brian_hooks

Thanks all, I will research them in

hopes that one of them will be able to

process it.

<p>While looking through some of my grandfather's old camera bags I discovered an old roll of exposed film. I immediately took it to our city's major camera shop to be processed where I was told that it was a format that could not be processed due to the unusual size of the film. They told me it was KodacolorII C41 film which was no problem but that the width of the film which was 2 3/4" rather than the usual 2 1/2" would not fit in their machine.<br>

Does anyone know of a photo developing company that would be able to process this film? I am very anxious to see if any of the film is salvageable. </p><div></div>

Maybe integrated radio flash triggers

like the new cannon models?

You could always custom fit the foam

of a pelican case to accommodate your

speedlights.

Unless your unhappy with the range at the wide end of your

28-70 (or the weight) I'd doubt the image quality of the 18-

35 would be better than what you've already got especially

since you'd have to switch your camera to DX mode to use

that lens. I would imagine image quality would actually

decrease with this setup.

Not sure where I saw the photo but at

some point I've seen a shot done

where someone did the "drop in water"

photo of an unusable lens. So now you

only need a fish tank to pull off that

shot.

Was considering the purchase of a used lens from an internet auction site. If the lens has fungus I may be able to get it for a good price.

My question is would a trip to Nikon for CLA stop the fungus in the lens from growing further?

Thanks for all the responses. It looks

like this may be a viable option for

(daylight) sports shooting.

<p>I currently own a D300s and shoot a lot of HS sports mainly for fun (ie. non paid). I usually by my equipment used because well, I'm not getting paid so that's what I can afford. I currently shoot my football pics with my trusty push pull 80-200 and although it has served me well I have been longing for a little more reach. I was wondering if anyone has any insight into using the old style (again, what I can afford) 300mm f4 for sports. Will this combo be able to focus fast enough for sports? I see it has an intricate focus limiting switch which seems like it may aid in keeping focus speed high and my D300s focuses fast (to me) in other circumstances.</p>

<p>I currently own a D300s and previously had a D90. I too shoot mainly for fun and mainly sports. With the crop sensor camera I found the 80-200 to be a little too long on the wide end so I settled for a used 28-70 f2.8 lens. With me seated below the basket I could get shots from half court to right under the bucket. </p>

<p>When I have had problems removing a polarizing filter from my lens I was able to finally remove it by using rubber surgical gloves purchased at the drug store.</p>

 

John,

 

After looking at the grip for my D300s I see that it also has this switch. It goes around the shutter release button and functions as an

on/off switch for the grip shutter release. Have you looked to see if yours has this switch? I can try to post a picture later if needed.

 

Brian

<p>It seems as if on the battery grip I had for my D90 there was a switch that could be turned (possibly surrounding the shutter button?) that would disable the battery grip shutter release. I would assume this was put in to keep you from accidentally firing shots while the camera was hanging by your side.</p>

<p>Brian</p>

 

<p>Thanks to all for the information. It looks like I will have to use a combination of mathematics,repetition, and luck to get the lighting perfect.<br>

@rodeo joe sorry for the confusion with the title. What I was wanting to know was what/how cls was choosing flash power so that I could manually set power with my remote trigger. A best case scenerio would have been to be able to see flash power in exif data so that I could reverse engineer the lighting. </p>

 

<p>In an effort to continue advancing my photography I have been working on off camera flash. I feel I've been pretty sucessful using the CLS system and have recently purchased a Yognuo flash trigger to be able to control my flash in more demanding situations (ie outdoors daylight). This has forced me to begin using my flash in manual mode and I'm finding it dificult to "know" what power setting is right for each situation. In the past I've taught myself how to adjust my apature/shutter speed by leaving the camera in apature/shutter priority then seeing what it chooses and then puting the camera in manual and making adjustments from there. I'm having more problems doing this with my flash as I have yet to see what my flash power has been in any of the exif information plus I'm unsure how to factor in other variables such as distance from subject or light modifiers (ie softbox). Is there any type of chart/graph that will help with setting my flash power. I realize that in manual mode the flash "tells" you the effective range it will be firing in but again with modifiers in place things seem to get a little trickier.<br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>After testing again I seem to get 22 shots before buffering using jpeg fine writing only to Sandisc CF.</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the info. I believe the SD card may have been the culprit as I only got around 12-15 shots before hitting the buffer. I will try removing it for sports and just using my Sandisc extreem III to see if that helps.</p>

 

<p>I have been very happy with my recent purchase of a used D300s but recently found myself hitting the buffer at a youth track meet. I was shooting jpeg fine and had comparable cards in both CF and SD slots but I was wondering if the buffer limit would be higher if I removed one card and just shot one or the other. I am not sure exactly how the buffer works if there are separate (drives) for each card or if one drive must write to both cards?<br>

Thanks much<br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>I guess what I wanted to know is if the newer cameras are no longer being built with protectors. If so is it because they were redundant or because they have a stronger LCD composite?</p>

 

<p>As I look at the newest crop of Nikon DSLR's they seem to be coming out without LCD covers. "I have yet to see one in person just from the photos I've seen". Is this an indication that the screen protector is not needed or have they gone to a stronger more scratch/impact resistant screen? I find myself having to frequently remove my cover to clean dust that gets between it and the screen and was wondering if it were safe to simply remove it? I realize that this is indeed a layer of protection that would keep the screen from cracking from an impact but I am careful with my equipment and was mainly keeping it on for scratch protection.<br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>John,<br>

For what you are intending to use the lens for (if I am understanding you right) I think the 80-200 non VR would be very suitable. If you, like myself are using your camera mostly for personal projects rather than as a paying endeavor I'd think the 80-200 would get the job done. Just know the limitations of the lens and realize that you will not be able to bump your shutter speed up in low light conditions. I shoot with the even older push pull 80-200 and for what I'm needing I am more than happy with the results. Remember, that although these lenses have been superceded by newer versions they were not weak lenses when made, on the contrary they were the top of the line pro lenses when they were introduced and take great images. I would imagine 20yrs from now a question might pop up on this forum that would ask if it worth spending more on a 70-200 VR VI or saving money on an "old" VR II version. <br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>If it is that close in size and weight to the 70-200 is it odd that it doesn't have a lens collar for tripod mount or am I missing something?</p>

 

<p>Maurice,<br>

You might want to try doing a "two button" reset on the camera to see if that helps. If not, (I know this is just a work-around) there is a setting that is burried in the menu that will allow you to review pictures with the thumbwheel. I will try to remember what menue sequence I used to set my D300s up like this and re-post.<br>

Good luck,<br>

Brian</p>

<p>I get decent results with my D300s at ISO 800. Maybe you could invest in a seperate noise reduction softaware that may clear your photos up to a level you can tolerate. Look into "noise ninja", I believe it is one of the better software options for noise reduction.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Maybe you should give the battery grip another chance. I have a D300s w battery grip and it works well for me going from landscape to portrait, the only real difference (size/mass wise) from the D3 would be the seam between the two pieces and the thumbwheel.</p>