jim_peterson2

<p>"famous old guru"!!! I've heard a lot of people say a lot of things about him but never have I heard him described as a "famous old guru"! :)</p>

<p>Oops! Noticed a goof. I meant to say,<br>

I would tend to disagree (at least partially) "with Andre" </p>

<p>Sorry about that.</p>

<p>Here in Tokyo there are lots of 7s on the used market. Sixes are harder to find just because people so rarely let go of them. But I rarely see either of them in the junk bins (section of the store where broken or excessively worn items are sold cheaply) whereas I see lots and lots of 35mm SLRs there. And I see lots of Mamiya 645 bodies, Pentax 67 and 645 bodies etc. in the junk bin as well. I don't know if that means the Mamiya rangefinders last longer or just that there aren't as many in circulation. I would tend to disagree (at least partially) because I don't tend to think of 35mm cameras as viable replacements for medium format for most applications. And suggesting that Mamiyas have a high cost for the body and then recommending a Leica seems rather self contradictory. As for the RB, it does have a lot of wonderful applications and I love it, but in my case it wasn't getting enough use so I sold it and two 35mm rangefinders in exchange for a couple of Fuji medium format rangefinders. For me it was a great deal and I'm very happy with the results. </p>

<p>I bought the exact same kit a few days ago and there is no rattle. I've watched your video and mine definitely doesn't do that.</p>

<p>I found instructions for a similar mod, but one that is done by a third party, "Company Seven"<br>

<a href="http://www.company7.com/library/ptxshtr.html">http://www.company7.com/library/ptxshtr.html</a></p>

 

<p>When using the speed grip with my GS-1 I often find that something is slipping when I advance the film. Under normal conditions film advance and shutter cocking require two cranks of the advance lever. When mine begins to slip the count number in the frame counter advances normally and I can see that the base where the hand crank normally connects is rotating properly (I can see it because I don't have the cover that you're supposed to put on it when using the speed grip). But after two cranks of the lever it doesn't lock. The frame counter stops at the proper number but the lever doesn't lock. I can keep cranking it. So I'm guessing that it is failing to cock the shutter. The solution is to crank it very slowly and gently and it usually succeeds in cocking the shutter and locking the lever after one or two tries. Frame spacing is normal and consistent.<br>

Does anyone know why this happens and if there is an easy fix. I'm not too worried since I can still get it to work alright but if it gets worse it may be a problem.</p>

<p>I think it broken beyond repair and probably worth next to nothing. But I'll be happy to take it off your hands for you and will even cover the postage! ;)<br>

Honestly though, I hope it isn't anything serious and I must admit that I am deeply envious of you!!!</p>

<p>I enjoy my Pro TL a lot and have found lenses to be extremely abundant and cheap. The Pro TL is the last manual focus model Mamiya made for their 645 line so there is nothing old or retro about this camera. I recommend the AE prism finder and the larger winder unless you are really eager to go old school with a WLF and hand winding crank. That can be a lot of fun too and it makes the camera quite a bit smaller.</p>

<p>I've been looking at similar cameras in recent months. While the Fuji 6x9 rangefinders produce excellent results and are generally loved by their owners the drawbacks for me are the size (after all, what's the point of a rangefinder if its that big?) and the 6x9 format. Personally I enjoy 6x6 and 6x7 much more. So the cameras that really get my attention these days are the Fuji GF670 (and possibly the 670W) and the Mamiya 6 (and maybe the 7). <br>

The really attractive thing about the Fuji is the option of going 6x6 or 6x7. And I love the portability of the standard version with the collapsing bellows.<br>

On the other hand the Mamiya 6 (and the pricier 7) are incredibly compact as well and give you the option of exchangeable lenses. <br>

In the mean time I have recently picked up the Fuji GS645 and am really enjoying it even though it is only 6x4.5.<br>

Having said all of that, if I were you I would definitely hang onto the Hassy regardless of what other cameras you buy.</p>

<p>I've been using Tri-X 400 quite a bit. I was told by store clerks that T-Max requires a specific developer that is more expensive so I stayed away from it. Then just the other day T-Max 400 was on sale so I grabbed a few rolls. I also dutifully purchased some T-Max developer and fixer. Wow, that stuff is expensive! The developer is four times more expensive than the Fuji SPD that I usually use. So then I asked around on the forums a bit and found out that lots of folks use other developers with T-Max and it works out just fine once you establish a baseline. Oh well, live and learn I guess.<br>

Anyway, it was raining today but I've already loaded up my first roll of T-Max 400 in the RB and plan on taking it out tomorrow once the rain stops! Can't wait to see how it turns out.</p>

<p>If the question is how to use Bronica SQ-A lenses on the NEX then how can "use Nikon lenses" be a solution??? :)</p>

<p>I have the PG200 but will confess that I've still not used it enough to have a very clear opinion of it. It is fairly compact for a 200mm and significantly shorter than the PG250. I have a photo of it here: <a href="http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/bronica-gs-1/">http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/bronica-gs-1/</a></p>

<p>Without making any claims about accuracy I do like the fact that I can visually match my scanned output to the slides on the light table. Since I usually don't order prints with negative film my only reference is often my memory, which I don't trust at all. :) <br>

So with slides I can get consistency between developed film, screen image and with a bit more work printed output. Of course that doesn't address the matter of whether any of that is accurately matched to the original subject, but nevertheless it gives me a sense of some objectively controllable consistency in my workflow and output.<br>

Recognizing all the good points made about the advantages of negative film, for the above reasons I enjoy slide film and home scanning/printing very much. But when it comes to monochrome that I develop at home I enjoy the advantages of negative film.</p>

<p>Mr. de Bakker, have you ever posted a comment that didn't sound condescending or insulting of someone? It seems like every time you join one of these discussions lots of people take offense at your tone (and sometimes your content) and that seems to only get you going to write even longer, more offensive posts. Perhaps you enjoy the process in some way but I'm afraid it makes my experience of visiting this site far less pleasurable. I think you have a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience and I could probably learn a lot from you, if only the threads you join could remain pleasant and civil. Are you like this in real life too???<br>

Wishing it was better...<br>

Jim Peterson</p>

<p>I think the only reason Bronica made two lenses for the GS-1 that are so close in focal length is because they have very different applications. I'm not sure whether the 110 goes to 1:1 magnification or not (unlikely) but the point is that if you do any amount of close up photography the 100/3.5 is going to be frustrating. But if you are shooting portraits, landscape, street, or anything else where you aren't very close to the subject I doubt the 110 will have any significant advantages over the 100.<br>

For my GS-1 kit I have the 50, 65, 100, 150 and 200. I'm not sure I need anything as long as the 250 since I mostly use my GS-1 for handheld work.</p>

<p>I bought every one of my MF cameras because they were incredibly cheap; usually found in the junk bin and almost all of them for less than $100. I've gotten a few duds in the process and a whole bunch of gems. Same story for the lenses. <br>

As for brands, I've ended up with one or more of the following brands: Pentax, Bronica, Mamiya, and Yashica. Love em all!</p>

<p>My GS-1 user's manual lists the 110 macro as still in planning and yet to be released so I can't confirm the details. But I guess the obvious difference is 10mm of focal length and the minimum focus distance/max magnification. FWIW the 100/3.5 has 6 elements in 4 groups and the aperture goes from 3.5 to 22. The minimum focus distance is 75cm and it takes a 72mm filter.<br>

I would suspect that the macro is longer and heavier.<br>

Ah... a quick look revealed this spec page for the macro.<br>

<a href="http://www.tamron-usa.com/bronica/prod/gs110.asp">http://www.tamron-usa.com/bronica/prod/gs110.asp</a></p>

<p>I find that the 127 and the 90 make for a wonderful combination.<br>

127mm:<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/revdocjim/image/139388912/original.jpg" alt="" /><br>

90mm:<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/revdocjim/image/139388913/original.jpg" alt="" /></p>

 

<p>I have a copy of the 45/2.8 (older version) that also has a "Sample" stamp on it. You can see a photo of it here: <a href="http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/mamiya-645-pro-tl/sony-dsc-43/">http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/mamiya-645-pro-tl/sony-dsc-43/</a><br>

I too am curious about whether it adds to the value but haven't found any definitive answers yet.</p>

<p>Pixel counts are not an accurate measure of quality so it's hard to know how to answer the question. Just look at modern digital cameras and you will see rather quickly that more pixels does not equal better image quality. Each sensor has different capabilities and each software app varies too. I just bought a 24mp digital camera and the image quality is clearly not twice as good as its predecessor, which was 12mp.</p>

<p>The SQ-A (or other SQ versions) is a great option if you want 6x6 format. Add the AE prism finder and speed grip and it functions a lot like an SLR. Choose the WLF and manual crank and it suddenly feels quite retro!<br>

If you don't mind sizing down to 645 there are many more options. The Bronica ETR is quite similar to the SQ-A but if you want pure ease of use without all the modular stuff the best SLR option is the Pentax 645n (just my opinion of course!). It will most definitely help you take great photos.<br>

If you really want something light weight there is the rangefinder option but as mentioned above these tend to get pricey.</p>

<p>I don't know if you've seen any good photos of them so thought this might interest you.<br>

<a href="http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/mamiya-rb67-professional-sd/">http://chemicalcameras.wordpress.com/mamiya-rb67-professional-sd/</a><br>

Unfortunately the older one I have isn't just the regular prism viewer but rather the metered one. But the unmetered one looks similar, just without the switch and dial.</p>

<p>OK, time for an update. First the good news; the lens works perfectly now. Now the embarrassing part; it always worked perfectly! The problem? It disappeared when I removed the rear lens cap! The rear-most edge of the rear group was hitting the rear lens cap, preventing it from going to infinity. But why? Well, just a minor detail... I was using an ETR rear lens cap. When I found the lens at the store in the junk section it had no caps. So I went to the crates full of caps and started to hunt. I couldn't find an SQ rear cap but found an ETR one and tried it out. And it fits just fine! I thought, lucky me! Only now have I discovered that the SQ cap is deeper. And the most embarrassing part: I had the lens almost fully disassembled before discovering the source of my problem. I removed the front ring and front element (rear cap still in place) and when I checked the focus ring it still wouldn't go to infinity. Then I removed the rear cap, the rear element and the rear plate and discovered that the focus ring worked fine. So I figured something had been jammed. Reattached the rear plate, re-inserted the rear element and it still worked fine. Now before reinserting the front element I attached the rear cap, flipped it over and started to insert the front element. Tested the focus ring and "oh no! the problem is back!" "Must be related to the front element"... Anyway this foolishness went on for some time until the light finally clicked on in this cloudy brain of mine! "I can see clearly now..." :)</p>

<p>Thanks Kevin. Unfortunately I don't think Butkus has anything with specific lens instructions. </p>

<p>I was very happy to find a fairly clean copy of this lens in the junk bin yesterday but when I got home I discovered the problem. The focus ring goes from MFD to about 5 meters and then binds and won't go any further. Where it stops it doesn't hit a hard stop with a clack like at the normal end of the range. It just suddenly gets tight and stops. <br /><br />So I want to take this lens apart and see what's going on but don't know where to begin. The lens butt has about 7 or 8 tiny screws so I'm a bit intimidated, not knowing which ones to loosen. Should I start from the front? <br /><br />Does anyone have experience disassembling this or similar lenses? How complicated is the focusing mechanism? Are there certain things I need to mark or note during dis-assembly in order to get it back together properly? And most importantly, does anyone have any convincing theories on what may be causing the problem?<br /><br />Any help or advice appreciated!</p>