james_barber4

Took the Pentax 67ii on a trip up the heartland. Film was Catlabs 80 at ASA 100, developed in HC110 Vents Hotel Sunflower Coal Church Eagle Park

Hi everyone. All the following were taken with a Yashica Electro GSN on Fomapan 400, developed in Tmax. S Gas Pump Coffee Shop

Kodak Retina IIIc in Fuji Acros II, Tmax Developer New Orleans Lamps Matador Oak Alley Grand Theater

Yeah, I've googled pretty deep, I've found a few repair guides and manuals, but its not something I want to delve into just yet. Rather send it to someone who knows what they are doing. Thanks for the suggestion Bruce, I will contact him and see what he says.

Hello, I've come across a Voitlander Vitessa with the barn doors and it has a frame spacing issue. The images aren't overlapping, but there is no space between the frames. Is this something that can be fixed and if so, who would you recommend? It's not that that big a deal, I just have to be careful cutting negatives, but it is annoying and I worry that it's going to get worse and start overlapping. So who works on a Vitessa for a CLA and repair?

Nevermind, I found it. Thanks!

The language settings on this Nex-7 was accidentally changed from English to Japanese and all the menu setting are now in Japanese - meaning I can't find how to change it back to English. If a Nex-7 owner can provide me where the location to change it, I would appreciate it. I can get to the settings, but I don't know how far down from the top to scroll. Thanks in advance.

Hey Joe, thanks for the info. It is like that one. Seems to work well, I just tested some LF shutters on it using the steps you provided. Would you happen to know why there is an indicator bulb next to the calibration knob? That's what threw me, I've tried a number of different things and the bulb doesn't come on. However, it seems to work just fine so I not complaining, just wondering.

I've come up with a camlogix shutter tester from an estate and there was no instructions included. Google has not been helpful, so I'm asking the community to see if anyone has the instructions they can send me, or at least tell me how to calibrate it. Thanks.

Nikon F2 with either 50mm f2 or a Soligor C/D 28mm f2 on Tmax 100 in Tmax developer..

All done with Yashica Electro 35, Fomapan 400 in Tmax. Test roll to make sure camera is functioning correctly after having to disassemble it. Crest Theater . Water towers in Pratt Trailers Leaning house

No, pretty sure I didn't use just water.. It is opaque. I wonder if I got mixed up with the 1st and 2nd developers somehow. I definitely put the blix step in.

I've been developing film from an Arista E-6 kit. First batch came out fine, second one failed. A roll of Fuji Sensia and Kodak EPP both have no images and no identifying letters. So, the questions is, what did I mess up? Attached is a photo of the Fuji film on a light board, but the Kodak looks the same. Mixed yesterday, processed in a Jobo machine so the temperatures are correct. Chemical contamination maybe? Thanks for your insight...

Sorry, I am using a jobo drum that will hold 1000ml, as that is the limit of the rotary motor. So I was planning on using the whole 946ml..

Thank you all for the replies. I am trying to do three rolls at once in the full quart, then do another three in the used chemical, then the last couple rolls before I get rid of the chemical just as a time saving measure. However, as I think about it, if I do two at a time then I won't be saving all that much time, I will have to do four batches instead of three. Maybe I'd better just stick with two at a time until I can get more familiar with the process.

So I've got some slide film to develop and I don't do this everyday, so my knowledge is limited. In the instructions, it gives a formula for every two rolls that you have to extend the first developer time. My question is, if I can fit three rolls in my Jobo tank at a time, do I need to compensate for have 3 instead of 2 rolls? In the past I have only done batches in 2 rolls, according to the instructions. What happens if I move to 3 at a batch, or am I making a mountain out of a molehill?

Thank you for the advice, I will try with the rubber cement.

So my lovely little Electro 35 G suffered the "Pad of Death" when I acquired it. I had done a small fix the easy way, but it didn't hold and then had a mechanical issue to boot and ended up pulling the shutter/lens assembly to fix it properly. I've got it all back together, and now it seems to be working properly, except that the battery check button doesn't illuminate. The exposure over/under lights work and the shutter seems to adjust to the light, but no check light. No doubt this is due to my terrible soldering skills. I'll recheck that particular circuit at a later date. So my question is, what type of glue do you use to reattach the leather cover? I would prefer something not permanent, in case it has to come apart again, but good enough to hold it reasonably. I do use the original leather case, so that should help, but is there a glue that is preferred by the experts?

Put new light seals and replaced the "pad of death" on a newly acquired Yashica Electro 35, this is part of the test images from that endeavor. Morning sun with a yellow filter, Tmax 100 in Tmax Developer. Barn and Details

Well, still trying HP5+ in HC110. Last week shot in dilution B, trying it in dilution H this time. Nikon F100. Chair and Sign Route 66 Dock on White River Harley the Eccentric

I don't know, to be honest. More people are shooting film than anyone has in years, including a younger generation that did not grow up with film, which seems to have the money to chase both equipment and film itself. I don't want to get into a discussion about the resurgence in film, as I think it is a mixed blessing. But there is no doubt more people are shooting film than at anytime since the mid 2000s. Is it a fad? Who knows. But the gear and film getting scooped up at ridiculous prices, the amount of people talking about "them tones" and "that grain" on the social media, and the amount of people deliberately seeking out expired/older film for aesthetic reasons shows that there is undeniable interest in it right now, Hence the wide amount of brands and types of film available. I remember when we were all scared film was going to go away. Now I'm just scared I can't afford any of it.

Hi all, been a long time. Never shot HP5+ before and a person told me I just had to try it... Shot in a Nikon F100 and developed in HC110(H), Massive Dev Chart time minus 15% for the Jobo. Scanned on V700. So, I don't know if I over-processed the film or if HP+ doesn't play well with HC110, but I do not much care for the grain of the film, or how dense it is. Dent Corner Store Grain on grain Derelict House Elevator

Just developed a roll from back in April. Expired Velvia 100 with a Pentax 67ii, straight scanned with V700. I noticed I am having some problems focusing with the beast.

Pentax 67ii in Kodak E100.