henning_stedtnitz

<p>Yes, yes, I heard of that festival, didn't see a whole lot of blondes around here though. I'm still in need of help though, so if anyone knows anything, i'd be very grateful.</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br>

I'm in Riga and I need some cheap 35mm film and a lab that will process and print it. Anyone got any suggestions? I found M Bendiks on the web and went to the address they provided, but there's nothing there :) I'm hoping someone on here can help me out.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>KEH have answered that they will definitely replace the faulty lens, so I sent it off yesterday. Can't begin to explain how happy I am with their customer support.</p>

<p>Body functions absolutely perfectly without the lens. Should have tested this fricking ages ago. The pin in the lens that is supposed to be moved by the mechanism in the body seems very stiff to me. So this is probably exactly the same as your ETRSI problem. I have mailed KEH asking very kindly if a replacement would be possible. If not, I'll shell out the 350 and get a 110mm macro lens, which I was planning on anyway.</p>

<p>The V28PXL changes nothing. So it has to be the lens contacts, right?</p>

<p>Okay, let's see how the V28PXL works out.<br>

On a sidenote, I have developed both rolls that I used in the GS-1, one had four exposed frames, the other two. All of them were perfectly exposed. So the shutter is definitely not the problem. All I can think of now is a synchronization issue. Or the battery, of course.</p>

<p>Actually, I have to correct myself. If I flip the MLU switch, the lens shutter closes, but the mirror only moves when I flip the camera upside down. When I noticed this problem first, I took out the wasted roll of film, removed the actual film from the backing paper and used the backing paper in the film back so I could test the thing without wasting film. I've been playing with it for a while and on a few rare occasions, sometimes using the MLU switch, the mirror actually flipped up by itself. This has happened maybe three times in about a hundred test "exposures".<br>

I have a Varta V28PXL in the mail that I will test with this body (btw KEH tested this body and said it worked perfectly, same for the other body that I sent them), so that would be the third battery I put in there. At some point I guess I'll realize this problem is more complex than batteries and stop buying new ones :/</p>

<p>I bought a GS-1 from KEH.com a while ago, with the 100mm f/3.5 lens. I put a 4LR44 battery in it, took two shots and then it stopped working. Meaning when I press the shutter release, the shutter goes off but the mirror stays down. The only way to move the mirror is with the MLU switch (which is kinda sketchy) and by gravity, turning the camera upside down. So I mailed KEH and upon their request sent back the body only. They sent me a replacement for free, so I put the battery in it, took two shots and it stopped working. So I put a brand new 4LR44 in, and it worked for five exposures and then quit working again. KEH mentionend that the alkaline batteries might not work perfectly with the GS-1, so I put in a 4SR44, wich is a silver lithium battery, and it doesnt work at all.<br /> Is there any explanation for this behavior? Are there any mistakes in the handling of the camera that I could be making that might explain this? Please share any thoughts you may have.</p>

<p>I think I have the same problem. I only have one lens, and I fumbled with the mirror lock up button before trying to fire the shutter for the first time. When I press the release, there's a faint click and half a minute later the mirror goes up and stays up until i wind on. I can't even get the lens off now anymore. What am I doing wrong?</p>

<p>I like Voigtländer lenses, so I'd get a 1.4/40 Nokton and either a 4/21 Skopar or 2.5/75 Heliar down the road.<br>

Anyone got any criticism on those lenses?</p>

<p>I can understand where Les is coming from, but I'd still keep at least one film camera at all times.</p>

<p>Adox should be ready to ship their APX replacement in all sizes from 35mm to 8x10 in about a year.</p>

<p>I develop APX100 in Rodinal 1:100 for 50 minutes. It gives me sharp, moderately grainy negatives with absolutely stunning tonality. This combination made APX100 my favourite film.</p>