John Di Leo

@chulster Thanks for the reply... Can you give an example of the above? I am not sure I understand.

Does the custom settings menu on the d810 allow for setting either aperture or shutter priority, or must that be done externally via the mode button, ie, independent of the custom settings menu? I would like for custom menu A to be aperture priority and B to be shutter priority, but it seems the modes for that are global settings only? TIA

do stones count?

Chene Vert, Baton Rouge, La.

Nikon 20mm ai...Cathedral Seville.

The AlCazar, Toledo

Granada from the AlHambra

First Communion...Leaving the Dark or Entering It

The Krewe of Rolling Elvi

Trying to shoot the "nice" picture for the Christmas Card

INteresting comments, all. Thanks. It does seem that most here compose for the screen, so cropping aspect is not an issue as on print. If you are going to have a commercial print made, is there a specific phrase that labs understand meaning that you want the whole image printed on whatever size of paper is needed to, say for example, the "long side" of the print to be 13"? It is of course a tried and true maxim to crop in the viewfinder and zoom with your feet, but sometimes you just can't and sometimes you get home and are in post and you see a part of the image that just appeals. This was in the corner of a set up shot for a headboard in an antiques garage outside of Barcelona. I wasn't thinking about 8x10 or 5x7 in Lightroom, but just to compose it. I would not want some robot lab tech to recompose it for me.

IE, to a ratio that can be printed on regular sizes of paper. Or, do you crop to where you like it and so what if it is 7x8 or 3x7 etc. I fall into the latter camp, I crop to where I like the result, little to no regard to what Walgreens or WalMart will reformat as. I do not print except via smugmug and even that is rare. But, often family and friends will want a copy of an image to print, and they can be disappointed when the resultant print is no longer formatted as they remember it, having been forced on to a 5x7 or 4x6, etc. by WalMart's AI? IN the old days, photo labs had instructions like "mount regardless" and "print as is." 2 questions: do you crop to keep a conventional aspect ratio, or to how you like it...and If you crop "how you like the composition regardless of conventional aspect ratios," what instructions do you give a lab when printing that will show the entire image, even if that means wide margins of "wasted paper?" TIA

where the music died, 1959

Cadiz

Yeah, BTDT. It kind of like the kill switch on a motorcycle...why won't my bike start! It's surprises me how easy it has become to inadvertently switch it to L

Shot is Raw (nef), posted image is jpg processed and exported via LR. I went to PS, just now, and set crop to 900x600x72 and saved the original, unprocessed, now 900x600, image as a png. Obviously not the best raw material to work with. I was exposing for the sky, was on a tour, lagging far behind and this is what I got. Silk purse, sow's ear could apply. @digitaldog >>"Virtually none of the on-camera settings affect the raw but would a JPEG<< Does that apply to on camera settings like Picture Controls (Nikon) Sharpening, Clarity, etc? I do not see in the manual (around pg 174) anything that says, "applies to jpeg only" or anything like that. Sorry to be ignorant on this, and appreciate the help.

thanks, again to all. @hapien Looked at the menu on the d810 and I found picture controls. I am set to "standard" and the sharpness is set to 4.5. I do not see a menu item specifically named "mid-range." I don't see it in the manual either. Online I see references to "mid-range" regarding the Z6 and 7. My menu goes from "Sharpening" to "Clarity," ie no mid-range option. On that online page though, the adjustments made seem small, in the +1, +2 to -1range. For various picture controls I see my settings are mostly 0, with sharpening though ranging from 3.5 to 5. I am curious how others have theirs set? I have always just addressed sharpening, clarity, etc in LR. Should the camera be set for zeros in all of these parameters to avoid unnecessary confusion? I shoot general stuff, mountains to portraits, astro to macro, street to stage. Settings good for astro, may not be best for street.

@ed, this is what it looks like and the resampling did not make it worse, but your point is well taken. Next time I'll do it as rec'd. To answer your perhaps rhetorical question, "why a screen capture" my answer is ignorance 8) but this is strange...I created a couple of virtual copies of the original image and could not really reproduce the halo, though when I increase exposure and decrease highlights I start to see blurriness along the edges that could with more sliders engaged, maybe become the halo. And I am embarrassed to say that if I just use the "auto" exposure button, I get where I want with no halo, even though "auto" adjusts things pretty much as I did @glenn...as I said I was using a 20 mm on a full frame, though f8. I wanted the rose sharp and the background blurred @rj, agree very strange...ghost in the machine or in the software. Or, just over-processed by the user. Thanks all, appreciate the help. Attached is the picture, using "auto." This was at the AlHambra in Granada, Spain.