paul_taylor2

Thanks to all. I've downloaded the factory guide and a firmware update.

Recommendations for an independent user guide, preferably in book format. Just purchased a D3s without the factory manual. I'll probably figure out 90% of what I need, but I'd like to have a well written guide as well.

<p>I am in need of an infinity lock, the button and screw, if any, for my Elmar 50/3.5. Does anyone have an old "junk" lens that could act as a donor?<br>

Possibly from a Summaron, also.<br>

I'll gladly pay for the item and shipping (in the United States).<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>First vist to this city and would like to add to my night and early morning collection of great cities. <br>

Any suggestions as to sites and locations? Interest in architecture and markets, maybe public squares as well.</p>

 

<p>Settling an estate and have a potential buyer. Need an estimate or range of values.<br>

A leather-cased super - Technika IV with three lenses, backs, masks, etc.<br>

Body, the bellows is intact;<br>

Symmar 105/5.6<br>

Tele-Arton 180/5.5<br>

Super Angulon 65/8 - all lenses are mint optics and very light signs or use;<br>

Super Rollex back<br>

contoured grip and cable release<br>

4 - VF masks<br>

2 - sheetfilm backs <br>

Fitted leather case with keys<br>

Instruction manuals<br>

Many thanks for any and all opinions.</p>

<p>Helm runs floatplanes out of Long Lake, which is about an hour south of Lake Placid. He'll take you anywhere, same as his father took me in the 60's.<br>

North of Lake Placid, you can drive, chairlift or hike Whiteface Mountain.<br>

The trails throughout the Adirondacks are very well marked and maintained. Degree of difficulty is noted in the guidebooks, and some are considered flat and are very easy walks.<br>

Have a great time!</p>

<p>Are others doing your printing? My preferred lab closed its second location, so I tried a competitor. The results were terrible.<br>

If you are confident that your equipment is operating correctly, look at your negatives with a high quality loupe, then check with your printer or lab.</p>

<p>Many thanks to you both for your responses.<br>

I hesitate to drive into the city due to the congestion and expense of parking. When in Toronto, I usually park at one of the train stations along the QEW, and train it into Union Station. Does Montreal benefit by such park-and-ride locations as well?</p>

<p>My wife's brother is the most obnoxious person on earth. And he is coming to town in mid-February. <br>

<em>I'm outta here!!!!</em><br>

Never have I been to Montreal and I think that now is the time. I just want to come to town, have some great food - where the locals eat, drink some wine, and take a few pictures. <br>

I live near Buffalo, NY, where weather is never a reason to stay in. Am I crazy to think that the weather will be worse in your fair city? Any thoughts on where to eat and what to see? Recommeded to leave the car at one of the outlying train stations, and rely on the underground to get around? Are tripods allowed in your churches and other public buildings (not during services, of course)?<br>

Your thoughts will be welcomed.</p>

 

<p>Wait, camping in February? You're kidding, right? I'm dying to go when the weather improves, but before the tour buses arrive. Also need a graduated ND filter....<br>

Have a good trip.</p>

<p>I've had the 803 bag for approximately fifteen years and have been very happy with it. Sand in color, the only notable wear is the small strap piece at the bottom, which holds the round metal closure. Easily replaced if, and when, it breaks. It has no corner wear, tears or other wardrobe malfunctions. Somehow, I've kept the canvas reasonably clean. I have other bags, but still use this most often; it holds as much as I want to stuff into it, and does not scream "camera" like the Billingham and Fogg, or even some of the lesser brands. <br>

Still using Nikon F bodies and the older, heavier AI and NAI metal lenses, any larger bag would be heavy after my 15-18 hour days while on tour. I recently purchased a 500CM, 50 and 150 lenses and extra back. It will handle this MF kit including extra padding in the bottom. When open and lying on a flat surface, the inside of the lid makes a good pad for changing lenses or film, in case what I am holding is fumbled. I'm thinking of trying some lens wraps/squares, as an alternative to the inserts. <br>

Last trip overseas, I hand carried a much larger bag which was packed to the gills, leaving the empty Domke in with my checked suitcase. When touring, I carried the smaller bag with what I wanted to use for the day. Worked out quite well.<br>

I've heard that the newer bags are not as well made, and it seems that some knockoffs are appearing from Hong Kong. I'd buy used to get the original bag, if I had to do over again. Highly recommended.</p>

 

I wish someone would bring this formula back. I used it for my childrens' photos twenty years ago - they look like they were shot on 6X6. No grain, period. On a sunny or partly sunny day, you can shoot at 1/100 (Barnack Leica), f/8 or 5.6, which are prime f-stops for most early and modern lenses.

 

Not everyone uses digital or PHD cameras.

I am a new 500cm user, and after four rolls, love it. As old-school as you can get without going to a view camera. This is the outfit I dreamt about since shooting the high school yearbook in the early '70s. I was using Kenmore West's (near Buffalo, NY) beat up Canon FT with a crummy zoom, and my own Nikkormat. The Hassy was the camera to have, and all those cool accessories.... Alas, no money. College, marriage, three kids, pointe shoes, their college, mortgage payments - you've all likely been there.

 

For about $2,000, I have a late cm body, two backs, 50 and 150 CF lenses, hoods, Wildi's book and a quick release tripod mount. The results have been beyond my expectations. Lots of pop to the 5x5 prints that come from a pro lab. The mirror release/slap/noise is something to get used to. Maybe not a great travel outfit but a must for the Grand Canyon in 2009.

 

Relevant? A dinosour by modern standards, but a testament to fine engineering. It forces you to think more about your composition, exposure and the fine tuning a good photograph requires. Old-school may not be for everyone, but is for me.

 

Not to hijack the post, but what I want next is to post on p.net and Flickr, and create a web site for the extended family. Lost as to what equipment to buy next, but the above information is helpful. Am I going to have to upgrade to a Mac or the latest Windows nightmare? How much memory, size of hard drive? Photoshop or something else? The cost of all this will decrease, while the quality is sure to increase. But the 500 can still be the basis of a very usable system when coupled to the right scanner and software.

Early '90s, attended an estate sale at a very modest home. The camera equipment being offered was being held back from the sale until a "camera appraiser" had inspected the lot, and he was not expected until late afternoon. I was offered a look and found: an enlarger in the Leitz style but not labeled as such, a generic copy stand and some torn operating manuals. Things began to look up when I then found a mint FULDY and magnifier, a LTM 90 Elmar with minor corrosion and a 35mm d'ode LTM. Lastly, a grey IIICk, grey vulcan cover, "K" on the second curtain, and Summitar. The lettering on the body had yellowed, but paint was virtually untouched. Body had been adapted for the SELSY flash, also included, which bore the same serial no. as the body. $600 for the whole lot, before the appraiser arrived.

Is it possible that Hasselblad enlarged the size of its clips for the more modern cameras? The larger opening of the clip still is too small, and a "D" shape rather than fully round to fit over the lug. Sending it back to Columbus Camera.

 

Thanks all, for your input.

How the bloody hell do you attach the strap? Having figured out the Leica system, this one stumps me.

 

The strap nor its lugs has any VH markings, just a small "C" clamp attached by two rivits on each lug. The body's

mounting points appear too large to snap the strap into place.

Read the response, Jeff. Did not say it was a good photo, but that how a very simple lens designed over sixty years ago can produce a sharp image.

All, look at the sharpness in the picture of Paul's daughters. Astounding to think how old some of those lenses now are, and how simple and sturdy their design.

 

My lens has light surface corrosion and a slightly tight focus. But it's gonna get used this weekend with some Ilford Pan 50 film.

 

Gotta get a flatbed scanner.

Okay, the slide works correctly when I pull and slide it. Auto- and stop-down modes both work correctly.

 

The pre-release mode functions correctly at exposures of 1/15th or longer; the shutter stays closed until it is released. At 1/30th and all shorter or faster exposures, the shutter also opens. The Waldi book doesn't make this distinction so this appears to be a malfunction. Logically, I would assume that exposures at lower speeds - 1/30th and 1/60th, would benefit from the lack of vibration, which I understand the prelease function is designed to provide.

 

Thanks, both, for your answers.

First time user of a CF lens, purchased used. Two potential problems requiring expertise. First, the depth of field

slide does not operate; lens operates only in the stopped-down position. The slide does not move, to return to the

auto-diaphram setting.

 

Second, the pre-release function on the camera body also opens the shutter. Removing the back and looking

through the barn doors, the shutter also opens, when it should not, and also shows that the blades are not fully

formed in the usual shooting or picture-taking position.

 

Using a C lens, the pre-release function operates properly.

I used a Nikkormat Ftn from '71 to the late 90s and found it to be extremely durable. Better in low light as the meter indicator shows in the frame, backlit by the scene (compare to the Nikon Ftn.

 

Lenses to consider: 85/1.8 for portraits, 35/2 or 2.8 for your general lens and a 28/3.5, which is incredibly cheap and plentiful on ebay. Look for the older (60s and early 70s) non-AI lenses with the metal scalloped focusing ring, which are lower priced than the modern AIS.

 

For your ebay search, try the following: (Nikon,nikkormat,nikomat,nikormat) (f,tn,ftn) . This will pull all of the bodies for each of the named variations. Add to this:(outfit,collection,kit,system) , and you might find a system from one seller that includes everything you want.

 

At $400, you might find two bodies, the 85 and the 35. Add the 20-24-or 28 later on. Don't bother with the zooms; two bodies will give you the flexibility you need.

Drew: You caught the first picture just as Karsh did when he photographed Sir Winston Churchill. Grabbed the cigar out of his mouth and, well, you remember the resulting picture.

 

With all due respect to your wife, she, and my children, have put up with alot over the years.

I recall some old advice for B&W: overexpose and underdevelop, for better detail in the shadows. Try a half stop over, and 20-30 seconds less of development time.

Outdoor, bright-sunny, bright under high clouds. Two different labs. Colors washed out, yellow cast, unpleasing to the eye.

 

Again, has anyone tried different warming or cooling filters?

Results in color negative have been cold, un-natural color. Can this be

countered by a warming filter?