that I documented in a similar situation: I was dismantling this lens only for AI conversion, and started out with the wrong set of tools. The Japanese camera equipment need JIS (Japan Industrial Standard, I think) type Philips screwdrivers. Regular Philips screwdrivers will ruin the screws; using acetone is ok but use a Q-tip (touch only) and don't let the acetone seep into the lens. Hope this posting helps. I FINALLY completed my task of AI conversion.</p>

<p>Thank you all for all the information. Very much appreciated, and I think others who do a Google search on VIOOH will find this information helpful.</p>

<p>Hi Mukul:<br>

Thank you for the information. Based on what you wrote, would it be correct to assume that the VIOOH (and TUVOO) would be redundant/not required on the later M cameras, e.g., like the M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, M6TTL, and higher. Just for info, the well-known site suggests that VIOOH be used with the Noctilux + hood because the combination blocks the built-in camera viewfinder. I must state that the author of this well-known site does not mention the camera; I think the Noctilux does not mount on the IIIf and earlier Leicas. </p>

<p>Please note this correction: The first sentence in the third paragraph, "Please note that there are already threads in this forum about use/handling this finder" should read as "forum about handling this finder". Thanks to all.</p>

<p>I did a search on the subject, went through the search findings, but am unable to find an answer to my question (please see subject line). Will the experts/actual users of this item give the SIMPLE answer, please. This finder is described in a well-known site (Google search), and there are numerous listings on the big auction site (most listings describe the condition as hazy, etc.). From what I can understand, this finder is recommended when using a lens (alone), or lens + shade, and the viewfinder is partially blocked by the size of the lens, or the lens + shade. Is this correct? I would assume that this finder can be used even if there is no blockage. Is this also correct? <br>

Please also give any actual experience with this finder VIOOH. Please add any actual experience with a companion attachment TUVOO for 2.8cm lens to this finder VIOOH. Is it worth buying VIOOH and using it. I assume one would also buy TUVOO if the 2.8cm lens is used.<br>

Please note that there are already threads in this forum about use/handling this finder, making corrections for parallax, different versions (lyre shaped, straight sides) of this finder - even a New York version given the name IMARECT, etc. <br>

Thank you all very much, and best regards.</p>

<p>A good and trusted place to look for Rolleiflex 2.8F, or 2.8E (or the 3.5 models) is KEH. I purchased several items including a Rolleiflex 2.8F and can write that their grading system is a benchmark; their prices are also comparable, and KEH has a return policy. E-bay is another place for bidding / buying, and there are some risks, e.g., the seller may not know the quality/condition of the item, and the grading system varies. My preference is KEH, and have no reservations in recommending KEH. I cannot write about selling gear to KEH as I have not sold any item to KEH.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 21 Oct 2014 </p>

<p>I have purchased several used items from KEH. I can write from my purchase experiences that their ratings for mechanical and cosmetics is a benchmark, very conservative, and trustworthy. I have had no complaints with the items that I purchased from KEH.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 11 Oct 2014</p>

<p>Thank you all for contributing your knowledge on this camera.<br>

I don't think I can post some of this information for the article in The Hindu as it is archived by now. I will try to send an email to the editor. <br>

Thank you, and my best regards to all of you.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 21 Aug 2014</p>

<p>I read The Hindu (newspaper, from India) on a regular basis, and came across this interesting article in the 19 Aug 2014 issue. This newspaper is on-line, free, and can be accessed from any web browser. The subject article has the following link:<br>

http://www.thehindu.com/news/national/other-states/a-maharaja-among-cameras/article6332534.ece?homepage=true#comments<br>

Based on the description in the article, the camera is German made, has everything included (darkroom, fixer, developer and film box is all inside the camera). The photo in the article shows the camera on a tripod.<br>

Would somebody be able to recognize this camera, and write more about it.<br>

Best regards.</p>

<p>Thanks to Michael Darnton for the excellent link to the subject, and to Stephen Lewis for the alternate covering items. Please note that I mentioned ArmorAll but did NOT use it or recommend it for a Leica M#; I have used ArmorAll on automobile interiors (the surfaces stay somewhat oily for some time even after wiping off).<br>

Thank you all, and best regards.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 16 July 2014</p>

<h1 > </h1>

<p>I came across a Leica M# on the well known auction site, and the seller had a note in the description that it is advisable to wipe down the vulcanite covering once a year, and Neatsfoot oil or Lexol were mentioned. I did a search on this site with Lexol and Leica vulcanite and found one item titled "Leica Detailing products, dated 17 Sep 2009, 07:23. Not much information on the subject products.<br>

I would like to ask Leica M# users if this wipe down with the mentioned products is helpful, and if users have used the mentioned products. Is there something better than the mentioned products? Reminds me of ArmorAll used on auto interiors; there are claims that ArmorAll (or an equivalent product) releases the dust from the surfaces, and enables the material to "breathe", and stay intact for a longer time (prevents embrittlement). I think sunlight/UV component is the main reason why such material like vinyl, auto interiors, and possibly vulcanite becomes brittle over time.<br>

Thank you all for your information, and best regards.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 16 July 2014</p>

<p> </p>

<p>This is an update on KEH, and is based on personal experience. This update has NOTHING to do with KEH products, service, staff, pricing, grading, you name it - EXCEPT their shipping carrier FedEx. After my personal experience with FedEx, I am so full of loathing for this carrier FedEx, I would like to warn/inform KEH customers. I believe KEH uses FedEx - at least, I got FedEx as the carrier after I completed making my payment to KEH for my item. KEH sent me the FedEx tracking number, and it was to be delivered when nobody would be at my residence - I work 50 miles away, and use a van pool. I called FedEx, talked to a live person and explained: I was assured that the delivery person would not leave it at the door, and would deliver it the next day when somebody would be at home. Later, the tracking showed that the item was delivered, and left at the side door. Anybody could steal it and drive away. I was helpless. I called FedEx - they made the usual noises. Fortunately, the package was recovered after 5PM, and I am so relieved. I wrote KEH about this experience, and am waiting for their response. If I purchase from KEH, I will want another shipper (USPS), or I will shop elsewhere. Don't like it?? Shop elsewhere. KEH is not being served properly by FedEx, and customers have to be aware of this. Your purchases can be left outside, and stolen. There are folks who roam the streets looking for exactly such items, and follow FedEx trucks making house deliveries. The FedEx driver who makes the delivery is the loathsome creature who puts the KEH customer at risk. </p>

<p>I have purchased from KEH; never sold anything to KEH. Without hesitation and/or reservations, I would prefer KEH over eBay. The KEH price is comparable, and their grading is a benchmark for used equipment - very conservative. Some of the items I purchased were graded at EX (mechanically and cosmetically); when I received the item, I would think it is LN (Like New). I have not had a negative experience with KEH. The grading on eBay is very subjective, and often made by the seller. I must also add that eBay would have a vast range of equipment relative to KEH, and KEH would not have every item in their stock. Their staff is also excellent.</p>

<p>Thank you very much for the superb and quantitative answers to my question(s). I will measure the amount of water as described (I have to use empty reels as I have only two sacrificial rolls of 36 exp film to practice with), and will note the data on each tank - I stick masking tape to the tanks, and write on them. I find this writing is necessary because the same kind of tanks/same manufacturer have slightly different sizes - this was pointed out in one of the threads in this forum.<br>

Also, I think the 120mm reel would need to be held in place in the tank with something stainless steel (plastic (Lego blocks??) may react with the chemicals) so that it won't move (actually slide up and down and possibly dislodge the film) during inversion/agitation. Thank you all again very much.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 11 Jan 2014</p>

<p>I am new to B&W film developing by myself/at home, and am getting started; please be patient with my questions. I have not developed any yet. I must write that this forum is an awesome resource for all kinds of information for the novice to the advanced levels, and I thank everybody who contribute their experiences.<br>

I will appreciate quantitative information for my question, please. I have a developing tank and insert two 35mm reels. I notice that the inserted reels leave a height of 0.9mm of free space to the brim/edge of the tank; the 0.9mm is measured from the spiral surface; this height is 0.5mm if measured from the rib on the spiral. All these heights are without the lid & cap placed. To complete the information on the heights, the height of this tank from the inside bottom to the brim/edge is 86mm (=8.6cm). I would think that the 0.9mm height is more important to consider as the film (wound into the spiral) ends at this height. I must also take into consideration that the developing liquids in this free space will be compressed when the tank cap lid is placed - some of the developing liquids could enter (due to the lid compression) any available free space in the tank lid baffle regions, and may even flow out the pour spout (this is covered with the cap). <br>

A related question: should there be free volume (empty space) inside the tank (with the lid and cap placed) to allow the developing liquid to move around when the tank is inverted. I also realize that any free volume at the top of the reels will be transferred to the bottom of the tank when the tank is inverted. Is this free volume and movement of the developing liquids required/a good practice, OR, should there be no free volume, no movement of the developing liquids, and the films stay 100% immersed ALL the time. [The feature of free volume would be resolved if only one reel has film, and the second reel is blank - that is, develop one reel only in the tank - this would be wasting chemistry, I think. However, the feature of fluid movement still remains].<br>

The same questions as above but this is for the case of the tank with one single reel only. With the reel inserted, the height from the spiral surface to the brim/edge of the tank (without the lid & cap placed) is 10.0 mm (= 1.0 cm). The same height but from the rib is 0.7mm. The height of this tank from the inside bottom to the brim/edge is 49mm (=4.9cm). The tanks and reels are same respective manufacturers. <br>

The same question also please for the case of 120mm film spiral. The tank I have has one 120mm spiral, and the free height to the brim/edge (without lid & cap placed) is now 16mm (=1.6cm) from the spiral surface; this height is 14mm (=1.4cm) from the rib. The tank height from the inside bottom to the brim edge is 81mm (=8.1cm) without the lid & cap placed. Please note that there is a lot more free volume in this case, and is the source of my questions: how much liquid to fill, and should there be movement of liquid inside the tank OR 100% immersion all the time. PN: this 120mm tank and reel are also same respective manufacturers as above.<br>

Thank you all very much, and your information will be deeply appreciated.<br>

Best regards to all.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 11 Jan 2014</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Rodeo Joe: So sorry for your loss; the photos are a tribute. <br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 08 Jan 2014</p>

<p>Mukul and everybody: It is a pleasure to see all the photos. Would like to add my few cents on the details about spoons and tea/coffee. I have seen spoons used with tea. I and my friends - in my student days, would buy "1 by 2" or "2 by 3" teas. If there were two of us, we would buy the "1 by 2" where one glass of tea is divided into two - actually each would get more than half a glass, and we'd pay for one glass of tea; the "2 by 3" goes along similar lines (for three persons, pay for two glasses. The tea was not poured or "stretched" as Mukul describes, in the tea shops that I would visit. But coffee - yes, it would stretched, actually agitated like in the photo, and in some quality coffee shops the aroma of stretched freshly brewed coffee would be an experience. These were called "meter coffee" (1 meter of stretching) - takes some practice and requires skills. The meter coffees didn't use spoons - no need. Best regards. <br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 07 Jan 2014</p>

<p>I searched for applicable information on the subject, but was unable to find information.<br>

I notice that the expiry date is printed on the (thin) cardboard box (carton) containing the film roll, but the expiry date information is not printed on the actual (metal) casing of the film roll. Is this always the case?? <br>

I bought a box of 10 expired film rolls; three of them were in their cardboard boxes, and each box has one film roll in a plastic container with a cap; the rest came only in their plastic (with a cap) containers. I can read the expiry dates on the cardboard boxes, but none (=10) of the film rolls have any expiry date information. Is there a way to determine (the expiry date) by looking at the print information on the film roll (metal) casing?? (I am not sure if the bar code on the film roll (metal) casing would have expiry date; however, I don't know how to read the bar code).<br>

Thank you all for any information on this subject.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 04 Jan 2014</p>

<p>Hi Dan:<br>

I saw that link and contents previously; has notes on the AIS and DC versions, none on the non-AI version. Many thanks.<br>

Roy, 29 Dec 2013</p>

<p>I looked around in the archives for the subject lens, and find a lot of information on the same lens but apply to the AI, AI-S, and the more recent AutoFocus DC (DeFocus Control) version; there is also a lot more information on the F2.8 and F3.5 versions of this lens. The excellent <em>www.mir.com.my</em> site has a one sentence description, and I quote: "This remarkable Nikkor 135mm f/2.0 telephoto lens was first being introduced in December, 1975 as a Non-Ai Nikkor lens."<br>

Would anybody have more information on this non-AI version, and where would this non-AI version be available for purchase. The associated AI conversion ring for this lens (I purchased one set) is currently available on the big auction site. I looked at most places (most auction sites, KEH, other websites/dealers for this non-AI version, but cannot find any - it is as if this version did not exist. I presume only a few were made in the non-AI version. <br /><br>

There are also excellent reviews of the AI & AI-S and the AutoFocus DC versions. Apart from these reviews, would any user have a more personal opinion as to whether the DC version is better than the AI & AI-S version(s)?? The DC version costs almost twice the AI & AI-S version(s). <br>

(Along the same lines, I came across the Zeiss Apo Sonnar T* 135mm F2 manual focus telephoto lens that costs twice as much as the Nikon/Nikkor DC version. Interesting price range for the same lens).<br /><br>

Best regards to everybody, and wishing you all a Happy New Year 2014.<br /><br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 28 Dec 2014<br /><br>

</p>

<p>A FINAL, FINAL update:<br>

I have successfully converted my Nikkor-P 180mm/f2.8 non-AI lens to AI. And what an experience. <br>

First: if you do NOT have the JIS type screwdrivers (they look like Philips type), do NOT attempt to unscrew the screws. I tore up the heads of three screws on the mount flange, and NOTHING would work to remove them. Did an exhaustive search on the Internet: came across many, many suggestions; they range from the truly helpful to bizarre, odd, downright nonsensical, and misleading suggestions. I am writing below what I did, and used the truly helpful suggestions, and I thank those authors. Do not use reverse drills/screw extractors - I didn't - they won't fit the tiny screws, and may cause more damage. Next, my screws were chewed up (the original slots were a neat crater on each screw head) - and I had replacement screws - no need to salvage the original screws. Do not use alcohol and/or acetone, or WD-40 - they will trickle down under the screw and spread internally. I took a flat (blade type, the larger size) jeweler's screwdriver, and filed the blade to a knife edge; I also filed on the blade sides to reduce the span over the screw head. After this filing, the flat blade would sit across the crater in the screw head. I took a plastic coat hanger (the cheap, flat, plastic type from any garment shop), and removed the metal (an Aluminum alloy) hook - the tip of the hooked part had a small bulb type of ending (as a safety measure) - this bulb was the exact size of the entire screw head. Take the trouble to cover the rear lens opening with a thick cardboard, and tape the cardboard securely - will prevent any damage to the rear lens; of course, I had access to each of the screw I needed to work on. For some extra protection for my hand, i used some rubber bands to secure a pad of cloth over the jeweler's screwdriver to exert firm downward pressure over the chewed up screw. Keep everything close by for easy access. I worked close to the kitchen gas stove, and heated the small bulb end of the coat hanger hook (held with a pliers) to RED HEAT. While still red hot, I CAREFULLY transferred the bulb end (of the hook part) directly over the chewed up screw head - take care not to touch any other part of the lens - the non-AI ring is plastic (I think) - and transferred the heat to the chewed up screw head. I maintained the contact for about 30-40 seconds. Then, set aside the still hot coat hanger hook carefully (have a plate ready for this). I then took the jeweler's flat screwdriver, bore down firmly and straight with some strength, and gave one short twist (like a burst) in the anti-clockwise direction to unscrew - this was a truly helpful suggestion from a contributor on the Internet. The short burst helps instead of trying to unscrew. The knife like edge of the flat screw will dig into the soft screw head, and the short burst torque will cause a wedge to be formed - note this wedge for the next repeat attempt. File the flat edge of the screwdriver again a little to restore the knife edge. Repeat this process - RED HOT contact heat transfer, and a short burst anti-clockwise torque - place the flat edge almost exactly over the wedge formed in the first attempt. Did this three times - after the third time, I noticed that the screw had broken loose and had turned!! Once free, the screw just came out with the knife edge jeweler's screwdriver. I noticed some powder stuff in the screw hole after removing the screw - must be the glue used at time of original installation. Blew it off, and cleaned with a toothbrush. Did the same with the remaining two other totally chewed up screws - they all came out after the third or fourth attempt.<br>

When I removed the as-found, original non-AI ring (it has to jiggled out gently - DO NOT PULL/DO NOT PUSH/DO NOT USE FORCE), I noticed that there was a film of liquid on the interior. Earlier, I had used a tiny, tiny amount of acetone, and it had trickled down - it does not evaporate quickly due to the lack of contact with air in the confined space, and may trickle/spread further. I cleaned/dried every interior surface, and mounted the new AI ring. Again, it has to be jiggled gently (I am not sure, but I used a flat prong on the lens side as a guide that was now exposed after removing the non-AI ring), but after some very gentle jiggling of the new AI ring, everything fell just precisely into place. I put back the rear flange (it fits exactly with the AI ring in place), and used the replacement screws (I rubbed a tiny layer of petroleum jelly over each screw) to fix the rear flange - I used the #00 JIS screwdriver - it was such a pleasant experience to tighten them - the JIS fits exactly - do not over-torque. Next, I replaced the AI ring rabbit ears (I got the AI kit with a set of rabbit ears) - the tiny, tiny screws on the rabbit ears fitted exactly with the #000 JIS screwdriver. I was done.<br>

Note: I purchased my AI kit from David Ilott, at Aztech Services in UK, (aztech.services@btopenworld.com) (seller name: djsbazaar on the big auction site); and my JIS screwdrivers (sizes #000, 00, 0, and 1) from www.stanleysupplyservices.com who are authorized Moody retailers; Moody does not sell directly to customers.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 27 Nov 2013<br /></p>

<p>I will not identify the item, but could somebody (either from experience or knowledge) write why a Rolleiflex 2.8F does not sell on the auction bay despite repeated listings - the item has been listed repeatedly, seems to be in good condition from the description and attached photos, but does not get any bids. I personally would not bid simply because I already own two 2.8F, and that is more than what I can afford/have/use. I saw a similar item quite some time back that was experiencing the same pattern, but finally was sold. Maybe this item will share the same experience, and hopefully will be sold as I wish only good for the seller and buyer. Sometimes, there is a good reason for not being sold: damage, odd description, blurred photos provided (watch out for this: the blur is used to hide damage), anything that doesn't feel right. But, I don't see any such negative qualities on this particular item - it just runs out of time, and is re-listed - again, and again.<br>

My best regards to everybody.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 21 Nov 2013 </p>

<p>This is a final update:<br>

Nikon sent me 5 (five) rear mount flange screws as a one-time (only) courtesy. I think a senior staff member saw my request, understood that AI conversions "repair" is not done anymore, and wrote me that he would send me the five screws. I thanked Nikon and this person for this courtesy. I really don't think they will repeat this anymore. I am glad that I obtained these screws - they are difficult to obtain, and have to obtain them from another lens (in parts or repair condition.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 08 Nov 2013</p>