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mark_farrell

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Posts posted by mark_farrell

  1. <p>I'm trying to find a rubber eyecup for an old style RB67 prism finder. I've found one for what appears to be the newer style prism finders and is rectangular in shape. Pictures I've found for the old style, show they are round where the eye would rest, although where it attaches to the eyepiece is rectangular, so I'm not sure if the ones that are available would fit or not.</p>

    <h1></h1>

  2. <p>Digital images seem to be the current flavor for most work being done today, but I know personally of a few holdouts that still use "old fashioned" film for weddings and portraits by their own preference based on "the look" and their own particular workflow. What I don't have a good feel for is if it is being used by preference or at a clients request in other markets such as advertising/commercial or other types of media uses.<br>

    Where there is a broad spectrum of photographers in this forum, I thought it would be interesting if you're still using film in anyway to produce an income from its use, "what kind of market is it being used for and is it by your own preference or at the request of a client".</p>

    <p>This question comes about from a discussion in another forum regarding the worth of a photography school still teaching the craft of film in part of the curriculum versus eliminating it altogether and teaching only digital. My gut feeling is that teaching something about film still does have some value in some markets even though it has diminished significantly.</p>

  3. <p>About a year ago I purchased a Pro TL kit from a Craigslist seller. Below is what I got for $250(US). The kit had been owned by a photography student and she no longer needed it. I felt this was a particularly good find and lucky to have found it. KEH.com is a good recommendation for used gear and I have bought from them in the past.</p>

    <p>As far as testing the camera, start with a fresh battery and download the manual linked below. The manual will give a good idea of what the controls do. I don't off hand remember what needs to be set to operate the camera without a roll of film loaded, but the shutter/mirror operation can be checked without film. Try this at different shutter speeds.<br>

    http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645_pro_tl/mamiya_645_pro_tl.htm</p>

    <p>Mamiya ProTL w/Power Winder<br>

    80mm f/2.8 (not the leaf shutter)<br>

    45mm f/2.8<br>

    120mm f/4 Macro<br>

    (2) 120 Backs w/ Inserts<br>

    (2) Cable release adapters<br>

    Camera manual</p>

  4. <p>Jay,<br>

    As you appear new to Hasselblad, while you are reading the manual, pay particular attention to removal and remounting of lenses. Both the lens and the body need to be cocked to remove and mount. Failure to do this correctly could possibly lead up to a lens that's stuck on the body. If it gets stuck it is usually easily fixable, but easier to avoid in the first place.</p>

  5. <p>I found a few Google hits on how to remove the lens with the paperclip trick, but I assume you've seen those. If it's any help here's a link to download the service manual for an RB67. The diagrams in it may help with where to aim the paperclip. You'll need a Google account to sign in to get the download from the link directly below...<br>

    http://athiril.blogspot.com/2010/07/mamiya-rb67-pros-repair-manual-and.html</p>

    <p>It can also be found at this site...<br>

    http://www.4shared.com/document/A1Vubzcj/Mamiya_RB67_Pro_S_Repair_Manua.html</p>

  6.  

    <blockquote>

    <p>Mpix does 5 x 5 for 79 cents and 8 x 8 for $1.99. I don't know what you consider "reasonable" pricing.<br>

    <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.mpix.com/PrintPricing.aspx" target="_blank">http://www.mpix.com/PrintPricing.aspx</a></p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I believe those are for only digital image prints and I don't believe MPIX has any 120 film services for printing, at least looking around the site quickly.<br>

    Dwayne's doesn't list those particular sizes for reprints, but and 8x10 color is $1.99. Print it 8x8 on 8x10 paper and trim the excess or give then a call and see if they would do the sizes needed.</p>

    http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/

  7. <blockquote>

    <p>On most medium format cameras the mirror stays up until the shutter is cocked for the next exposure. They generally don't have instant return mirrors like 35mm cameras, unless you have a motor drive on the body.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Checking the cameras I own.... no motor drives.<br>

    Mamiya 645 ProTL mirror returns<br>

    Bronica EC mirror returns<br>

    Mamiya RB67 mirror stays up<br>

    Hasselblad 501C mirror stays up</p>

    <p>So I wouldn't say most MF cameras. Perhaps ones with mechanical, rather than electronic operation the mirror would stay up and are operated down when the camera is cocked..</p>

    <blockquote>

     

    </blockquote>

  8. <p>May be totally unrelated and not the problem you're encountering..... I have an older Bronica EC that occasionally the mirror would stay up after an exposure. It actually got stuck up on the aging foam that had gotten gummy. Replacement of the foam fixed it.</p>
  9. <blockquote>

    <p>Argh, it gives me nausea when I see the price of these things. My stuff cost a fortune and now its like worthless...........</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Ahh, but the enjoyment and rewards of using all that stuff was priceless :)</p>

  10. <p>I'm sort of anal when it comes to saving receipts. I had purchased a a Bronica EC back around 1976 and a while ago found the receipts for the purchase. I still have the camera and it still works well with the exception of the battery check light not working.</p>

    <p>Bronica EC Body ..... 9/10/1976 .... Cambridge Camera Exchange $274.95 <br />Bronica 120/220 Back ..... 9/10/1976 ..... Cambridge Camera Exchange <br />Nikkor 75/f2.8 ..... 9/10/1976 ..... Cambridge Camera Exchange $144.95 <br />Zenzanon 150/f3.5 ..... 3/18/1977 ..... Cambridge Camera Exchange $199.50 <br /><br /></p>

  11. <p>Well thanks to Craigslist, I now own a Beseler 23C II enlarger for the mere sum of $20(US), which included a 35mm neg carrier and darkroom timer. And from Ebay I have a 6x7 negative carrier for $25(US) with shipping included on its way in the mail. So problem solved - cheaply!!!!</p>

    <p>Originally the seller of the 23C II had asked $85 for the enlarger, but somewhere in the process of moving it around the baseboard became detached from the enlarger frame and at this point he simply wanted to be rid of it for $20. I was more than happy to lend a hand. Evidently when the unit was originally assembled the tee-nuts were on the top side of the baseboard rather than the bottom. They had simply pulled out when the enlarger was lifted. I'm surprised it hadn't toppled over at some point. Fixed it in about 20 minutes.<br /> Next step is checking out the alignment........</p>

    <p>Thanks for all the comments!!</p>

    <p>Below is the picture the seller had put in Craigslist<br>

    (image may disappear sometime in the future due to where it's hosted)</p>

    <p><img src="http://webpages.charter.net/markf_48/23C/23C.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></p>

    <p> </p>

  12. <p>I've had a Mamiya RB67 for a while and most of what I've shot I've just scanned the negatives. More recently I've purchased a Hasselblad kit which I've been pretty happy with and I now want to do some "real" B&W prints with my old Durst enlarger which has a maximum negative size of 6x6.<br>

    I've come to a crossroads of sorts in that I either let go of the RB67 and if I want prints with the aspect ratio the 6x7 gives, simply crop the Hasselblads 6x6 negative accordingly.<br>

    or......<br>

    I've been looking for a used enlarger that is capable of 6x7, but I'm not sure if the additional 1 cm is worth investing in what might be an additional enlarger that primarily would be for the RB67. I've looked at a few used Beseler 23C's and most I found only come with a neg carrier for 35mm which would mean purchasing a neg carrier at additional expense. My Durst is pretty much in mint condition and I don't believe I want to sell that to "upgrade" for reasons of negative size.</p>

    <p>The question most simply put is, if you've used a 6x7 format, have you missed not having the additional 1 cm by changing to a 6x6?</p>

     

  13. <blockquote>

    <p>Go to WalMart and find the send out box at the photo department.<br /> Fill in one of the send out envelopes with 120 Color Negative Develop ONLY on it and drop it in the send out box, it will be back in about a week. Don't ask at the counter as they will probably just tell you that they don't do that film. <strong>The send out service goes to Dwayne's.</strong></p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Martin, this may be true where you are located, but the Walmart that I use has been sending the film via a courier to a Fuji processing lab located in New York.</p>

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