john_mcferren
-
Posts
32 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by john_mcferren
-
-
<p>For scanning simply treat a Polaroid like a print (except Polapan and Polachrome obviously). For Instax 600 dpi is about the highest resolution you need to scan.</p>
-
<p>Delta 3200 is actually faster than Kodak TMZ. Kodak TMZ was actually ISO 800 prior to pushing, Delta 3200 is around the 1000 to 1250 range. While Delta 3200 is capable of being pushed to EI 25000 per the datasheet Ilford recommends test exposures and provides the development times in two developers. I'm sorry I am of no more help beyond reading the datasheet, but that should give you some hope.</p>
-
<p>Try black and white film too. Black and White is a completely different ballgame. I like it in the way that it provides an instant classic look and sometimes you can't tell if the picture was taken last week or 60 years ago. It may not be for you though. If you want to try Black and White but don't want the expense of true black and white processing get a roll of Ilford XP2 Super. Think of shooting your Supera 400 but getting a black and white image. Same speed and same processing, but I'd give the lab a heads up that the images should be black and white because sometimes there is a color tint in the scanning and printing process.<br>
Don't be afraid to shoot slide film either. The price is off putting, but you can still have it printed (most color work is scan then print anyway these days), plus you have slides you can actually project. Slide film is EXPENSIVE though.</p>
-
<p>Could be the sensor or the IR filter in that case. That looks like what happens when the sensor is burned from too much light. There is a YouTube user that had similar looking dots caused by laser damage to the camera. As a matter of course for an expensive DSLR I would look into dirt and other abnormalities before blaming the sensor/IR filter.</p>
-
<p>Sounds like it is push to start. If that is the case it is preheat as holding the switch allows it to start. Hold the switches until the ends glow white then release. Since these are T12 24 inch lamps, you don't have to worry about them being discontinued. You would want to got Chroma 50 bulbs (GE), Colortone 50 (Philips), or Design 50 (Sylvania lamps). Try replacing the lamps and for the love of god don't use "Daylight" as those are 1940's formulas and put out horrible light near 6500k.</p>
-
<p>It uses the standard C-41 process, even your local minilab can do it.</p>
-
<p>Thanks for the tips, but John O. brought up Fluorescent. I guess that would be left for experimentation in Will's post. John O's ideas would work if it was fluorescent covered with a gel, but my understanding of fluorescent (which is very accurate) is that instead of going from white to a color (actually going from UV fluoresces to white then filtered to color) they generate the color directly in the phosphor (UV fluoresces to color). Very interesting, the only thing I have right now that has any kind of manual white balance is my camcorder, I guess I will take it out and mess around with it some day with this.</p>
-
<p>This question started pestering me a few minutes ago when I was reading a thread in film and processing about photographing a concert using available light. My question is what color balance should I use for photographing colored light bulbs or subject lit by colored bulbs and get a color close to what is seen? Since colored bulbs use a tungsten source, should I use a tungsten color balance or should I use daylight. My question applies to both film, digital, and video; so any answers for using automatic white balance are out the window since I want this to apply to film as well.</p>
-
<p>From what I have read you just use the kodak gold channel. Kodak designs most of their C41 films to use the Kodak Gold Color Channel.</p>
-
<p>Oops system crashed, let me try and attach that picture again.</p><div>
</div>
-
<p>Hmm, if it is only that old, try it at rated speed or maybe a stop overexposed (400 ASA). I just recently had a film processed that was shot in 2001-2003 and it had a magenta shift, but that is probably due to the age of the latent images. The film expired in 2001. The image attached is from the "Originals" Folder on the Wal-Mart Photo CD so I believe that it is either un-retouched or barely retouched.</p>
-
<p>Film is likely junk (expired), shouldn't have any problems processing the film, but if there are images, the printer will not know what type of film it is and cannot set the correct color parameters. Again your film is likely junk.</p>
-
<p>I have to close my right eye, if I were to close my left eye, the eyelid in my right eye follows too closely and is unusable, while when I close my right eye, the left eyelid does not follow as much and it is usable. Also when I close my left eye, my right eye not only closes partially it loses focus. I can actually use the computer with the right one closed, but not the left. Covering my left eye with my hand does not cause this problem.</p>
-
<p>Yeah, I haven't heard of the 400B either, but from what I have read about out of date Polaroid film it could get real messy. Remember with Polaroid not only is the film outdated, but so are the processing chemicals.</p>
-
<p>It looks like it was burned, it seems to be similar effect to what would happen if movie film stops in a projector. It could have been a manufacturing or processing defect, but the brown sure indicates a physical burn.</p>
-
<p>Interesting effect, if you want to go to a true black and white, just run a quick desaturation based on luminosity and you get a true b&w picture back.</p>
-
<p>I just got the roll back today, the color shifts are bad, but I can correct that digitally. The pictures were older than I thought though. But I knew the film expiration date.</p>
-
<p>I find number two a little too bright, but If I didn't see number one or the scene itself I would not likely be able to tell.</p>
-
<p>Sometimes Kodak Cameras use a slower shutter speed for some reason than you think they would need to. Not to bash Kodak, both my Mom and I have Kodak digital cameras. Always hold the camera steady or better yet use a tripod in the night program mode.</p>
-
<p>The DR5 processes black and white film in a way that it becomes a reversal film, so that process does not apply to color.</p>
-
<p>These programs work on one simple principle. When a file is deleted only the information telling you where the file is stored is actually erased. In any case your best bet is to immediately discontinue use of the media and run the recovery. With flash media if you write a file or two afterward you should still be okay due to the way the wear leveling works. The recovery program simply looks for the actual file on the media and not at the file allocation table the operating system uses. When you recover the file (even in perfect condition) you will lose the first character of the file name. Whatever you do, never format the media, unformatting hasn't been around since about MS-DOS version 6.22.</p>
-
<p>I think the removal of the fourth color layer was a packaging thing, the Fuji datasheets still show that no filter is required for cool white fluorescent and if I remember correctly, the function of the fourth color layer was to allow for proper response under cool white fluorescent lights.</p>
-
<p>Thank you for all the information.</p>
-
<p>You will also learn that there are many answers to James' question that will produce a correct exposure. You will also know how to determine these answers. For example F8 at 1/1000th of a second would work, that's not the answer he was probably looking for, but it is one of many correct answers. In order to narrow the answers down he would have had to specify more conditions than the speed of the film the lighting and the subject.</p>
ballast and bulbs for light box (for slide viewing)
in Lighting Equipment
Posted