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goldbergbarry

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Posts posted by goldbergbarry

  1. <p>From what you described, it is different than wedding photogs work as ownership will typically stay with the photog, and not the B&G. </p>

    <p>I would approach it differently - how much is your time worth? Or maybe give it to the B&G as your wedding gift?</p>

    <p>With ownership, I recommend that you retain ownership but give them full rights as well. </p>

  2. <blockquote>

    <p>If the D3100 is all the budget can stand, you can certainly learn to use it and get good pictures out of it. But in an ideal world I would prefer one of the professional level bodies, even a used one, because of the better weather sealing, and also faster lenses.<br /><br />I used to shoot a lot of fires and accidents in my early newspaper photographer days, and a camera used at a fire scene is going to get wet -- not necessarily drenched but it's a wet environment. Short of a professional level camera, however, there are several companies that make what amount to raincoats for cameras -- heavy gauge clear plastic bags with an opening for the lense and viewfinder and room to get your hands underneath.<br /><br />Faster lenses -- my daily lenses are a 2.8 24-70 and a 2.8 70-200 -- would help because you're going to be shooting a lot at night. You can get by with the "kit" lens but a fast lens will give you for better autofocus in low light, let you shoot in lower light without flash, and give you longer range from your flash when you do use flash.<br /><br />You should try to get a shoemount flash -- the built in flash simply doesn't have enough power for anything beyond a few feet.<br /><br />If I were you I would go make friends with a photographer or two at the local newspaper. See what they're using, get their advice on how to shoot pictures at a fire, get their input on what to buy before you spend any money.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>You're talking thousands of dollars and a significant learning curve. </p>

     

  3. <p>Have you considered upgrading your lenses instead? For example the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 is an amazing lens and will do well on a D3200. It may be above your budget but is something to consider.</p>

    <p>One thing to consider is that lens hold their value over time while bodies depreciate quickly. </p>

    <p>You may also consider picking up a good flash and/or a good tripod. They will help in low light situations. </p>

  4. <p>Welcome to PN! Glad that you are here. With all due respect, I think you are asking the wrong question. You need to ask yourself if you really want a DSLR or a point and shoot (P&S) camera. Learning how to take pictures with any DSLR is a wonderful and amazing experience however it does require a bit of a time and financial investment to learn how to take pictures. If you are not ready to commit to the time required, then I would stick with a point and shoot. Otherwise you will find yourself very frustrated when the pictures are not as good as you envisioned.</p>

    <p>There are some very good P&S cameras. I'll let others respond with their recommendations as I'm not up to the very latest P&S models.</p>

  5. <blockquote>

    <p>+1 - learned that the expensive way when I realized that on DX the 17-55 did not nearly get the amount of use I had expected it would when I purchased it</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p> <br>

    I have the 17-55 f/2.8 on a DX (D7100) and love it as well. I guess this proves that everyone has different needs.</p>

  6. <p>With all respect and honesty, I sincerely wonder if there is a market for this. I just cannot many people needing the services of a therapeutic photographer.</p>

    <p>There are tons of concerns, from HIPAA to insurance companies to the FDA. For example, you cannot make any claims that therapeutic photography does anything to improve any conditions without the FDA's approval, which would take years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to do. I don't mean to shoot down your dream but I would recommend that you keep looking for other ideas.</p>

  7. <p>I shoot Nikon so I cannot comment on the models. It would help to know are you shooting from the sidelines or the stands, and is this for daytime or night use, or both. </p>

    <p>Based on the little you've told us, the 70-200 + 1.4x gives you the most flexibility both in terms of range and light. The 300 has a nice reach but if this is your only high quality lens, it may be too limiting for your needs. </p>

    <p>Also make sure that you use a monopod as that will give you an extra f/stop. You can pick up a half-decent monopod and head for about $100. </p>

  8. <p>IMO, sounds like legitimate reasons for delaying. As long as there are no cost impacts to you, why make a big thing out of this. On the other hand if you held these dates and lost other business because of it, I may be more upset. But even then, I would look at the contract that she signed. If your contract doesn't cover cases like this, then you need to accept it. In the end, it all goes back to your contract with her. </p>
  9. <p>For the links you shared, the D7100 combined with the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 would be perfect for you. This is an amazing lens - one of the best ones out there for DX cameras. Not cheap as the D7100 body will cost you $1,200 and the lens is about $1,400. </p>

    <p>Think also about investing in a high quality tripod and head, which will cost you $500 - $1,000. Don't even think about a cheap tripod as they are a waste of money.</p>

     

  10. <p>I would buy the lens first. Buy the best lens that you can afford. Consider that a good lens will hold its value, meaning you can always resell it later for practically what you paid for it. Meanwhile a camera body will quickly devalue over 3-4 years. </p>

    <p>Also consider using a monopod. You can gain up to an f/stop by doing so. A half-decent monopod will only cost about $100.</p>

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