dpbours

<p>@Jay,</p>

<p>I do speak German (being Dutch), but I have to apologize that I can't really write it...</p>

<p>But I searched for Jobo spare part lists on the Jobo site and looking at the parts that can be replaced on different models and being an electronics engineer from background, I have a good guess of which part will be critical and which one not towards using a transformer.<br>

The difference between the CPP and CPA have already been discussed on various forums and the spare part lists reflect that this discussion is correct.</p>

 

<p>@jay.</p>

<p>CPP-2 or CPA-2;<br>

The CPP2 has a cold water solenoid. I'm not sure if that is DC. If it is, no problems. If it is not, I do not think that a water cooler is very frequency sensitive.<br>

Yes, looked it up; Both units have 2 parts that are AC; The pump motor (of the cold water solenoid I assume) and the heating element. These are typically 110v / 220v. And both elements are not so sensitive to the 50Hz - 60 Hz discussion and will not have a big impact on your operating.<br>

There are some differences in the rotation motor over time, but it's DC. No worries.<br>

The other differences are all cosmetic (different way of dialing in temperature, different thermometer, LED display and different thermometer accuracy).</p>

<p>Here a test of the 2.0 III new teleconverter. With prime lenses as well as the 70-200 VRii.<br />http://www.naturalart.ca/artist/fieldtests/tc_series3.html<br /><br />More test shots on the TC2.0 III with the 70-200 VRii:<br />http://www.fotografie.fr/fotoforum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=576#p2058<br />http://www.fotografie.fr/fotoforum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=577#p2071<br /><br />At the bottom of the last link you will find various links to test shots under various conditions. <br />Very interesting to see the performance and I might be considering getting rid of my 80-400mm VR now...</p>

<p>@Frank.<br>

I think it's good to collect as much opinions and then make your own choice. It's up to everyone to value everyone's results in using the teleconverter and make their own choice on whose opinion is important and whose is of lesser importance...</p>

<p>There are already quite some threads on the combination of the VRii and teleconverters. And the VRii performs well with the new teleconverters. See here for some threads:<br>

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00W4o6<br>

"I have also tested version 2 + the TC-20E and it is similar to the 200-400mm/f4 AF-S at 400mm."<br>

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00VhlF</p>

<p>And here one on Dpreview: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1030&message=34649376</p>

<p>Wow, I just watched a trailer of MacGruber. Jeez, I didn't think it could get any worse than McGiver, but it can! :-)</p>

<p>The extended durations would be true if timers and motors are AC. But the Jobo also operates on a battery and the following link shows the motor speed controller being fully DC:<br>

http://tech-diy.com/jobo.htm</p>

<p>As such, the CPE-2 and CPE-2 Plus operate fully on DC and you do not need to worry about the frequency. Just get a cheap voltage converter with the appropriate power value as I indicated before.</p>

<p>Don't worry about the frequencies. Equipment is built to be able to accept a range of both incoming voltage and frequency. I mean, your Jobo processor does not only run on 110V / 60Hz. It runs on anything between 105 - 120 V / 50 - 60 Hz.</p>

<p>Just go to the local electronics store and get a voltage converter. The only thing you need to worry about is the power needed. Voltage converters are always rated at the Watts they are able to deliver on the output of the conversion.<br /> Get a converter that gives 25-30% more output than the maximum Power need of your Jobo. If the Jobo says it needs 75 Watts, get a converter that does 100 Watts. It's best that such converters are not always operated at their maximum capacity, since the transformer will heat up and the heat will impact the performance.</p>

<p>Hope it helps.</p>

<p>But if you remove the cog it won't rotate in the processor either...<br>

Or you're not using a processor unit at all?! The way you're writing it is like you use the processor but prefer not to let it drain by itself...</p>

 

<p>When your darkroom is not in need of cooling or heating is <em>the</em> most wonderful time of the year?! :-)</p>

<p>The Nikkor 24 - 85 is nice if you do street shooting, some macros and not that many portraits. I felt it was too soft for portraits and the focus was a tad slow. Sometimes you needed to focus twice to have it spot on if it were to focus over a longer distance.</p>

<p>I tested the Tokina 12-24 on my previous D200. The Tokina had good sharpness, but profound vignetting - which is easily corrected in Photoshop. Good lens. I liked it, but in the end saved the money for something better that I could still use on a full frame camera later on.</p>

<p>Photozone evaluated this lens:<br>

http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/313-sigma-af-17-70mm-f28-45-dc-nikon-review--lab-test-report</p>

<p>It's surely a good lens, but the extreme corners only become reasonably sharp > f/5.6.<br>

As work horse I now use the Nikon 18-35mm 3.5 - 4.5 (used mostly around f/11 for landscapes) and the Sigma 24-70 2.8 for any other type of shot. The Sigma 24-70 has good sharpness from f/4 onwards.<br>

If you need a work horse on a DX camera, get the Nikkor AF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 G IF-ED DX. You'll find them second hand these days as well and they are surely worth the money. The sharpness is much better than the Sigma 17-70:<br>

http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/231-nikkor-af-s-17-55mm-f28-g-if-ed-dx-review--test-report</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Greg,</p>

<p>To me it sounds like a problem with the Multi-CAM3500FX Auto Focus sensor and the way it displays information in the viewfinder more than a problem with the viewfinder itself. My best bet would be to bring it in for repairs...</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>That is very interesting!</p>

<p>You will have no problems finding a store selling the 18-200 VR I at Suvernabhumni airport. I'm not sure about VR II though. Thailand is not that fast in offering newer versions - which is strange because Nikon has a factory in the Northern outskirts of BKK.</p>

<p>If you are in the airport behind the passport control, you have shops on various levels. It's the same area for transit as for normal entrance for a flight. There is only one level where you can walk on from left to right. The other two levels you'll be bumping into gate access somewhere mid-way. As such, if you think you can't make it to the other side of the airport, try it on the next level.<br>

http://www.suvarnabhumiairport.com/king_power_shopping_en.php</p>

<p>Basically, two branches of electronics shops have several shops in various parts of the airport shopping area. Next to that, you'll find some accessoiries and gadgets shops also selling some camera equipment. All in all, quite some shops, but in the end of 3 or 4 branches. So a quick compare is easy.</p>

<p>You can give up on Yangon though. Nothing there. The only thing I saw for sale there was an F3 in a deplorable state hahaha. At an 'antique' store.</p>

<p>Cheers from Bangkok.</p>

<p>I'm not sure about the question... The Solmeta works on a D90 as well.</p>

<p>Or you mean using a Garmin with cables on a D90? Got quite some links on the D200 though for which lots of cables are produced and I just see they also produce a cable now for D90:<br>

http://www.pc-mobile.net/nikongps-cable.htm<br>

Have a look at the compatibility table: http://www.pc-mobile.net/nikon-gps.htm</p>

<p>Here are some reviews I found of taggers:<br>

GP1: http://johnbiehler.com/2009/01/04/nikon-gp-1-gps-review/<br>

Phottix: http://johnbiehler.com/2009/06/02/phottix-geo-one-gps-review/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Keep it. You don't get rid of your first love... I got rid of mine and got a second hand F5 back. That was a lucky buy, but I still miss the old camera when I see myself as a little kid in pictures with that camera....</p>

 

<p>I use the GP Recyco, because they keep a minimal charge if you put them away for a longer time.<br>

They give a good balance between recycle time and number of flashes and get warm but not hot.</p>

<p>Batteries being hot is something I have as well.<br>

How many shots can you do with a fresh pack of batteries? Honestly, most of the batteries won't see tomorrow when shooting a wedding. But if you say you need to change every 100 flashes, that would be excessive...</p>

<p>Cheers, Dennis</p>

 

<p>Yup, a heavy beast with the MF-24 - though balanced a bit differently ;-)</p><div></div>

<p>That depends heavily on how your flash reacts to settings on your camera.</p>

<p>Some cameras change the flash exposure setting when connected and the camera exposure settings are changed. With some combinations you can set both independently and the effect on your outcome will differ. I wouldn't know how either, and I would love to hear the answer.</p>

<p>Found an interesting source on CanonEOS with flash, but quite some things are generally applicable I guess: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/<br>

Here some test shots with Exposure Compensation (EC) versus Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC):<br>

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=64619<br>

And another example: http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/ebooks/Beechers_Handouts/21c_flash_exposure_compensation.htm</p>

<p>I think FEC has an effect on the subject the flash reflects on, EC in camera has an effect on the total picture. That will probably be the bottom line. If your background which is not hit by the flash is too dark or light, you'll adjust the incamera EC. If the foreground element is too light, but the background is okay, you will adjust the FEC. This will only impact the part which is hit by the flash...</p>

<p>That might be it, I guess. And I do agree with your discussion on film/digital. I still learn most from working with my F5 and not my D700.</p>

<p>Project them with an LCD projector on a white sheet on the wall... You can even sequence them, don't even need to print them for it (maybe scan them) and an LCD projector is very reusable...</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>@Dwight</p>

<p>That is an interesting little programme! Though I'm not sure how to interpret the data.<br>

If i'm shooting my 70-200, I use it 95% in the range 160-200mm.<br>

If i'm shooting my 80-400, I use it over the entire range...<br>

Hmmm... I probably use the 70-200 more in combination with the 24-70, so change lenses. And when I go with the 80-400, I normally put two small primes in the bag... What does that tell me? :-)</p>

<p>I use the 105 DC for such portraits. It is slow, but it's not that with that type of photography I need a fast lens. If I need to isolate people in a crowd, I would still use the 24-70. I don't mind that much to be close to people. I still love the 50 1.4 as a portrait lens on the D700. But it's a small lens, not so in the face of your subject.</p>

<p>I'm actually surprised how my I use my 14-24mm...</p>

<p>But you're right. A decent landscape I'll either do with multiple portrait mode shots and my 24-70, or on 6x6 film...</p>