girishmenon

I forgot to mention that I will always be using it on a tripod. So with the slight movement of the boat, IS will help, right? Even though it's on a tripod...

Hi, How much different is the old Canon 600mm F/4 non-IS lens compared to the IS I and IS II versions (I know that it's a bit heavier, but how's it optically?) Also, if most of my bird photograpby is done on a boat on a lake where the boat does drift a little in the wind, is IS recommended?

Hi, if you're on a boat in a lake, and using a tripod with a gimbal head (I'm using the Canon 100-400 m2, Manfrotto tripod and Nest NT-530H MKII gimbal), would you leave stabilisation ON or OFF?

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<p>Hi,<br> I like shooting highly magnified pictures of small objects. I shoot at f/4-f/5.6 for that selective focus look. The DOF at f/2.8 with 65 mm of extension tubes is too shallow. <br> I use the Tamron 90 f/2.8 mm macro lens (without stabllisation) with 65 mm of extension tubes. I use a tripod, focusing rail and the Wimberley Plamp II etc. However this setup restricts my movement and I cannot get into places that I'd like to.<br> I'm thinking of getting a Nikon 105 f/2.8 VR macro. Will the VR be effective with 65 mm of extension tubes, or even 31 mm of extension tubes?<br> Will I be able to get sharp handheld pictures at say 1/60th of a second at 1:1 magnification and a 31 mm extension tube?</p>

<p>Hi,<br> Thank you all for your replies. I will certainly archive the NEF and edit the DNG. The DNG converter has saved me some money, but I wish that Lightroom 4 could read the NEF in the first place. <br> I looked at my DNG in Lightroom, information about in-camera settings such as shutter speed, aperture and ISO has been retained in the DNG.</p>

<p>Hi,<br> Adobe Lightroom 4 refuses to process the NEF files that come out of the Nikon D7200. I understand that the DNG format strips my NEF off settings such as Active D-Lighting and other in-camera settings, none of which are important to me. I'm not interested in in-camera settings such as high ISO/long exposure noise reduction either.<br> I use VSCO Film to colour my photographs. I will print my photographs, say, 20 x 24 inches.<br> Are there any demerits at all in editing the DNG rather than the NEF? </p>

<p>That's a nice example. Thanks, Shun. If it had been a stationary bird, it might have been a little sharper? Or a faster shutter speed perhaps? </p>

<p>Thank you for the inputs.</p> <blockquote> <p>The D500, which you included in your subject line but didn't discuss, seems to be very good at high ISO, still not as good as the D750 in the tests I've seen, and also has fewer pixels, but its ability to shoot at 10 fps could be a real advantage for birds in flight.</p> </blockquote> <p>I'm now tending towards the D500. I thought about the photos that I want to make and the times when I was actually out making those photos. I always yearn for that little extra reach, fast focusing, and excellent IQ. I think that when I'm out there with my D500, I won't regret the decision. The D750 will always make me wonder whether I have made the correct decision.<br /> I have attached some images of the kind of photos that I want to make. All made with the 12 Mp D300 and 200-500 f5.6. After cropping, the images of the two small birds (I must admit that I haven't looked up their IDs yet) ended up at 1.5 megapixels. The D500 with its 20 Mp should be able to give me a nice 6" x 9" print at 300 dpi, right? The image of the parakeet is a cool 6.7 Mp. The D500 would take that up to about 10 Mp?<br /> I couldn't help but notice that the cross type sensors on the D500 don't fall on the rule of thirds. It would have been nice if it had.<br> <img src="http://www.girishmenon.com/photonet/d500-13.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="648" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.girishmenon.com/photonet/2.jpg" alt="" width="332" height="500" /><br> <img src="http://www.girishmenon.com/photonet/3.jpg" alt="" width="332" height="500" /><br> <img src="http://www.girishmenon.com/photonet/1a.jpg" alt="" width="332" height="500" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>Thank you for all your replies.<br> I have been using APS-C cameras since 2003 and really miss the field of view of a 50mm lens on a 35mm full frame camera. I also think that a full frame camera will support my portraiture endeavors more than an APS-C, also taking the high ISO performance into account since I enjoy making photos in low light.<br> Thanks once again. </p>

<p>Hi,<br> I want to upgrade my D300. Photographing birds with the D300 was always a challenge due to poor ISO performance at 800 and above, and the 12 megapixels are too little for photographing small birds which are some distance away (especially since I want to make prints, 12" x 18" and 16" x 20"). Photographing small birds is one of my primary objectives in the coming months.<br> At the moment, the D750 is my #1 choice. I do environmental portraitures too, and miss the field of view that a 50mm lens brings on a full frame body (a 50mm lens is all that I ever needed back in the days when I used film).<br> But the D7200 costs significantly lesser (almost half). I can get the D7200 and Tamron 180mm macro for the cost of a D750.<br> However, does the IQ of the D7200 match up to the D750 at say, 6400 ISO?<br> I will make my final decision purely on the basis of IQ at high ISO values. <br> I look forward to your insights.</p>

<p>I just came upon the HARMAN TiTAN 4x5 Pinhole camera. I want to get into large format photography and I reckon that this sort of a pinhole camera will help me understand the basics of sheet film, loading film holders and processing etc. before I make bigger investments. <br> However, I would like some sort of a viewfinder because composition is very important to me. I have read that the iPhone can be used, but I'm looking for other options. I read about "sports finders" but I haven't found a single note that explains them clearly.<br> Is there any way I can have a focusing screen for a pinhole camera such as this one?</p>

<p>Any idea what the shutter speed on this thing might be?</p>

<p>How good is the VC on the Tamron 150-600mm lens? Am I correct in assuming that a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second (handheld) will be good enough across the entire range of focal lengths?<br> Is it necessary to switch off the VC when using a tripod?</p>

<p>Thank you very much Jamie Robertson. I think I'll upgrade to the E-P5 eventually since I have the 17mm lens. I prefer optical viewfinders, the VF-1 does the job.</p>

<p>A DSLR is something that I will always use in the studio and for wildlife shoots. But I'm looking for something smaller, for street photography. The E-P3 did not give me satisfactory results. Mind you, it's more than sufficient for editorial print work and online audiovisuals, but not for museum prints, I reckon. But it's size is perfect.<br> The 16-35 on a 60D with battery grip is a bulky piece of kit when you're trying to go unnoticed. Is the X100 a lot better than Olympus?</p>

<p>Yes, Jamie : )</p>

<p>It's rust. The contacts are fine, just the border. I have ordered some rust converter, let's see how it goes. </p>

<p>Thanks. Yes, I need to make archival prints of the photos. I think I'll stick with the DSLR but also carry the mirrorless camera on my travels. At times when I don't feel like lugging a heavier camera, I'll bring out the morrorless.<br> It's just that these little cameras are so much easier to handle and demand less attention. </p>

<blockquote> <p>900km of driving and 40GB of images later, what I found was - the 35/1.4 is a gimmick lens. When traveling, f/1.4 is useless.</p> </blockquote> <p>That really depends on what you're shooting. The 35 1.4 is awesome in low light, even at night for making environmental portraits indoors or on the streets. It's also fantastic for wide angle landscapes especially if you have strong foregrounds. You would need to stop down for more DOF though.<br> I know someone who photographed the entire catwalk at a fashion show using this lens at f/1.4 on a 5dm3. He had his focus point set on the model's chest and this ensured that the face was in focus. Distance from your subject also affects DOF. </p>

<p>Thanks Jos van Eekelen.<br /> I have tested the camera with a 40 2.8 lens. Things seem just as they should be in terms of operation, images are clean and there seems to be no signs of fungus in the sensor.</p>

<p>EOS cameras with the 16-35 2.8 lens is my primary setup. I also have the Olympus PEN E-P3 with the 17mm 1.8 lens.<br> In recent times, I find DSLR cameras more and more inconvenient to use outdoors i.e. for street and travel photography. There's no question that the image quality of the DSLR camera with that lens is exceptional but how far behind is the E-P3 with the 17 1.8?</p>

<p>A friend of mine bought a Canon 60D, hardly ever used it and kept it very badly. The carry bag was full of fungus, the lens has a lot of fungus. He has asked me to keep it for him so that its condition doesn't further worsen. I have put the lens away in an airtight box with silica gel because I don't intend to use it.<br> I plan to get the sensor cleaned by Canon and use the camera. However, the hot shoe is rusted and so I'm worried about keeping this camera with the rest of my equipment in the dry cabinet. Can this rust spread to other cameras and lenses?</p>

<p>I like the fact that manual focus AiS lenses work on Nikon DSLR cameras. Canon FD lenses don't work that way. I wanted a quality lens for my wildlife photography and that's the only reason I went for the Nikon 500mm f/4P (and it can work on Canon bodies too). <br> But I also like the additional focus points on bodies such as the D300, D7000, D7100 and now even the D5300 as compared to their Canon counterparts.<br> It might be logical to trade the Canon 16-35 for the Nikon 17-35.</p>

<p>Thank you so much for all your replies. Yes, Shun. It's a long story and some of you will think that I'm crazy.<br> After that post, http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00c2w5 I simply purchased a Neewer Nikon-Canon EOS adapter with the focus confirmation chip glued on. The focus confirmation chip worked great but the adapter didn't fit too well on the 500 F/4 ED-IF P. There was a circular displacement of say 2 millimeters which is easier to deal with when using a 28mm or 50mm lens but not a lens of this size. So while shooting, I had to pull the weight of my right hand down to combat this displacement. <br> I then contacted one other manufacturer (I don't recall their name but they were a small team who made customised adapters). Their Nikon-Canon adapter could be screwed at the back of the Nikon mount, however, I wasn't interested in melting the cement around the screws of the original Nikon mount to take them off and fix their mount.<br> Nevertheless, I did a birding trip with the Neewer adapter and the Canon 50D and Canon 550D (also had access to a 5dm3 briefly) and posted this http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00cUgN<br> During this trip, I realised that I should invest in an affordable Nikon body for my birding trips rather than dealing with a lose big lens. I do only one, maybe two of these birding/wildlife trips every year for leisure, so I didn't want to make a big investment. I'm not too fond of the handling of the 3000 and 5000 series and the D7000 was new and expensive back then. So I purchased a used D300 from Adorama.<br> I've since done a couple of wildlife trips with the 500mm lens and D300 but then again, I had problems with my tripod and had to shoot at hight ISO settings to ensure fast shutter speeds. I'm not displeased with what I got out of my D300 during these trips. I haven't printed any of the photos though. <br> Now then, as my Canon 50D is getting older, so am I. I used to mainly do outdoor travel assignments but now the thought of setting up a studio close to home and increasing my portraiture work seems like a good idea.<br> I have limited money to invest in gear at the moment because of the costs involved in acquiring the studio space. I'm considering the Nikon 24-120 F/4 VR on the D300 for studio portraits rather than purchasing say a 7D or 70D and the 24-105 IS (in our local markets, a Nikon 24-120 VR costs about $ 650).<br> My primary lens all these years has been the Canon 16-35 f/2.8 USM II which has the 50D at the moment.<br> I rarely use long lenses for my professional work so I had never invested in one. The other day, I got a good deal on a Nikon AiS 80-200 F/4 ($95 on ebay). <br> In a few months, I want to travel to a pinewood forest and photograph the trees in black and white, that's why I bought the 80-200 lens.<br> The purpose of this thread was to understand your experiences with printing photos made with the D300. Would you say that dynamic range of the D300 is more than black and white film?<br> Last, but not the least, while all this was happening, I got a good deal on a Nikon D200. I purchased it four months ago as 'back up'. I'm hoping to recover all this money sooner rather than later with my studio work before I sit down with a light head and re-evaluate everything that has gone down. </p>