brian_hooks

<p>jiawei,<br>

I have the 80-200 push pull D-version which I used on my D90 prior to switching to D-300s. I used it for shooting HS and MS sports (football). I have never used the 70-200afs but I feel the focus is pretty quick. Before selling the D90 I did a unscientific side-by-side focus motor comparison between the D90 and D300s and I would call it a draw. In my opinion the big advantage the D300(s) has over the D90 is it's ability to lock onto and stay focused on an object. If the D90 could lock on better I'd imagine the images from the two would be identical. The other thing I noticed with the 80-200 screw drive focus when compared to my 28-70afs is that the movement of the motor focusing the lens tended to twist (torque?) the camera as it focused, usually my shutter speed was high enough for this to be a non-factor but it is much more pronounced in the screw drive lens.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>What's an AA filter?</p>

<p>I am looking at buying a third flash to add to my current sb-600 and sb-800. I currently use the onboard flash on my D300s to trigger these using CLS. I recently became aware of the lumopro lp160 and it's ability to ignore the pre-flashes associated with ttl-CLS but still be used off camera in manual mode as a slave flash. I searched the site for more information with limited sucess with some info stating that the flash worked/synced well while others stating that the flash would only sync to 1/100 sec.<br>

My questions is for those who have a similar set up, have you found a sync barrier at 1/100 and if so exactly what happens when you shoot at a higher shutter speed, say 1/250. Does the lumopro simply not fire or would it just add the black bar to the bottom of the area being lit by that flash?<br>

Thanks much,<br>

Brian</p>

<p>@ Shun,<br>

Do you feel like we've reached the "wall" in fps with mirrored cameras?</p>

 

<p>I had actually expected the D4 to be more of an exponential step up from the D3 (X/S). I was expecting higher MP, a entirely new sensor and such. I had theorized that with the almost two year delay (if you go by nikon's usual body release schedule) in getting this new model out that even though the manufacturing side of the business being down that the engineering side would still be working full steam. I had figured that what the models that would eventually come out would be closer to D4x, D800x, D400x.</p>

<p>Using A FF camera would help, in the sense that you would move closing to the subject due to the wider FOV of FF, with respect to the same FL used.<br>

Thanks Leslie,<br>

I think you actually caught on to what I was asking. Still can't afford to go FF but interesting to know how things work.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Sorry, apparently the image I was trying to post is too large and I'm not certain of how to make it small enough to fit, but in essence my question was that in the shot i was trying to take I wanted to shoot at or near 200mm to compress the image as much as possible and bring the background in closer but I was limited in how far I could back away from my subject and thus the amount of zoom I could use. It had occured to me that a full frame sensor would have less extension (?) than my crop sensor camera which would allow me to shoot the same shot closer to the 200mm max of my zoom. I just wasn't sure if the background would be pulled in the same amount as with the crop sensor camera.<br>

Hope that helps</p>

<p><img src=" alt="" />Example...</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

Lately I have been exploring compressing the background in shots by using longer lenses. I currently shoot Nikon D300s and have been using my 80-200 (push pull) lens. I really like the effect but I find that many times I cannot get far enough away from my subject to get anywhere near 200mm where the greatest compression would tend to be. My question is would someone shooting say a D700 or D3 full frame camera have the same amount of compression at the same distance or would the crop sensor magnify the compression just as it does the effective reach of the lens. For example would a shot taken with a crop sensor camera at 200mm have the same compression effect as one taken at 300mm on full frame? I hope I'm explaining my question correctly. Just trying to understand the physics.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Thank you all for the different opinions and options. At this point I think I may continue downloading from camera as I am not really needing them downloaded that fast and I have extra batteries. What I was really fishing for was a few people to state that by doing so the electronics in their camera were damaged. That way I would learn from their mistakes. <br>

Thanks much for the help.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>I recently replaced my D90 with a new to me D300s. Hooray for me! I know... Only a fool would get a D300(s) now that the D7000 is available, but it works better for me because I often shoot sports and need a body with a bigger buffer and better autofocus. The image quality I get from the D90/D300 sensor is fine for me I just need more in-focus shots.<br>

Anyway, I have a SD slot reader in my computer that I had used to download my pictures from my camera along with plugging the camera itself into the computer to download. Now that I have the D300s I cannot directly plug the CF card into the computer to download pictures and would either have to rely on purchasing a card reader or only connecting the camera to the computer. I did not want to rely solely on the SD slot to manage my pictures.<br>

I have seen several posts regarding the potental hazards of bending the pins when inserting/removing the CF card and I'd also seen posts suggesting not to download pictures from the camera itself. I've never really seen any posts that say exactly what the actual reason for not pluging the camera into the computer is. If it is just an issue of the speed required to download the images then that is not really a problem for me. However if there is some type of issue where people have had their camera's fried by plugging into the computer then I guess it's time to buy a card reader.<br>

FWIW I always have the camera off when plugging in/unplugging and only turn it on after the cord has been connected and I always remove it immediatly after downloading to avoid any power surges.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Caitlin,<br>

Simon is right in that you have to set your lens to F22 to eliminate the FEE error on your camera but what he didn't convey is that in apature mode you control the apature with the front (index finger) thumb wheel. You can see what F-stop you are at from the top LCD screen. To get the maximum amount of out of focus bokeh you would want to roll to the lowest available number of the lens you are working with.<br>

Hope this helps,<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Thanks for all the quick responses. For those interested in the lenses I use are the 80-200 (push pull) and sometimes 28-70. I guess my question was answered and it's time to expose correctly and just use noise reduction.</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

My current camera is a D90 and many times I find myself needing to bump my ISO up in order to achieve the shutter speeds I need (eg. night football). I try not to go higher than ISO 800 (occasionally 1600) with my camera, and instead will choose to underexpose my shots slightly rather than extreem ISO, then lighten the shot later in PP. This seems to be working OK thus far but I was just wondering if I should be putting more effort into trying to perfect removing noise from pictures and abandon lightening them in post process?<br>

FWIW... Getting a better body with superior high ISO is not an option as I think my next body will be a used D300s (for the superior autofocus) which uses the same sensor as the D90 unless the new D400(?) is somehow miraculously priced the same as a used D300s.<br>

Thanks much,<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Make sure you've rotated your lens all the way until it is fully locked in. My 50mm 1.4 is noticably tighter than any of my other 5 lenses and I have to make a mental note to make sure it is fully engaged before attempting to photograph with it.</p>

<p>Brian</p>

<p>Maybe you could look at the parameters of the last shots you had taken before the camera locked up and try to duplicate that in manual mode. Say you were shooting aperture priority and both times the camera locked up when your shutter speed was 1/200th. Try setting your camera to those settings and see if that gets it to consistently lock up.</p>

<p>@D.B.Cooper<br>

DB it still seems to me like the pop up flash blocker would work. Assuming the Vivitar is not sensitive to IR light the pre flashes from the pop up would not trigger the vivitar and it would only flash when the SB-600 flashed. Of course only the SB-600 would be ttl but both flashes would then fire untethered.</p>

<p>Jiri,<br>

You may want to try the Nikon SG- 31R pop up flash "blocker". I have not used it but I believe it works by blocking most of the light from the pop up flash allowing the slave flash to be triggered by the IR light emitted from the pop up. If this works your Vivitar would then be triggered by your Sb-600 as you intended. They are not that expensive so it may be worth a try.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Jiri,<br>

You may want to try the Nikon SG- 31R pop up flash "blocker". I have not used it but I believe it works by blocking most of the light from the pop up flash allowing the slave flash to be triggered by the IR light emitted from the pop up. If this works your Vivitar would then be triggered by your Sb-600 as you intended. They are not that expensive so it may be worth a try.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>I have somehow changed settings on my D90 so that it no longer beeps when the focus locks on. Beep set to on AF area set to Auto-area, center focus point set to Normal zone. Any advice on this would be appreciated.<br>

Brian</p>

<p>Right now my longest lens is my 80-200 2.8 (push pull). I have found that even though it is old it still takes great pictures and when i reach the end of it's zoom capibilities I am able to crop my photos and get very good shots from longer distances. My question is more of a theoretical one where I wondered if there would be any (noticable) difference between an image that was say taken at 200mm then cropped vs. one that was shot at say 300mm. With all variables being the same like f-stop and shutter speed I would tend to believe they would be very close indeed. I am by no means an expert photographer so I am posting this theory question in hopes that perhaps the more knowledgeable photographers may be able to explain it to me.</p>

<p>Thanks much for the quick replys. After going through my settings again I believe I may have figured out my problem. My camera's focus priority had somehow gotten switched to AF A which seems to be some sort of meld between AF S and AF C. It would track the subject when depressed halfway but then wouldn't fire when the shutter was depressed all the way unless the camera had perfect focus. I believe with it set back to AF C I should get better results from my son's basketball games.<br />Thanks again</p>

<p>I've had my D90 for over 6 months now (and D50 before that) and I've had problems (with both) with the shutter not releasing when trying to shoot fast moving sports. The attached lens is my 80-200 Nikkor. I've got the camera set for constant focusing and have the shutter depressed halfway so that the camera/lens will track my subject, but when I go to take the picture the camera will not shoot as if is not focused suffeciently enough for a perfect picture. My question would be is there any way to set the camera to release the shutter regardless of optimal focus? My thinking is some shot is better than no shot. I've tried to find a way to solve this in the manual and through trian and error but have not come up with a solution.<br>

Thanks much for any assistance you are able to give,<br>

Brian</p>