ian_grandjean

<p>1) Yes<br />2) Yes<br />They don't - or they use other cameras/backs not made by VH...<br>

(Actually, there is a vertical 16-on back made by VH; but it's pretty rare...good luck in your search)<br>

<br />Sorry :-)</p>

<p><em>(I would say that adding dark slide keepers - those horrible chinese stick-on copies, or the even worse Lindahl ones - instead of adding to it, detracts from the value.)</em><br>

Sadly this is complete nonsense, as usual...this is not a factor that would make or break a deal, as the dark slide keepers can be easily removed. Furthermore, most people who actually <strong>use</strong> their Hasselblads find these things quite useful.<br>

Getting back to the thread, if you advertise the kit, make sure you take decent photographs as 99% of people ask to see images (for wear etc.)</p>

<p>I love Leica - I've even got a few - but frankly I cannot see the point of the X-1 in todays market. 1500€ (in Europe) for a digital 3 series without being able to change the lens?</p>

<p>Naturally the M9 is overpriced, despite build quality etc., but then that's Leica for you. This said, I feel sure they'll sell. Enjoy!</p>

<p>Just my 0,02c</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'd re-phrase that to "<em>J'aime à la folie</em>" if you're ever going to use it again...otherwise you might start getting strange looks from people...:-)</p>

 

<p>Careful there - didn't you know that you "<em>Have to use a prism with a 6x4,5</em>"...</p>

<p>If they're what I think they are, they are simply adjustable markers for you to 'pre set' three different focusing distances.</p>

 

<p>Doug, a thought occurs to me. You mentioned using graduated filters,<br>

"<em>I use Cokin filters too, including grads</em>"<br>

How does you make this work on a TLR please? </p>

 

<p>Erm...you high-light the text you want to link, then you click on the little 'chain' symbol in the bar above the text you're typing, and a window opens asking you to enter the URL of the link...I think!</p>

<p>(PS. The link I 'linked' was for the Zeiss bit of the PIM website)</p>

<p>If I turn on the 'tilt sensor' on my Nikon D700, all photos taken vertically are displayed vertically on the screen on the back of the camera. (Thus not filling the screen)</p>

<p>With the 'tilt sensor' off, I have to turn the camera thru 90° to see the image the right way up, but the image fills the rectangular screen.</p>

<p>How is the image displayed on the CFV/CFV-39 back if the camera is turned thru 90° when the picture was taken?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Graham</p>

<p>Whilst I understand what you're looking for, you have to remember that there are far fewer Zeiss lenses for Hasselblad than Nikkors for Nikon (For example) I've never heard of a 'bad' Hasselblad lens, and when you consider that many of the more recent variants are identical optically to their C series predecessors, I have to think that perhaps they've got something right in their lens design.</p>

<p>Obviously, some designs tend to show better contrast or resolution (See the MTF curves etc.) but I personally think it boils down to the old 'horses for courses' adage, and that it depends on your particular needs.</p>

<p>The 100mm that you own is reputed to be the finest of it's kind, but the humble 80mm Planar gives stunning results too. Perhaps if you add to your question a hint as to what type of photography you'd like to use the lens for, people here could help you with their individual opinions.</p>

<p>This said, Michael Liu and <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/hasselblad/lenses/hassel_lens_entry.htm">Photography in Malaysia </a>give a fairly good overview of Hasselblad lenses.</p>

<p>I used to have to compensate for my tilt sensor - I found Glenlivet was best - didn't do much for the tilt, but after 2 bottles the colours were simply amazing!</p>

<p>Very interesting article - many thanks for proposing it here.</p>

<p>Thanks alot everyone - it's given me serious food for thought! I'll check out what's available from my local hardware stores - I'm not worried what it looks like, just that I get even temperatures. (And Chris, thanks for the info on the pumps - it gets warm here too!!)</p>

<p>Thank you <strong>Thomas</strong> - I think perhaps my water bath is just not large enough, thus the temperature changes faster. This said, it would be nice to have a thermostatically controlled heater...</p>

<p>I live in rural France and as such, pro labs aren't on every street corner, so I process all my own films. I have difficulty maintaining exact temperatures (Particularly important for the first dev) and I'd like to know what other people do to surmount this problem?</p>

<p>I considered a fish-tank heater, but these rarely go higher than 32°C (I need 38°C) <em>presumably to avoid boiling the fish...</em>are there any other options please?</p>

<p>I am more than happy to read other peoples opinions - in this way I learn. Reading that I need a prism for a 6x4.5 camera I in fact learned something as well.</p>

<p>Well, actually two things. 1: Don't consider anything from the original poster as anything other than rubbish, and 2: That perhaps the original poster mistook this forum for his own personal soapbox.</p>

<p><em>And don't get me started on his 'rules' regarding dynamic range.....</em></p>

<p>This <em><strong>can</strong></em> be a fun place to exchange information - let's try to keep it that way.</p>

<p><em>"The C330 is in fact a couple of 100 grams heavier" </em><br>

A: REALLY useful information (Also the idea of someone actually weighing camera gear amuses me ... "Oh, give me 500 grammes of Mamiya would you...")</p>

<p>and B:</p>

<p>How much IS a couple of 100 grammes?</p>

<p>Rubbish Q.G.</p>

<p>Thank so much Russ, I was a little worried about this too, but didn't dare ask here. (I did ask on the "wachine machine" forum but I'm still waiting for a reply)<br>

What a relief.... :-)</p>

<p>Is the colour important?</p>

<p>I agree with you - but what I was really asking was who invented the 'rule' that one <em>has</em> to use a prism - seems to me a WLF is perfectly adequate for many applications...</p>

<p>I read somewhere in a recent post that "<em>Bear in mind too that you do need a prism on a 6x4.5 camera.</em>" and I'd like to know why please?</p>

<p><em>"Bear in mind too that you do need a prism on a 6x4.5 camera."</em></p>

<p>Why?</p>

<p>I use lens caps, so don't believe <em>anything</em> I say as I'm obviously not a 'real' photographer...however, I had the same questions as the original poster, and eventually purchased a D700 - never looked back.<br>

I don't care what anyone says, it produces superb images, and I'm more than satisfied with the quality - the only downside is that it shows that I can't compose for toffee!!</p>

<p>This is an interesting thread - however, I find it remarkable (But not really surprising) that a self professed experts comes out with something like:<br>

<em>"The MF look, and its greater tonality (not smooth, but - compared to 35 mm format - very detailed) is due to the larger format. Not to dynamic range."</em><br>

It has everything to do with <strong>dynamic range</strong> - for instance, the ability of the 'larger' format film to resolve a greater dynamic range. Or perhaps this is a new concept that needs discussion?</p>