paul_wheatland
-
Posts
1,439 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by paul_wheatland
-
-
<p>If your Canon FD lenses are silver breech ring mount the lens can be unlocked on the back of the mount to allow you to use all the f stops, wide open for focus and manual for desired f stop. If the lens is nFD improved newer mount you must unlock the lever in back with some plastic clip. I believe Canon provided these but they are easily misplaced and a DIY solution is needed. The above methods require totally MANUAL operation of the f stop ring! These allow use of adapters that your lenses will work WITHOUT optical element on most popular MIRRORLESS cameras.</p>
-
<p>On a few occasions, I have written to sellers about a mistake in a listing. I would never send a second notice. I have usually received a thank you to my note and we have both moved on. </p>
-
<p>Please be more specific so we can help by offering suggestions based on our experience. Rangefinder or SLR? Fully manual or battery dependent shutter? Interchangeable lenses or fixed? Prime lens or zoom? Let us know to better answer your question.</p>
-
<p>Luckily it is M42 and not the very early bayonet mount which is difficult to locate lenswise. I have the Pentax Takumar 35mm f3.5 semi automatic and the 200mm preset f5 both small sharp lenses which I use on my Canon F-1 with M42 to CanonFD adapter.</p>
-
<p>When I had mine a few years back, the horror stories about magnet issues prompted me to sell the camera while still functional. My Canon F-1 second version totally mechanical serves me as w ell as my 1959 Nikon F and my 1959 Leica M-3. Mechanical battery independent film cameras are my interest and there are technicians still able to CLA them.</p>
-
<p>Italy having rich deposits of bauxite, produced cameras and non photographic items made of artistically cast and machined<br>
aluminum. This camera certainly represents a handsome final product.</p>
-
<p>Try S.K. Grimes in Rhode Island USA to consider a fabrication of an adapter.</p>
-
<p>Merely seeing the size of the front group, I'd say it's a 28mm optic. Cannot read the beauty ring for specifics.</p>
-
<p>To use any cold shoe finders whether multiple or single focal length is no problem on LTM Leica cameras but using on M mount Leicas there is a problem. The top deck to include the cold shoe is 5mm higher on M cameras which may pose an issue with precise framing as indicated by parallax corrections. I had a similar problem using a 135 finder on Canon P Model, the finder and lens were designed for Canon IIb! Framing was off by a considerable amount. This bears trial and error if the scene is critical.</p>
-
<p>Try KEH for parts and repair cameras.</p>
-
<p>In my experience, any Zeiss product be it leaf shutter SLR, rangfinder with roller blind shutter can be difficult and expensive to repair. I now avoid these for use. The Nikon is a camera usually not prone to repair issues and is somewhat reasonable to be repaired if needed. I still use mine.</p>
-
<p>My experience with selenium cells is the wire connections eventually corrode. These connections seem to be two types, soldered and connection by spring flat brass tab. Sometimes merely pressing on the cell "restores" the bad connection.</p>
-
<p>Infinity should have the front standard/ lens board against the body with no gap! The leather cover is missing on the focus knob leading me to believe work has been done and may be faulty. You might write to the seller for a refund if the focus issue was not mentioned.</p>
-
<p>Typical problem with Retina IIc and IIIc advance mechanisms is worn cocking rack.</p>
-
<p>Simple fix: plumbers aluminum peel and stick tape. With ancient typewriter type something, name, a word, etc., trim neatly to cover offending scratched name, cover with newly created "label" problem solved at very little expense. I actually did this to cover ugly hand ground with antitheft vibrating engraver tool, name and ss number, got tired of looking at them.</p>
-
<p>Soligor and Vivitar used tx and t4 mounts that fit a variety of SLR cameras. My experience has been SOME interchange is possible but not 100 percent, use trial and error but do not force anything. For the Nikon, the mount lacks a skirt so it won't interfer with signal pin at 7 o'clock position on the body with certain Nikon bodies.</p>
-
<p>I have used him to CLA several Leica cameras. He is most accomodating and may be willing to address minor cosmetic issues. I was always happy with, promptness, pricing and professional competence. </p>
-
<p>I have had most every type of rollholder, far eastern, european and american none of which had these paper sleeves! IMHO you may not need them as they appear to not serve a purpose! The only one I kept is German made for 9x12 Linhof Precision from the 1930's and there is no evidence that paper sleeves were used or needed.</p>
-
<p>My past experience with cocking levers is twofold. First be sure cocking lever does not catch on the sides of the slot as it traverses the arc of arming or firing. Second, the fulcrum may need a drop of lube but no more.</p>
-
<p>I use a padded case that has a cover that closes with VELCRO and has a padded shoulder strap. The bag is vertical and shaped like the Rolleiflex. What it was made for, I do not know may have been for non photographic purpose??</p>
-
<p>My 1959 Leica M-3 with 1966 DR Summicron and my 1946 Leica IIIc with 1955? Konishiroku 50mm f1.9 Hexanon. I bought this camera with what the seller said was working with some Japanese lens. The camera shutter was unglued, the some lens is as described above and gives my DR Summicron a run for it's money!</p>
-
<p>As a fan of Rolleiflex, Cord and other TLR cameras, I am not happy with the cases. They are inconvenient. The best solution is a non leather bag and a non leather durable strap on the camera body. Leather looks great but creates corrosion on metal parts and straps have a habit of deterioration.</p>
-
<p>From personal experience, I would avoid Canon EF electronics are 40 years old, T90 has magnet issues lots of info on the 'net. My two choices are Canon F-1 but only versions 1 and 2(totally mechanical) and Canon A-1. Needing 30 second exposure use a stop watch or digital alarm.</p>
-
<p>My son and I as amateurs shot a wedding because the chosen photographer backed out two weeks before the event. The reason was never given, but we surmised it was because both bride and groom were very obese. They and the wedding party and reception was a fantastic success. My son and I had a wonderful experience photographing the nicest young couple!</p>
Canon AE-1 light leak problem
in DSLR & Film Cameras
Posted